20 week old cockerel attacked almost 3 year old daughter

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Thechickenchick2

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we have some Asian Blacks that up to now we’ve really enjoyed. They’re a bit flighty but really no complaints. We have two cockerels but with our amount of girls it’s appropriate. One of the cockerels is obviously more dominant and very recently started to get a little brave around me. He isn’t babied by any means and is not over handled. When we got home yesterday he was free ranging the yard (he jumped the fence in their run) which I don’t typically care about. I warned my overly confident daughter to beware of him as I felt I couldn’t trust him anymore and as I was rounding up the other girls that got out of the run he was viciously attacking my almost 3 year old. She’s now terrified of ALL of the chickens which is so unlike her and I’m pissed. I know that it’s in their nature and he didn’t do anything I wasn’t already anticipating ... I was well aware of the risks but no less disappointed

What I really want to know is if there’s any recovering from this? Or can we expect him to do this as long as he isn’t sizzling on the stove in our Sunday sauce...
 
I have not known aggressive cockerels to become less aggressive once they’ve attacked. Sorry to hear about that- we’ve had some go after our kids before, and it is very stressful. My kids have bounced back from the experiences, though, and are not afraid of the chickens as they were after the incidents. It just took some time.
 
I use a small swich and give them a smack in the butt. Any side stepping & I follow him around guiding him and taping at him if they try anything while I do that I have an empty coffee can to toss at them. I had 15 roos at once. The only reason i culled them was they were hard on my ducks
 
I personally want nothing to do with rehabilitating him. My husband “loves” the cockerels and doesn’t want them to be soup or sauce if they don’t need to be. I want him gone. I am just trying to educate myself as much as possible on this before I really put up a fight to have him culled. I suggested we could either get rid of him or eat him and he said that he would be the first bird we’d eat if it came to that. I’m highly frustrated with the situation and merely because the confidence in my daughter is dulled at the moment. As I said, I don’t blame the bird and I understand it was a risk I took. I just want the situation handled and to not stress that he got out and will sneak up on us, the goats, dogs or either one of our toddlers. I had to kick him to get him off of my daughter. Luckily at the moment he doesn’t have any spurs due to his age but if we were to keep him it would only get worse... ugh.
 
Get rid of him, generally the attacks will get worse, and he will begin to attack more people. They generally attack kids, then women, then men.

A lot depends on your set up, but I would be ready to cull the second rooster too. The second rooster is apt to become more aggressive, when the first one is removed. When you are 3 you are of a prime height to take an attack to the face. By the time a kid is 5-6 years old, they are bigger.

Roosters are a crap shoot, some work, some do not. The best way of keeping roosters is with a sharp knife, you need to go into roosters with a strong recognition that this bird might not fit in your flock and have to be culled.

There are nice roosters. If you are determined to have a rooster, find a nice one. Get rid of any that are not. There will be others that will post about retraining them, but once he attacked, and was the winner....they have a very small brain, and a huge amount of hormones. In my opinion, not worth risking a child’s eyes, or facial scares, or terror for a bird. I strongly recommend removing all the roosters until your child is older.
 
An aggressive rooster around a three-year-old? NO WAY! Send him away - or to freezer camp.

To help your daughter get over her fear of all chickens, give her a soda can with a couple of pebbles duct-taped into it. Better yet, let her help you make it. She can shake it to chase away any chickens that get too close. Just be sure to teach her that it's a "scare-away" tool, not a toy, and that it's not just something to make the chickens do funny dances for her.

I actually used that with my cats, too, when they got up on the counter. It was much more effective than the usual squirt-gun treatment - and much less messy!
 
Your child is in danger, and there's no way that situation should continue! There's also no way that any three year old can cope with a bird like this! Forget about 'retraining' because at best, he'll only respect the individual adult who copes with him best.
He'd be gone today if he lived here!
Rehoming a bird who attacks children is just wrong too.
Mary
 
You have other cockerels? That bad boy would immediately be introduced to a culling broom and crock pot if he were in my flock. And, personally, I don't think you should keep any cockerels unless they are confined to a coop/run that they can't escape. yes, you can let them out to free range when it's your choice to do so. BUT, your daughter should be free to play in her own yard without having to look over her shoulder.

When my grand children are here, I keep the kids in the front yard. The roo is wary of the kids, so he keeps his hens in the back yard. Problem solved... for now. However, I'm always on high alert for any subtle changes in the roo's behavior.

You've already seen that with your cockerel becoming more bold around you. That initial dose of bold is him testing the waters, to see if he can take you out. He's been sizing you up. He saw your daughter as a perfect opportunity to hone his dominance skills. A human aggressive roo will almost always start with the weaker humans, then work his way up.

Stand firm. Tell your husband that the health of your child is not worth the life of any cockerel. If it was a dog that attacked your child, would you keep the dog? Thankfully, your child is not physically injured... now. But, would it be worth it for her to go through life with a scar on her face? Or worse?

If you do get rid of the bad boy, and decide to keep one of the other cockerels, you must immediately start training them. Here's a post by my friend @Beekissed to get you started in the right direction:

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
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