2018 Newbie Chat!

[llombardo]

@Anna Ranieri Could you use a caribeaner clip through the lock spot? Instead of s lock with a key? That's what we use on our gates.

This is what I use. I have two on duck house door and each door of the coop. Then I have one on the gate and nest box area.

 

[CannedMonster]

Thank you, as always this is very good advice.
The lock is on the run door not on the hutch - I have it to keep my birds safe at night and any time no one is home - I had a friend lost some chickens to a fox (or foxes?) which managed to work open the latch and a bolt on her coop and opened the door. Predator proof/predator resistant latches and bolts are so expensive over here so to keep the cost down but security at the highest we have two hasp and staples (one on top of door, one on bottom) which are padlocked and we have a brenton bolt in the center of the door.
We haven't yet put the new coop together because I wanted it all painted first to make sure we got into all the nooks and crannies, so I don't yet know if the nests are the same level but judging by the picture, I think the nests are higher than the roosts.
I don't have a problem with poop on eggs because between cleaning out and completely changing the bedding (which I do twice a week) I poop pick every morning as soon as I let them out - I do the whole hutch ducks area as well - I use a poop scoop which works by letting all the unsoiled bedding fall through the slots and the soiled and wet bedding along with poop stays on the scoop, then I replenish as needed, so they always have a clean bed to go into.
We won't be using the roost bars provided because they are very slim, - so we are going to buy some 2 x 4's and make the roost bars ourselves, do you think that is the right size?. Our aim is to have them sleeping in it by Tuesday night, will post a pic when coop is done

A padlock is unnecessary unless you have humans stealing eggs or birds.
It also makes it very difficult to get inside quickly which you’ve already experienced.
You might consider using an aluminum carabiner.
They were recommended on another thread by an experienced BYCer because raccoons are unable to operate them.
Raccoons can figure out other types of latches such as barrel bolt latches.
I’m aware raccoons aren’t native to the UK but a fox would need opposable thumbs to operate a carabiner lol.
Which means they’re easy for us humans to remove and put on.
That saves time when it’s wet, cold, dark or there’s a commotion in there.
I ordered a package from Amazon that had many different sizes to fit the different sized latches on both coops.

Cricket decided to model for me

Just shut it, latch it, and put the carabiner on. Easy peasy

Here’s the one for the prefab

 

[CannedMonster]

@Anna Ranieri Could you use a caribeaner clip through the lock spot? Instead of s lock with a key? That's what we use on our gates.

I wrote the above response before I saw yours lol.

 

[Anna Ranieri]

A padlock is unnecessary unless you have humans stealing eggs or birds.
It also makes it very difficult to get inside quickly which you’ve already experienced.
You might consider using an aluminum carabiner.
They were recommended on another thread by an experienced BYCer because raccoons are unable to operate them.
Raccoons can figure out other types of latches such as barrel bolt latches.
I’m aware raccoons aren’t native to the UK but a fox would need opposable thumbs to operate a carabiner lol.
Which means they’re easy for us humans to remove and put on.
That saves time when it’s wet, cold, dark or there’s a commotion in there.
I ordered a package from Amazon that had many different sizes to fit the different sized latches on both coops.
View attachment 1548320
Cricket decided to model for me
View attachment 1548321
Just shut it, latch it, and put the carabiner on. Easy peasy
View attachment 1548323
Here’s the one for the prefab
View attachment 1548325

Yes I really like this Idea - as you know, @Geranium suggested this in earlier post and I thought then its such a simple but brilliant Idea.
Love your pictures, Cricket makes a wonderful model - love that she's chosen to model the carabiner that matches her colour lol.
I read that foxes get doors open by repeatedly pushing and pulling on it - I'm thinking these are a good idea because even with vigorous/prolonged movement they wouldn't come undone because of the spring action.
We have a brenton bolt which is designed such that it can't be shaken open, but I've read that foxes have opened bolts using their noses! I guess if hungry enough they'd try anything

 

[No More Empty Nest]

6 weeks old today!
Top: Amber, Diamond. Bottom: Jade, Opal, Pearl

 

[Anna Ranieri]

6 weeks old today!View attachment 1548768 View attachment 1548770 View attachment 1548771 View attachment 1548772 View attachment 1548773
Top: Amber, Diamond. Bottom: Jade, Opal, Pearl

Awwwwww, they are so beautiful

 

[PNW_Peepers]

I’ve been taking my two week old babies outside every day for the last week! They are growing so fast, my Olive Egger is double the size and weight of the other two. I know he’s a rooster. They’ve started escaping the two and a half foot tall brooder! & just yesterday started eating fermented feed for breakfast.

I’m flirting with the idea of culling Jackie the feather picking Orpington. She quit eating a few days ago, and seems almost depressed alone. If I add another bird with her she starts to feather pick them. I feel terrible for her, but at the same time I don’t want to risk other birds to her cannabilism. I can’t consciously rehome her to another flock, knowing she’ll harm them as well.

 

[CannedMonster]

I’ve been taking my two week old babies outside every day for the last week! They are growing so fast, my Olive Egger is double the size and weight of the other two. I know he’s a rooster. They’ve started escaping the two and a half foot tall brooder! & just yesterday started eating fermented feed for breakfast. View attachment 1548857I’m flirting with the idea of culling Jackie the feather picking Orpington. She quit eating a few days ago, and seems almost depressed alone. If I add another bird with her she starts to feather pick them. I feel terrible for her, but at the same time I don’t want to risk other birds to her cannabilism. I can’t consciously rehome her to another flock, knowing she’ll harm them as well.

I don’t blame you for considering culling.
Some birds are just duds and they have issues that can’t be dealt with easily or sometimes at all.
I read of another BYCer that had a hen that would break the eggs of other broodys and had even killed chicks.
It took that person a while to finally cull and her flock was often in chaos before she did.
Afterwards it was so much more peaceful that she realized she had let it go on far too long.
Culling doesn’t always mean freezer camp either.
After I culled my 3 SLW by rehoming things have been much better around here.
It’s funny because they don’t act that way at my friends house.

 

[PNW_Peepers]

This is my new daily battle. Won’t be long before I have to put a lid on them! This one is going to be a trouble maker, I can already tell.

 

[Geranium]

My chicks turned three weeks yesterday! No pink in anyone's combs yet, fingers crossed that continues. Agatha is still my snuggly lap chicken. Blue and one of the Australorps enjoyed some lap snuggles as well. The girls have learn to come for treats when I call them. They're growing so fast!

Question: Ellie, one of the Buff Orps, pecks quite hard, and it hurts. The others will occasionally peck at the tattoo on my wrist, or freckles on my arms, but it's just a little peck. Ellie pecks a lot harder. I brushed her off my lap when she'd peck, or flicked at her beak to dissuade her. Anything else I can do to help her learn that my tattoo isn't food?