2x6 Coop? - PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tenderkat]

I have spent the last few months scrounging up as much salvaged materials as possible to build my coop and run for my new pullets. This thing SHOULD have been built at least a month ago, but weather and scheduling conflicts have prevented that. Oh well, we're starting it today.

I have a plethora of 2x6's, so I am hoping to be able to use these for my wall framing, and that will leave just the roof framing, which I'll purchase 2x4's for.

If I use the 2x6's for my walls, will I still be able to insulate the walls with standard insulation? I plan on using just regular batts, but from my understanding, this will leave dead air space between the insulation batts and the interior walls. Will this be a problem?

Not sure if I am making any sense, but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much, my girls REALLY need to get into their permanent home!!

 

[Galaxiedriver]

You can get 5 1/2 or 6 1/4 insulation for 6 inch walls. However, the air space should not be a problem. Insulation is mostly air space anyway.

 

[Opa]

If it were me I'd save enough 2x6 for roof rafters and buy 2x4 for the walls. Since you don't have enough for walls, rip those you have to 2x4.

 

[BioBob]

I agree with Opa. You have an "Unknown" location, but if you are North of the Mason-Dixon, you're going to want to have the best insulation in the rafters.

 

[tenderkat]

We are in the foothills of Colorado, so we do get our cold winters, but nothing like they get on the plains or up in Minnesota, or some of the more humid climates. I think we probably have enough 2x6's to use for the rafters as well, if that will be better.

Also, since I will be using 2x6 framing, can I space them a bit farther apart? Initially, I was going to place them 12" OC for our snow load, but that was when I was going to use 2x4's for the walls.

 

[Opa]

I'd recommend 16" on center for the roof framing and if you are using 2x6 for you wall plates and studs you could go 24"oc. Don't forget the top plate needs to be doubled.

 

[twentynine]

What deminsions are you talking about?

For the coop that is.

Rip the 2X6s in half for the walls. You will end up with a 2X3 actual size 1 5/8 X 2 3/4. Plenty substantial enough to support walls. Because you guys end up with some sort of snow load on the roof I'd leave the 2X6s full deminsion for the roof. 16" OC walls and roof.

 

[tenderkat]

We are doing a 4 x 8 foot coop.

Opa..............Okay, now I'm confused. Why do I need to double the top plate? I'm doing a pitched roof with a slight overhang on the front and back. I have no experience with framing, and neither does my DH. I have pulled up a ton of plans and looked at a bunch of BYC coop pages to get an idea of what I need to do. I don't recall seeing this type of top plate. Please, I know I'm probably in over my head, so excuse my framing ignorance But, I'm a tough, determined chick who knows how to use power tools, so I figure I can piece a simple coop together. About that top plate?

 

[Opa]

Ever wall should have a double top plate to help carry the weight of the roof load. The double plate transfers the weight to the studs.

 

[azelgin]

Quote:
Double top plates are extra reinforcement to bear the load of the rafters, when the rafter does not lie directly over a stud. It's not required when using 2 x 6 top plates in any residential building codes. I wouldn't bother doing it with even 2 x 4s in a 4 x 8 chicken coop. Codes are written taking into account the worst specimen of a graded (#1, #2, standard, select strucural, etc.) piece of lumber that will find its way out of the sawmill. Just as a note of interest, the span tables were reduced for most species on lumber in 1992, because of the decrease in quality trees being harvested and lax grading rules that resulted. Good luck with your coop.