- Thread starter
- #3,061
I am contacting those that did not post their hatch numbers so that I can get a total. I will give a cutoff to let me know and then total what I have for you all.Come on Ron tell us the total![]()
The suspense is killing me.![]()
![]()

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I am contacting those that did not post their hatch numbers so that I can get a total. I will give a cutoff to let me know and then total what I have for you all.Come on Ron tell us the total![]()
The suspense is killing me.![]()
![]()
All of it...makes me think of a small apartment with fridge, TV, stereo, LOL! (My Brinsea is packed...would love to have that space in my bator! (But buying a Brinsea 40 could have been dangerous!) This would have been my husband------>A year ago I never even thought I would have chickens...now here I am addicted! And I guess a Brinsea 40 would have given me space to pack it FULL. How do you control yourself and not pack that bator to the gills???
I see space in there for a BUNK BED!
![]()
In my experience locally. TSC is very good about moving their food before it is beyond the pale.
I keep light on them 24/7 for the first week so a white light is ok then. After that they need a dark period so I'd switch to a red light or a ceramic emitter.
The first week they'll sleep whenever they get tired and when they're awake I like them to have food.
A red light limits pecking. Chickens in constant bright lighting tend to go a little crazy.
And like any earth bound creature, they need a dark period.
I'm begging for a textbook for Christmas called 'Poultry Lighting' that has the up to date research on chicken's photo receptors, physiology, intensity, ahemeral lighting and color spectrums, source, pathological and behavioral consequences of extremes of illumination . It's about fifty bucks.
After I read it I'll be able to share.
should i change over to just regular starter when i let them in with my older hens? I dont have two separate coops and i think my girls could use the extra protein from the starter feedI would get medicated starter. Keep them on that until you see the first egg, then change to layer and provide free choice crushed oyster shell.
im glad you mentioned that because i wouldnt have thought that the light would melt the cage.... the cage is metal with i think a rubber coating so that would have been bad...The wire dog cage would work but make sure you can take or clean the top off. I know they are normaly painted black. The dog crate I used was a plastic one. I had a board over hanging the front by like a foot then I hung the light on that faceing into the silver front door bars. The wife set it up one time for me and when I got home from work she was melting the plastic above the door cause she set the light in wrong spot.
Heat lights are dangerous so be safe and look at it and give your self about 5 min trying to make sure you thought of all that can go wrong with it. I use some metal wire and attach it to the back of heat lamps normaly if I have an anchor to attach it to.
I dont know if we have cocci here. My older hens were vaccinated for it and i remember reading that if they are vaccinated and you feed medicated starter it causes the vaccination to become obsolete, or something along those lines. I was thinking that i would get the small bag of medicated starter by manna pro then change them to a grower starter that they could share with the older hens when they move in together. (let me know if this is a bad idea)Starter and grower are often the same thing--grower sometimes a larger crumble. Srarter\grower is a medium crumble that works for them until they are grown. Medicated helps chicks build an immunity to Coccidiosis. It is not necessary if your place does not have cocci. If you do not know, then medicated might be a good idea.
I treat for Cocci if necessary and give them a GMO Free starter\grower.
Thank you for helping them.
I got it meant that I had copied the picture into my Word Document.
You are crackin me up!
I set last Friday, I sneaked a lil candling in yesterday and today... And it's just making me crazy. I thought I saw veining in my BBS Orps yesterday, but saw NONE today.....I simply can NOT face MsLadyHawke if I have yet another hatch that produces no SPLASH .
They build resistance to Cocci after about 16 weeks. You could feed them medicated fee until then and switch all of them to non medicated. Watch them for several weeks after moving off of the medicated feed to make sure they do not get sick.okay that makes sense. and yes please share with us what you learn from that book!! i love getting books filled with informationi have a stack of chicken books i acquired in the last few months!
should i change over to just regular starter when i let them in with my older hens? I dont have two separate coops and i think my girls could use the extra protein from the starter feed
im glad you mentioned that because i wouldnt have thought that the light would melt the cage.... the cage is metal with i think a rubber coating so that would have been bad...
I dont know if we have cocci here. My older hens were vaccinated for it and i remember reading that if they are vaccinated and you feed medicated starter it causes the vaccination to become obsolete, or something along those lines. I was thinking that i would get the small bag of medicated starter by manna pro then change them to a grower starter that they could share with the older hens when they move in together. (let me know if this is a bad idea)
and i have been looking for a GMO free feed for both my goats and chickens but i cant find anything around here and i dont have the money to have feed shipped to my house... the closest thing i can find is the organic blue seal feed but it is $35 for a 50lb bag, and thats only for chickens, i cant find anything for my goats too
They build resistance to Cocci after about 16 weeks. You could feed them medicated feed until then and switch all of them to non medicated. Watch them for several weeks after moving off of the medicated feed to make sure they do not get sick.