for hive beetles, our favorite plan of attack is to smush them. whenever you see them on the frame, tap it on the lid and crush all beetles that fall off. we also encourage fire ants around the colonies because they will kill and eat the beetles and the larvae. we destroy any other fire ant nests on the property, but the ones around the hives get a free pass so long as they don't get out of control.
if you don't have or don't want fire ants, try some DE in the soil under the hive.
here's other tips from
here
Control : If A. tumida is suspected or detected, the following precautions are suggested:
1. Be clean around the honey house. Do not leave filled supers standing long before extraction. Do not leave cappings exposed for long periods. Beetles can build up rapidly in stored honey, especially away from protective bees.
2. Do not stack or store infested supers onto strong colonies.
3. Be aware that supering colonies, making splits, exchanging combs, or use of Porter bee escapes can spread the beetles or provide room for beetles to become established away from the cluster of protective bees.
4. Monitor colonies for hygienic behavior; ie., the ability to actively rid themselves of both larval and adult A. tumida. Propagate those queen lines found to be beetle-resistant.
5. Experiment with trapping or cultural control measures. It may be possible to trap beetle larvae as they attempt to reach soil and pupate. Moving colonies may be advisable to keep a beetle population from building up in any particular apiary. The ability of beetles to complete development may vary according to different soil conditions and beekeepers may find some locations naturally less prone to beetle infestation. Fire ants may be a beneficial insect in this context if they are found to prey on pupating beetles.
6. Bees will normally not clean up equipment or supers full of beetle-fermented honey. However, bees may finish the job if the beekeeper first washes out as much honey as possible with a high-pressure water hose