A general guide to raising pigeons

[backyard pigeons]

Here is a general guide to raising pigeons that I have put together.

This is basic info. All cases vary, if you have a question, please feel free to start a thread or ask on https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/pigeon-talk.1276029/. Hope This helps!

Pigeon housing:

Pigeons require very few things in order to maintain healthy and happy. For housing, each pigeon needs 3-4 square feet of ground space, that is if you have adequate height to your loft. I recommend a walk in loft, so that you can go inside, and enjoy them. This also makes maintenance easier. If you don't want a walk in loft, do at least 4 ft from the floor, to roof. This allows them to get off the ground to perch, nest and sleep. Pigeons do not like round perches, they much prefer to have flat perches. Here is a picture of my perches. There are several other types of perches that are also good.

If you plan on letting them breed, you need to make nesting boxes. I recommend doing at least 18 inches deep, 2 feet long and depending on breed, 12 to 18 inches high. Below is a picture of my boxes.

For the floor, some use hardware cloth, others do dirt floors, and some wooden. It all comes down to personal preference. I use wooden floors, and am happy with it, but does require more work. Hardware is good, unless it's gonna be a walk in loft, because you can't walk on hardware. Dirt floors are also good, it's a very natural effect. Although do make sure it is well drained.

It is up to you if you want to do an aviary\run, just make sure there's a roof on it. I don't have any aviaries, but wish I did. It really is good for the birds, as they can get fresh air, sunshine and take baths. Also make sure the wire is small enough so that there are no predators getting your birds.

Food\water\grit:

Pigeons require food consisting of 14% to 18% protein. Some prefer pellets, others (like me) prefer grains. If possible, buy a pre-maid pigeon is from your local co-op. If it is too pricey, you can mix your own, just make sure it consists of 14% to 18% protein. You don't want to leave food in your loft 24\7. This allows your pigeons to eat too much, getting fat and lazy, but also invites mice and rats. I feed as much as they can eat in 10 minutes.

I recommend for grit, crushing oyster shell in to smaller bits so pigeons are able to eat it, or using chick grit. Chick grit is ready as is, but oyster shell provides calcium for your birds, which is needed for breeding. Provide grit 24\7.

Make sure your water dish is 1 inch or more. Pigeons slurp water like horses in a way, so they require deeper water. Although they could get water from shallower water, they prefer to drink from deeper.

Although this is very brief, it should be able to get you started in the wonderful hobby of pigeon keeping! I hope this helps!

 

[Hokum Coco]

Here is a general guide to raising pigeons that I have put together.

Very informative filled with good advice thank you for sharing.

Three things I would also recommend are

1) Never fly a pigeon you are not willing to loose.

2) I employ two tarps. My floor of the loft can be covered with one such tarp. When that tarp becomes soiled I merely replace it with the second tarp. The soiled tarp once I have dump off all the loose manure I spread out on the ground in the sun to bake and dry. Then I use the back side of an iron garden rake to loosen any stubborn poop which I shake off into my compost bin. Lastly I house off the tarp and fold it up once it dries and store it ready for the next exchange. Large deposits off poop just peels off with ease when it becomes frozen in winter (I live in Canada no stranger to Arctic Conditions.) Makes spring clean up less of a chore.

3) The thing that work for me is I line my nest boxes (which were built with this in mind) with empty nylon mesh feed bag. In some cases they are folded and stapled (with easy removal a fore thought) to fit with a few irregular nest boxes. Then I employ a similar clean up system as my tarps.

 

[backyard pigeons]

Very informative filled with good advice thank you for sharing.

Three things I would also recommend are

1) Never fly a pigeon you are not willing to loose.

2) I employ two tarps. My floor of the loft can be covered with one such tarp. When that tarp becomes soiled I merely replace it with the second tarp. The soiled tarp once I have dump off all the loose manure I spread out on the ground in the sun to bake and dry. Then I use the back side of an iron garden rake to loosen any stubborn poop which I shake off into my compost bin. Lastly I house off the tarp and fold it up once it dries and store it ready for the next exchange. Large deposits off poop just peels off with ease when it becomes frozen in winter (I live in Canada no stranger to Arctic Conditions.) Makes spring clean up less of a chore.

3) The thing that work for me is I line my nest boxes (which were built with this in mind) with empty nylon mesh feed bag. In some cases they are folded and stapled (with easy removal a fore thought) to fit with a few irregular nest boxes. Then I employ a similar clean up system as my tarps.

View attachment 1703315

Yes, very good points. I'm hoping to do one on flying birds also, so if I do, I'll include to not fly a bird you are not willing to lose. Thanks for the input! I'll also might add the tarp and feed bad idea.