A passive solar air heater for the coop!

[CentralOregon]

Yes, probably very similar. Those pop can solar heaters were some of the inspiration behind this build. Thing is, I couldn't see saving, drilling, and gluing 200 cans together, so I had to come up with a more efficient method. Also, the pop can models only pass the air through the heater for roughly 6' before it exits, whereas this model passes air through about 50' before it exits. The end result was a faster build and a much hotter unit, but yes, very similar.

 

[RonP]

I was hoping to hear your views on the advantages of heating a coop.

 

[CentralOregon]

Sure. First, let me mention that when I refer to heating the coop, I'm not talking about making it a tropical paradise; I'm simply interested in keeping it above freezing. The heater I've designed "trickles" the air, so it shouldn't get too warm inside the coop, though winter will be the actual testing ground.

So, my reasons for keeping the coop above freezing:

1) I'm designing a watering system that keeps the water at 72° during winter. The reservoir and delivery pipe are insulated, but the drink nipples are still susceptible to freezing.

2) Eggs, being mostly water, will quickly freeze and crack if I'm unable to collect them expeditiously.

3) Providing warm air to the coop creates convection with the existing vents; new air is being pulled in (and exhausted) all day.

4) I'd like my birds to spend more energy on egg production than on heat production; it's a better return on the feed.

 

[RonP]

I understand your passive solar heating system.
I have a passive solar system also, my coops windows all face south.
Sunny daytime temps are usually 10 to 30 degrees above outside temps.

What do you think will happen after hours when the solar system shuts down?
With ventilation designed as you described, you will have instant heat loss. Closing the ventilation will cause more problems than frozen eggs or water.

Prior to adding an electric heating base to my waterers, my water was frozen every morning during sub freezing temps regardless of daytime temps. I also have adequate ventilation to keep moisture under control.

Do you also plan on supplementing their lighting to keep egg production up during the winter months ("a better return on the feed")?

 

[CentralOregon]

I'm well aware of how the sun works. Chickens tend to lay in the morning instead of overnight, so eggs freezing overnight will not be an issue. You wrongly assume (just as another commenter above you) that I am closing off the vents. I am not closing off vents. After sundown, the heater cools and convection stops; the temperature normalizes to outdoor temp + chicken body heat; it's not the instant temperature change you're implying. This isn't rocket science. I accept that the nipples may freeze overnight, but given that chickens sleep all night, that's not much an issue. With my system, the nipples will be thawed and ready when they are needed, during the daytime. Yes, of course I plan on using supplemental light. On a sidenote: your condescending bold text makes me think you're assuming that my limited post-count is a reflection of my knowledge on the topic -- and if that were the case, you'd be wrong.

 

[RonP]

Bold type is to emphasise a point, not to be condescending.
I use this forum to share information and opinions, never to be condescending or elitist.
I apologise if you have taken offence, that was not my intention.

My point was that when the solar system is inoperational, due to lack of sun during the evening, or inclement weather, which could last days, with adequate ventilation your coop temps will drop to ambient temperatures. You agreed.

I would disagree with your statement that "nipples will be thawed and ready when they are needed".

In my experience (backyard flock for over 40 years), it could take many hours after sunlight, using solar assist, for the water to unfreeze should the ambient temps be well below freezing, such as you described your climate. During stormy weather, they would never unfreeze as there would be no solar assist. As you stated, this is not rocket science.

Regardless, the chickens start their day at daybreak, this could be many hours before daybreak if you use artificial lighting as stated. That is well before any solar assisted heat is introduced, and they will want their water.

You failed to mention a primary source of heat for when your solar is inoperational.

I have seen solar devices in operation such as yours. They work surprisingly well given the right conditions. Unfortunately, solar is not predictable, but the needs for a healthy flock are.

 

[CentralOregon]

I understand that bolding a word or two is intended to draw attention -- highlighting several phrases merely implies that the reader can't comprehend simple English. I take no offense, just pointing out that it seems condescending.

Yes, it is fine if the coop drops to ambient temperature when the solar is inoperable. Weather is unpredictable and we must simply accept that. Last year's low temps were record-setting; they are not what we expect every year. Still, on those days, we did have sun, so the heater would have helped.

I would like to add that even when there is no sun "shining" (ie, overcast) the heater still collects and emits some amount of heat, just not as prolifically as on a full-sun day.

I didn't fail to mention a primary source of heat in the case of solar failure: as I mentioned previously, I'm not trying to create a tropical setting. When the heater isn't collecting heat, there will be no heat. Along these lines, you can think of the solar heater as the primary heat source. The collector has full Southern exposure all day, so that essentially limits the unheated time to "overnight" and during that rare overcast day that passes through.

You make a good point about the nipples freezing when I have extended the photoperiod; this makes sense and is something I'll have to solve for.

If it comes to a point where the passive heater isn't cutting it -- say, several days of overcast sub-zero temps -- I have a space heater, a secured (and fire-safe) location to place it inside the coop, and power outlets within easy reach. Likewise, if I had to, I could bring out the 2 gallon fount waterers and place them on a pot with a light bulb underneath and run it on the batteries and solar power that are also rigged up to the coop.

 

[RonP]

I understand this is a new to you system, as yet not tried and true.
Please post your results after your first cold season.
I would very much be interested to hear how this works out.

 

[CentralOregon]

I understand this is a new to you system, as yet not tried and true.
Please post your results after your first cold season.
I would very much be interested to hear how this works out.

That's correct. It's only been tested on nice days, so it's entirely fair to consider it experimental. As such, I will be documenting the temperatures and noting the conditions frequently as the seasons turn. It's unlikely I'll have "nailed it" on my first build, so I'll also post back with anything learned and any planned improvements. Let me know if there is any other particular data you are interested in and I'll do my best to collect it.

 

[RonP]

Try to post sunrise time, weather conditions, ambient temp, the time the solar heat starts to kick in and stops, and maximum temp differential ( I'm thinking this should be close to fixed ). I know this is asking a lot,but the more information, the better to evaluate.