adding chicks to single/solo silkie

M

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If I introduce everyone properly
with close supervision and
If their brooder plate goes out with them,
And if everyone can co-exist…
when can I put my two 2.5-week Easter egger/welsummer chicks out in the coop with my single 10-month silkie.
She has been super stressed when left alone, which is most of the day every day for going on two months now since she’s been on her own.
Do they still need to be fully feathered if they have the older silkie and their brooder ?

Any and all thoughts/advice are appreciated❤️
 
The lowest I've dealt with was mid 40s. I've seen folks brood outdoors down to the 20s however that does require more climate protection than what my set up offers - i.e. brooding in the actual coop for weather and draft protection.
Thank you. Lows this time of year are 20-30F. But the elements are less of a concern as their set up would be under a big run with roof:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/coop-venting-question.1493531/page-2

However, I need to mention the single silkie is almost certainly carrying mareks. The 2.5week olds are vaccinated. (They will be a closed flock).

Considering the mareks dilemma, Im Guessing too premature to integrate their coop inside the run where the silkies coop is(?)
If I were to set up their broodercoop (like what you’ve shared), in the garage, when do you think is the soonest I could move it/chicks out to the run? Thank you!!
 
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I forgot how long the vaccine needs to fully take effect, I believe it's 2 weeks but don't quote me on that.

If you're brooding inside the garage, with those temperatures (and taking into account the time the vaccine needs to fully kick in), I'd prioritize weaning them off heat as much as possible with the intention of bringing them outside at around 4 weeks or so, in a draft protected area, for short periods. Slowly increase their exposure to outside temps as you decrease their reliance on heat for the next 2 weeks or so. At that point they can probably start spending most of their day outside with your Silkie, and if everything goes well you can probably move them into the coop a week or so after that.

The numbers above aren't meant to be hard rules - go by how feathered the chicks are, and how well they deal with the temperatures, and modify as needed.
 
If I introduce everyone properly
with close supervision and
If their brooder plate goes out with them,
And if everyone can co-exist…
don't rely on introduction to determine they love each other and one never kill another if gets bored or pissed of. Fence of part of the coop with the brooder plate, chick feed, water, make the gate (holes) or two in the fence for only chicks to be able to go through into their designated area.
 
Fence of part of the coop with the brooder plate, chick feed, water, make the gate (holes) or two in the fence for only chicks to be able to go through into their designated area.
That's what I do but it may be tougher in this case (assuming this is a bantam Silkie) as small hens can squeeze into standard chick-size openings. Even my wide load head hen managed to wedge herself into an opening about 4" wide to get at the chick feeder.
 
That's what I do but it may be tougher in this case (assuming this is a bantam Silkie) as small hens can squeeze into standard chick-size openings. Even my wide load head hen managed to wedge herself into an opening about 4" wide to get at the chick feeder.
my "gates" are made of 9-gauge galvanized wire formed in U shape upside down with the opening in the chicken wire fence "weaved" around it, so the width of the gate is indefinitely adjustable
 

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