Adding pullets and a rooster

[IloveChickens3000]

Get a black Australorp, they are very nice chickens just like Orpingtons. Also stupid hawks think that the australorp is a crow because hawks and crows hate eachother. But hawks and eagels do attack roosters too. They are also VERY beautiful birds.

 

[getaclue]

Roosters will keep watch, and sound the alarm. Yes, Black Australorps are usually a good breed to choose, as long as you don't have any bantams.

 

[Mrs. K]

I am rather of the chaos theory. I would add them all at once. The hens will focus on the rooster, and the rooster will ignore the pullets until they are nearly laying. The more the merrier.

Do lock your hens outside the run/coop set up for a day, so that your pullets can explore the area without being chased for their lives. Add the rooster in late afternoon, and then the hens just before dark.

Mrs K

 

[aart]

4 hens for a rooster is perfect. A Rooster should have 4-6 hens.

Not sure where you get these numbers...but that's nonsense.
The 'rooster' to hen ratio of 1:10 that is often cited is primarily for fertility efficiency in commercial breeding facilities.
It doesn't mean that if a cockbird has 10 hens that he won't abuse or over mate them.
Many breeders keep pairs, trios, quads, etc
It all depends on the temperaments of the cock and hens and sometimes housing provided.
Backyard flocks can achieve good fertility with a larger ratio.

Hello, I currently have four hens who free range most of the day. I want to add three pullets and a rooster. I know I’m not going to add the pullets and the rooster at the same time, but which should I add first, the pullets or the rooster, or does it matter? I have a separate 4’ x 8’ enclosure to quarantine the new birds for a while while everyone gets used to each other. If I add the rooster first, are four hens enough until I can get the other three pullets?

How old are the youngsters?

Can you really do a true quarantine?
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article



Here's some tips about.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[scottvan]

Not sure where you get these numbers...but that's nonsense.
The 'rooster' to hen ratio of 1:10 that is often cited is primarily for fertility efficiency in commercial breeding facilities.
It doesn't mean that if a cockbird has 10 hens that he won't abuse or over mate them.
Many breeders keep pairs, trios, quads, etc
It all depends on the temperaments of the cock and hens and sometimes housing provided.
Backyard flocks can achieve good fertility with a larger ratio.


How old are the youngsters?

Can you really do a true quarantine?
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article



Here's some tips about.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

The new pullets will be about 3.5 months old, I’m going to get them in two weeks. Thank you for all the info!

 

[getaclue]

scott, quarantine the new pullets AWAY from the existing flock for a month. Don't rush the quarantine process. After you are sure they are fine, and in good health, then confine them where they can see the main flock, and the main flock can see them, for awhile. Follow aart's suggestions, as they are very good.

 

[scottvan]

Ok, so I’m going to medically quarantine new birds in a 10’x10’ enclosure about 50’ from the existing coop/run for a month. Existing birds will be confined to their coop/run (no free-ranging during this time). Then I’ll move the new birds to the 4’x8’ enclosure within the run for a week so they can all see each other, but still be separated.

 

[getaclue]

Sounds like a good plan.