Amprolium medicated feed?

[casportpony]

@rancher hicks , what should one do if their ducklings get coccidiosis?

-Kathy

 

[rancher hicks]

@rancher hicks , what should one do if their ducklings get coccidiosis?

-Kathy

As I've stated I raised five blue swedish ducks and none got coccidiosis. They were raised on unmedicated Dumor Grower 20%. Not one got sick needed to be treated for anything. In fact the spent their adult coop time here in with my Columbian Rock chickens until I traded them away.

IN FACT Ducks are hardier than chickens. Everything I've read says this.

Folks need to look at their husbandry practices before they have a problem. Unfortunately it's only after acquiring animals and when they have problems do they look for information. Properly kept you should not see some problems.

Remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[casportpony]

Quote:
Quote:

Coccidiosis, Intestinal, of Ducks and Geese

Introduction

Young ducks and geese may suffer from Eimeria spp infection. In the goose E. anseris is the most important, while in ducks Tyzzeria perniciosa is most pathogenic. Tyzerria has eight sporocysts in each oocyst, compared to four per oocyst for Eimeria. Coccidiosis occurs only very rarely in commercially reared ducks in the UK.
Signs

• Sudden death.
• Depression.
• Blood-stained vent.
• Tucked appearance.

Post-mortem lesions

• Massive haemorrhage in upper small intestine.

Diagnosis

Signs, lesions, microscopic examination of scrapings (usually few or no oocysts, large number of merozoites). Differentiate from Duck viral hepatitis, Duck viral enteritis, anatipestifer.
Treatment

Sulphonamides (e.g. Sulphadimidine 30-600gm/100 birds/day, 3 days on, 2 days off, 3 days on), Amprolium, Vitamins A and K in feed or water.
Prevention

If required coccidiostats could be used in feed, however this is not routinely practised. Hygiene.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

This is an example of a medicated feed that *is* toxic to waterfowl.




-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

This is toxic to waterfowl *and* dogs!

HOME / PRODUCTS / POULTRY / HISTOSTAT

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HISTOSTAT

Type A Medicated Article

Histostat

is a Type A Medicated Article for the prevention of blackhead in turkeys and chickens.

• The only FDA-approved drug for the prevention of blackhead (histomoniasis)
• Reduces morbidity, mortality and economic losses associated with blackhead in poultry 1,2
• Can be used in chicken and turkey breeders

Collapse All

• Indications for Use
  Aids in the prevention of blackhead in turkeys and chickens

• FDA Status & Storage Information
  FDA Status
  • Category II drug and requires a feedmill license when the source of nitarsone contains more than 8.5 g/pound (1.87%)
  • Approved for use in two-way combination with BMD
    
    or Albac
    
    in turkeys only*
  Storage and Packaging:
  • Store in a protected location, avoid excessive heat and keep package closed to avoid contamination
  • Histostat is packaged in a 50-pound, multiwall paper bag with protective barrier ply
  
  *Reference Title 21 Code of Federal Regulations 558.369 for species-specific combination clearances.

• Safe Handling
  • Expiration period is 36 months from the date of manufacture (package indicates expiration date)
  • Use as the sole ration of arsenic
  • Dangerous for ducks, geese and dogs
  • A 5-day withdrawal is required prior to slaughter

• Diseases & Conditions
  Blackhead (histomoniasis)

• Product Label
  Product Label Information
  
  

• References
  1. McNaughton JL, Skinner JT. Effects of nitarsone as an aid in the prevention of blackhead in replacement chickens challenged with Histomonas meleagridis carried by nematodes. Poultry Sci 2000;79(suppl. 1):48.
  2. McNaughton JL, Skinner JT. Effects of nitarsone as an aid in the prevention of blackhead in turkeys challenged with Histomonas meleagridis carried by nematodes. Poultry Sci 2000;79(suppl. 1):106.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: HISTOSTAT contains arsenic. If swallowed, call a physician or poison control center immediately and induce vomiting by giving Ipecac syrup as directed. Withdraw 5 days before slaughtering poultry for human consumption.

 

[casportpony]

Sorry, I'm on a roll, lol. This was written about geese, but does note that amprolium is safe for waterfowl.

Quote:

COCCIDIOSIS
Geese can get two distinct types of coccidiosis. The most prevalent form is renal coccidiosis caused by Eimeria truncata. While intestinal coccidiosis is less prevalent, it is caused primarily by Eimeria anseris. At least five additional species of Eimeria have been isolated from the intestine of the goose. The level of infection and degree of economic loss associated with coccidiosis in the goose is generally low and it is not regarded as a major problem.
Symptoms. Renal coccidiosis can affect geese from 3-12 weeks of age, although the younger birds are much more susceptible. In an exceptional acute form, renal coccidiosis can result in mortality as high as 80 percent. Other indicators of the disease include depression, weakness, diarrhoea, whiteish faeces, anorexia, dull, sunken eyes and drooped wings. Diagnosis of renal coccidiosis can be confirmed by locating the distinctive oocysts in the kidneys and in the cloaca near the urethras. Birds quickly develop immunity to re-infection by Eimeria truncata.
Intestinal coccidiosis also mostly affects young birds but does not always result in mortality. Rather, the infection produces anorexia, a tottering gait, debility, diarrhoea and morbidity. The small intestine becomes enlarged and filled with reddish brown fluid. Lesions are primarily in the middle and lower portion of the small intestine.
Treatment. Various sulphonamide drugs and coccidiostats have been used in the treatment of renal and intestinal coccidiosis of geese. If the geese are to be fed rations which were formulated for other types of poultry, it should be noted that in spite of popular belief to the contrary, waterfowl can be fed rations containing most of the coccidiostats used for chickens. The Veterinary University of Hanover, Germany have specifically reported that the following coccidiostats found in chicken rations are tolerated by waterfowl: amprolium, amprolium-ethopabate, clopidol, clopidol-methylbenzoquate, DOT (zoalene), lasalocid monensin-sodium, narasin, nicarbazin, robenidin, salinomycin and sulfaquinoxaline. They also reported that neither halofuginone nor arprinocid are tolerated by waterfowl and that they could find no information on the effect of giving waterfowl feed containing either decoquinate or maduramicin ammonium.

-Kathy

 

[Amykins]

That doesn't make it okay to give medicated feed to ducklings. I'm a bit confused, considering that you attempted to "correct" me in saying vitamin E can be damaging to birds in high doses (not only would you need excessive amounts over a long period of time to make an impact, but an excess of vit E alone is not toxic, the only negative effect is it makes other vitamins A and K difficult to metabolize) yet here you are giving the all-clear to give amprolium laved feed to hatchlings. The entire reason you don't give medicated feed to 'lings is because they eat like pigs, and they'll consume ten times the dosage that a chick would simply by that merit alone.

A good rule of thumb to live by is, just don't do it. Don't give ducklings medicated feed, no matter the medicine contained therein. Just stick to good ol' regular starter crumble and you'll do fine!

 

[casportpony]

That doesn't make it okay to give medicated feed to ducklings. I'm a bit confused, considering that you attempted to "correct" me in saying vitamin E can be damaging to birds in high doses (not only would you need excessive amounts over a long period of time to make an impact, but an excess of vit E alone is not toxic, the only negative effect is it makes other vitamins A and K difficult to metabolize) yet here you are giving the all-clear to give amprolium laved feed to hatchlings. The entire reason you don't give medicated feed to 'lings is because they eat like pigs, and they'll consume ten times the dosage that a chick would simply by that merit alone.

A good rule of thumb to live by is, just don't do it. Don't give ducklings medicated feed, no matter the medicine contained therein. Just stick to good ol' regular starter crumble and you'll do fine!

I simply pointed out that vitamin E is fat soluble.

A 100 gram duckling will *not* eat 10x of what a 100 gram chick willl eat.

Here is a post you did:

Hi! I have an adult male call duck, we feed him roughly three times a day. We only give him about 2-3 tablespoons of feed in water (they help him swallow them, otherwise they get caught in his throat) per meal, but even then he sometimes doesn't eat it all. His weight is relatively stable, but can you tell me the amount he should be eating per day? He's a very tiny, show-quality call duck, only weighs one pound.

Thanks so much for your advice, and I hope everything goes well for you today!

And here is the reply:

A bird that size is only going to eat about 0.5 to 1 oz daily, which is probably why he is not eating all of the feed you are offering. As long as he is healthy and not losing wieght and you are feeding a good quality feed, then things are fine! If that is his picture, he sure is a cutie!

Given the about two posts, are you saying that your call duck eats 10x that of a similar sized chicken?

I've been using medicated feed for *many* years and have raised probably over 2000 ducklings using it and have seen no ill effects from doing it.

I should clarify that the *only* reason I use it is because it's usually be fresher than the non-medicated stuff on the shelf, not because I worry about coccidiosis. I will not feed from bags that are over four weeks old, but that's just me.

-Kathy

Edited to add:
This subject just made my top ten medicine misinformation list
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...ne-and-chemical-misinformations#post_14933998

 

[alibabba]

Folks need to look at their husbandry practices before they have a problem. Unfortunately it's only after acquiring animals and when they have problems do they look for information. Properly kept you should not see some problems.

Remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Hi, just trying to figure when to switch out the medicated and ran across this thread, compelled to put in 2 cents.


Chicks need to be exposed to cocci so they can become immune. I read about putting chunks of sod in their brooder to give them a bit at a time and letting them on grass gradually. That makes sense...but I wanted more of the insurance policy and moving 26 chicks in and out was a real conundrum.


My first batch of chicks is 8 weeks. I put them out at 3 weeks their own coop (with the mama heating pad) and felt confident that I could because of medicated feed.

If they are in a pristine environment, and then wham outside or to a new home... It's a cross your fingers and hope for the best. And the potential of dealing with a mildly ill to gravely ill bird...not fun, time consuming, sad...not good for the budget.


Amprolium is okay for certified organic.

When there is talk about medications in our food animals...it's more about therapeutic treatments...antibiotics, steroids, hormones, etc that are used for their entire pathetic lives to keep them alive even though the conditions are hellish.

This is different than treating your backyard hen for a virus or bacteria or other non fatal illness. After treatment she can continue to be a pet, provide eggs and meat later if that's what you do.

Glad people feed with non medicated successfully! I know my luck...if it can go wrong...it will and I am happy there is medicated feed

 

[needlessjunk]

Hi,  just trying to figure when to switch out the medicated and ran across this thread, compelled to put in 2 cents.


Chicks need to be exposed to cocci so they can become immune. I read about putting chunks of sod in their brooder to give them a bit at a time and letting them on grass gradually. That makes sense...but I wanted more of the insurance policy and moving 26 chicks in and out was a real conundrum.

 

 My first batch of chicks is 8 weeks.   I put them out at 3 weeks their own coop (with the mama heating pad)  and felt confident that I could because of medicated feed.


If they are in a pristine environment, and then wham outside or to a new home...  It's a cross your fingers and hope for the best.  And the potential of dealing with a mildly ill to gravely ill bird...not fun, time consuming, sad...not good for the budget.


Amprolium is okay for certified organic.

When there is talk about medications in our food animals...it's more about therapeutic treatments...antibiotics, steroids, hormones, etc that are used for their entire pathetic lives to keep them alive even though the conditions are hellish.

This is different than treating your backyard hen for a virus or bacteria or other non fatal illness.  After treatment she can continue to be a pet, provide eggs and meat later if that's what you do.  

Glad people feed with non medicated successfully!  I know my luck...if it can go wrong...it will and I am happy there is medicated feed

There is a difference though between feeding ducks and chicks medicated feed. You have chicks which are different than ducklings. Ducklings usually don't have the same problems with cocci that chicks do and don't need the medicated feed. However there is some debate about medicated feed harming ducklings so most of us avoid it.