Angel wing, possible pinioning, and ideas on what color?? Pics added

One suggestion I have for you is to pull a couple of the heavier pin feathers out on the bird. I did this with a couple of my sebastopols last year and it worked wonders. It takes the weight off the wing and the birds didn't even bleed when I pulled the feathers. They just grew back in later.

And, make sure they get plenty of grass and lots of exercise.
 
Thanks.. I will try again. I will also pick up the vitamins..
I used the vet wrap, but I think this time I will cut it in half so its not so wide at first..

So, should I wrap the wing itself first? To put the effected part under the rest. And then wrap the whole wing to the body? Once I figure out how to do this so the poor guy doesnt flop all over the pen Im going to add duct tape on top of the vet wrap so it doesnt come off.

The one I call Homer is also develping Angel wing.. Its realy weird.. I didnt have any at all last year and so far 2. And nothing im feeding is different.

If im remembering correctly, the lady I got the parents from, who are brother/sister, said that the eggs came from a trio and one girl had angel wing. If that is the case, where its partly hereditary, are my chances of getting angel wing higher?

Thanks again.. I will post pics later of my wrapping jobs..Gotta clean brooders/pens so everyone stays nice and dry.
 
Pinioning should be done within around 3 or 4 days of hatching. Later than that it should be done by a vet, and if its just to prevent flying you can just clip the wing after each moult - it's not worth the hassle (or money!) to pinion.
 
What % protien feed are you giving them and how much exercise? yes wrap the wing first and then to the body. All you're doing really is forming the wing to grow as it is suppossed to. It's not hereditary. Pips and peeps its past that point for this bird unfortunately. Adam you are correct but she has to fix this problem first otherwise pinioning isnt an option.
 
Last edited:
There are some indications that it may be genetic. The verdict is still out on it. The risks for angel wing are usually higher in heavy breads because they grow so fast. I see books saying 20% protein in the first 2 weeks and less after that in ducklings. I don't even bother at all. All my ducks get grower/developer with 16% protein. Oyster shell on the side once they are laying age. This keeps the drakes clear from any possible calcium issues effecting their kidneys. They simply wont eat the oyster shell and the girls can have as much as they desire. Greens on the side are a must for all. My ducks are lucky they can free range all day on 20 acres. This produces strong birds but has other risks like predators. You win on one end and loose on the other.
 
I go with books too and have read all I can about waterfowl but experiance is the best teacher after the books. Yes you're right it may have a genetic influence. Its open to debate. But we know how to cause it , correct? And we know how to correct it,right? You should bother with the protien percentage throughout the growing and breeding stages if you are going to write a book on waterfowl. This HAS been scientifically proven and also proven in the field both. Start out any control group you like with 16% protein like you say and then do like " the books say" .You will find the mortality factor first time, every time. Also the drakes would have to ingest ALOT of calcium for kidney failure to occur but yes it could be done although not thru ordinary feed. Protien is what causes this problem. Books didnt teach me this but experience did
wink.png
 
Last edited:
If the parents are brother/sister this may contribute something. When the genes are very close, hence a brother to sister breeding, defects are more likely to appear.

Birds that developed angel wing will often have offspring which develope angel wing, though no one knows for certain. It all depends upon the cause of the angel wing. If it was not caused by diet or another controlable factor, then it is heredity that caused it. Though some debate that reactions to protien levels, etc. can be hereditary as well.
 
Is that like a broken wing? It sounds bad... wrap it this way..that way & pull out the feathers
sickbyc.gif
~What should I be feeding my ducks now? }} Freezing cold & rainy weather{{ I've been feeding them" Scratch" it has lots of corn pieces ect.... not sure off hand, ~I'll go look now. ~ It's suppose to be a good thing for them & chickens when weather so cold like this. (well that's what guy @ pet store said). Thanks, Julie
 
Julie- your question about it being like a broken wing has me thinking- With Angel wing the lower section of the wing twists with the weight of the feathers- and pokes out at a 25 - 90 degree angle to the body. In the photo at the top of the thread- the wing just appears to have drooped but is still held close to the body. I am wondering Alicia - can you get a better photo of this young drake on his own?? It looks more like a muscular problem from the photo you have rather than angel wing. Is it possible that he has had some kind of injury to that wing ??
 
Julie,just google it and you will learn most of what you need to know without going into the technical aspects. And ONLY first year ducks that are growing their wings in get it. The adults dont. If you have been feeding scratch I would change to a chicken layer pellet or flockraiser will work. I think higher protien and calcium in flockraiser so would probably would be better than layer feed for egg production. Just depends what your feed store carries.This is a problem in itself. But IMO all feed stores have layer pellets. For newly hatched birds I would use between an 18 to 22 percent feed the first 2 weeks and a 16-18% protien food till flight feathers emerge (this is the stage we are discussing where you may have to lower it and more exercise)you can use scratch here or other grains to lower it. After fully feathered they can handle 14-24% protien. During breeding as mentioned add some oyster shell( for the calcium) for strong egg shells and bump protien to18-20 percent for breeding season. BUT if your confused the adults can do it all on" layer pellet "year round. This is just for optimum conditions. Also "greens " are always helpful in their diet.
smile.png
All these requirements are on penned birds with no free-ranging provided. If you do free range there is a lot more wiggle room
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom