Another "Is my coop big enough?" Post!

Your set up is working for now.

There isn't much room for integration though. Any time one adds birds there needs to be lots of extra space.

There are things that take away from coop actual usable sq footage. Nest box space, feeder space and anything that prevents a bird from standing in that space needs subtracted from the sq footage.

You're right, the egg boxes would be 3 sf, the feed bucket would be about 1 sf, and the hay bale 3-4 sf. I can take out the hay and feed bucket. On the other hand, wouldn't the second level (18 sf) more than make up for it?

Your coop sits really low. Can they stand up under there? Do you have access on the sides in case someone isn't feeling well and heads under there?

The girls run under the coop all the time. They like to dust bathe and scratch around under there. It's actually about 16" underneath, I just measured. Their pop door to the coop is 14" tall and their door to the side yard is 15" tall. They have no problem getting around underneath or through the doors. The Brahma, buff orp, and Barnavelder are pretty good sized girls, too.
No side or back access to the underneath, but I've crawled underneath plenty of times.


In the end it is your choice whether you add or hold off. Either way I wish you happy chickening.

By the way.... The one you refer to in your video as a light Brahma is actually a dark Brahma light Brahma are white with some black in the neck and tail. ;)

Yes!! Dark Brahma is right!

Thanks for the input, I'm going to take out the feed bucket, but leave the hay, sometimes the girls use it to jump up to the second level.
 
Yes!! Dark Brahma is right!

Thanks for the input, I'm going to take out the feed bucket, but leave the hay, sometimes the girls use it to jump up to the second level.
Yes!! Dark Brahma is right!

Thanks for the input, I'm going to take out the feed bucket, but leave the hay, sometimes the girls use it to jump up to the second level.
You're right, the egg boxes would be 3 sf, the feed bucket would be about 1 sf, and the hay bale 3-4 sf. I can take out the hay and feed bucket. On the other hand, wouldn't the second level (18 sf) more than make up for it?
 
Given your climate, and your covered run, I'm thinking you would be ok. Do you consider the run to be predator proof so you can leave it open to the coop 24/7?
Absolutely. The run is completely enclosed in 1/2" hardware cloth with a 2" skirt all the way around. The side yard (30'X4') is not predator proof by any means, however. During the day, the coop and pop door stay open, so they have the coop and run to roam, then when we get home, I open the door to the side yard until it's time to roost.
 
Only if they regularly go up there to hang out. When I had large poop boards my sq footage was destroyed. Mine would neither walk under or go up. They only went up when going to roost.
My roosts were 2' off the floor and there was 18" under the droppings boards. No reason they could not go under. They just never did.

You're right, the egg boxes would be 3 sf, the feed bucket would be about 1 sf, and the hay bale 3-4 sf. I can take out the hay and feed bucket. On the other hand, wouldn't the second level (18 sf) more than make up for it?
 
I think by your math you’re fine for 10 birds. Liked your video; you seem like you are in touch with your chickens and care about them.
If you have the space why not just make that temporary side yard a little wider and just cover the top, then you can have +++ chix...
I have a coop/run combo thats about 320sq ft, started out with half that but just kept adding on to it. I call it my own winchester mansion...
 
Absolutely. The run is completely enclosed in 1/2" hardware cloth with a 2" skirt all the way around. The side yard (30'X4') is not predator proof by any means, however. During the day, the coop and pop door stay open, so they have the coop and run to roam, then when we get home, I open the door to the side yard until it's time to roost.
Just a note- although your run sounds awesome, is your skirt only 2 inches? A skirt needs to be 6 inches or more (usually 12 to 18) to be effective. Just a thought :)
 

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