Maddison
Songster
Hello! I have an incubator exactly like yours! I've found that its very bumpy when it comes to temp and humidity so I feed a fish filter line into the holes on the side directly into the water channels I can add water via the bottle that you get with it, without opening it. this incubator tends to rise in temp when you open it to add water. I keep the humidity at %40-45 first 18 days then %60-65 after day 18. if you press and hold the 'set' button for 3 secs then press again till it says F4 on the humidity dial you can use + and - to adjust the humidity preference, the humid number will be displayed in the temp bar, this will help greatly in maintaining humidity and you won't have to fill it as often. also if the temp rises don't open it just leave it, it will lower in a short time.
if you press the set button once you can also change the temp, I set my temp at 37.3 since it bumps between that and 37.7 which is ideal. the instructions are very difficult to read with this so it took me months to figure out. also its very important that the breeders have at least %16 protein in the diet, otherwise chicks can turn out with splayed and/or crooked toes more likely, which I know from experience is very hard to cope with...
my first round with this was honestly horrible, I had to put down many chicks... due to not being able to understand the incubator and poor breeder diets, plus slippery floor caused splayed leg which I didn't diagnose correctly. this round I've made a partition out of cardboard plus put window netting in the incubator so they don't slip and move around a lot, which very greatly decreases the chance of deformities.
make sure to remove the turning tray and set eggs on there side when you put them in lockdown, also wait till all eggs have hatched OR until 48hrs have passed from the first chick hatching to move into the brooder as opening it when A.) the chick isn't fluffed will cause a chill. and B.) opening it often can caused pipped chicks to shrinkwrap and they won't hatch without help. don't bother in removing egg shells until they have all hatched the less you have it open the better.
in your brooder, have a waterer that there poo and bedding cant get into, water drippers are best. I use wood shavings but if you use sand have the chicks on paper towels for 24 hrs then put them on sand bedding.
lastly, eggs can take up to 25 days to hatch so don't panic and don't assist unless the situation is clearly dire. I speak all of this from my own experience, remember that if something goes wrong with the chick this kind of thing happens and it's not your fault, its all trial and error when it comes to hatching. also, make sure the incubator is in a room with no drafts or sunlight and stays relatively at the same temp! this post is huge so kudos to you if read all the way through!!
if you press the set button once you can also change the temp, I set my temp at 37.3 since it bumps between that and 37.7 which is ideal. the instructions are very difficult to read with this so it took me months to figure out. also its very important that the breeders have at least %16 protein in the diet, otherwise chicks can turn out with splayed and/or crooked toes more likely, which I know from experience is very hard to cope with...
my first round with this was honestly horrible, I had to put down many chicks... due to not being able to understand the incubator and poor breeder diets, plus slippery floor caused splayed leg which I didn't diagnose correctly. this round I've made a partition out of cardboard plus put window netting in the incubator so they don't slip and move around a lot, which very greatly decreases the chance of deformities.
make sure to remove the turning tray and set eggs on there side when you put them in lockdown, also wait till all eggs have hatched OR until 48hrs have passed from the first chick hatching to move into the brooder as opening it when A.) the chick isn't fluffed will cause a chill. and B.) opening it often can caused pipped chicks to shrinkwrap and they won't hatch without help. don't bother in removing egg shells until they have all hatched the less you have it open the better.
in your brooder, have a waterer that there poo and bedding cant get into, water drippers are best. I use wood shavings but if you use sand have the chicks on paper towels for 24 hrs then put them on sand bedding.
lastly, eggs can take up to 25 days to hatch so don't panic and don't assist unless the situation is clearly dire. I speak all of this from my own experience, remember that if something goes wrong with the chick this kind of thing happens and it's not your fault, its all trial and error when it comes to hatching. also, make sure the incubator is in a room with no drafts or sunlight and stays relatively at the same temp! this post is huge so kudos to you if read all the way through!!
can't. Was front pager but don't have photo
As a kid in Ohio we moved to a house near a lake. My friend and I thought we'd do the ducks a favor and round up duck eggs to raise ourselves so they'll be safe. I feel terrible to this day about that. I had maybe five eggs, and of course none hatched.
thanks in advance 
