Any Pro-tips on Trapping/Removing Raccoons

BTW to address the original topic about trapping ... if you intention is to parole those offenses to Jesus once they are caught a few Dog proof leg hold traps IMHO will do a better job then live traps and as a rule cost less then even the cheapo live traps , super easy to use also
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BTW to address the original topic about trapping ... if you intention is to parole those offenses to Jesus once they are caught a few Dog proof leg hold traps IMHO will do a better job then live traps and as a rule cost less then even the cheapo live traps , super easy to use also
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We have one dog proof paw trap, and it has successfully caught one GIANT male raccoon. The live trap hasn't caught anything. So I think I will be taking your advice and just stick with the paw trap.
 
For every 164' stretch / length of fencing, 0.5 Joules. Look at how the chargers are described at store. Some parties are more into voltage method of measure. Do not use charger more powerful than 2 Joules.

Random question- why should I not use a charger more powerful than 2 joules? My husband is looking into chargers and requested that I ask (and I know nothing about ANY of this). Thank you so very much!
 
Random question- why should I not use a charger more powerful than 2 joules? My husband is looking into chargers and requested that I ask (and I know nothing about ANY of this). Thank you so very much!
More powerful chargers will fry the netting. The netting inherently has a lot of shorts and the wires doing the conducting are small and delicate.
 
This is a bit technical, but does a good of explaining theory......

http://www.kencove.com/fence/7_Volts+vs.+Joules_resource.php

The article references "weed burner" fencers, which likely could melt some of the new poly fences. Thankfully, most low impedance fencers sold today don't have that feature.

I run a 3 joule fencer on short lengths of poly tape fence, and have not had any issues related to too much power on it. If you use wires, there is no concern about high powered, hot fences.

In the end, goal should be to test somewhere between 5,000 and 7,000 volts on the fence. My preference is to "light em up". I don't get many customers coming back for seconds.
 
I'm located in AZ in a suburban neighborhood. I have one paw trap and one live trap set, and so far the paw trap has caught one raccoon (but now I KNOW there is another one lurking around my house). I haven't had much success with a live trap, which is baited with marshmallows. Perhaps I'll give PB and J a shot.
A can of cat food works for me but I live in the sticks and don't have house cats running around. I've caught coons and bobcat this way.
 
This is a bit technical, but does a good of explaining theory......

http://www.kencove.com/fence/7_Volts+vs.+Joules_resource.php

The article references "weed burner" fencers, which likely could melt some of the new poly fences. Thankfully, most low impedance fencers sold today don't have that feature.

I run a 3 joule fencer on short lengths of poly tape fence, and have not had any issues related to too much power on it. If you use wires, there is no concern about high powered, hot fences.

In the end, goal should be to test somewhere between 5,000 and 7,000 volts on the fence. My preference is to "light em up". I don't get many customers coming back for seconds.
Having netting with wires capacity for more power will also be ungainly owing to weight and stiffness. If conducting material of fencing was a super conductor and flexible then you may not have such problems.
 
When you buy electrified poultry netting, or any rope or tape, find out from the source what's the maximum charger to use. Premier1supplies has great advice and products!
I agree that the strongest 'zap' is the best!
Mary
 
Does anyone have any experience with electric fencing and chargers that isn't poultry netting per-chance? Like electric fencing wire?
(have I mentioned you all are awesome? I really appreciate all the wonderful advice)
 

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