are there any mechanisms out there to help prevent overheating during incubation??? like an emergenc

Msbear

Fancy Banties
11 Years
May 8, 2008
4,591
139
286
Sharpsburg, MD.
I've lost a few rounds of eggs here recently and I'm about ready to go crazy. I have the typical wafer thermostat system and have had great hatches. Earlier this spring I cooked about 100 + eggs and got so sick I hung up the hatching for a while. I bought some new wafers and planned to change out each year to avoid the heart ache.... well, everyone started laying again so I fired the bator back up after I cleaned it well and replaced the wafer with the new one. It worked great for about 17 days
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then...
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I'm devastated again but, ready to figure out what's going on. I'm ready to buy the whole system including new thermostat AND wafer but, I have a couple of questions.

#1 Is there a mechanism that you can install in the incubator that would prevent this from ever happening again? like an automatic cut off that would kick in as a last resort BEFORE my temps reach 130 degrees?

#2 Is there a test to perform on a wafer to check whether it's bad? ...And

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks,

Majorly PO'd in MD.
 
One problem with the wafer thermostats is the micro switch can stick in the on position. Older style cabinet incubators ran duel wafer thermostats wired in series . If the primary thermostat set at 99.5 degs stuck on, the second thermostat was set to limited the temp to around 101 degs.
 
since you have the replacement wafers, make a second switch with a normally closed switch. set that switch at 101 degrees as mentioned above. when the wafer pushes on the normally closed switch it opens the circuit and stops the heat.
 
since you have the replacement wafers, make a second switch with a normally closed switch. set that switch at 101 degrees as mentioned above. when the wafer pushes on the normally closed switch it opens the circuit and stops the heat.

That is the way to go, I would replace the microswitch in the old unit. If you want to go electronic, they are great and dont ever stick.
 
can you guys recommend an electronic one? If it's too expensive, I may go the dual switch in a series option cause is just horrible. I raise bantams and am knee deep in two really nice projects and was excited to get two generations of improvement this year... AND, my girls aren't huge producers... so each one is precious to me. Thanks so much
 
can you guys recommend an electronic one? If it's too expensive, I may go the dual switch in a series option cause is just horrible. I raise bantams and am knee deep in two really nice projects and was excited to get two generations of improvement this year... AND, my girls aren't huge producers... so each one is precious to me. Thanks so much
there are some reasonably priced heating units and thermostats on ebay. personally i dont like the fully electronic ones, they typically arent accurate and dont last long. when one part burns out the whole thing is done.

if you decide to go with the dual wafer setup i can walk you though installing it. ill try to help if you go with an electronic unit too, if needed.
 
can you guys recommend an electronic one? If it's too expensive, I may go the dual switch in a series option cause is just horrible. I raise bantams and am knee deep in two really nice projects and was excited to get two generations of improvement this year... AND, my girls aren't huge producers... so each one is precious to me. Thanks so much

I have some high quality digital electronic controllers, they are great, I get $40 for them. I am not sure if the website allows sales, if not I withdraw the offer. These do work good, rock solid, and accurate.
 
I just ordered two new switches and 2 wafers... gonna try the series thing... I like them cause their simple and easy to fix. I may need some assistance, "loveourbirds" chat with you guys soon. Thanks!
 
i will gladly help.

did you make sure to get one of the switches normally closed and one normally open?

edited to add: the next post is right, they are supposed to be both normally closed switches. i really dont know what i was thinking
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Both switches should be the regular, normally closed type , wired in series . That way the backup thermostat can break the circuit if the primary sticks in the on position preventing overheating. At least that is the way they are usually wired.
 

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