Find someone with a goat to try the milk first. I hear it is significantly different in flavor and much sweeter from a higher buttermilk content. That's why it's used for cheese so much. It yields more cheese per gallon. Breeds vary dramatically, too.
There are various factors that can affect the flavor as well, not just the breed, but what they are fed plays a big role. Think about goats grazing in a pasture with wild onions. If they eat a lot of wild onions, the milk will taste like onions. Also if you have a buck in the pen, the milk can pick up a bucky odor/flavor--not good. Goat's milk needs to be chilled down rapidly after milking, if this is not done, it will not taste good. We used to put ours in the freezer for a rapid chill down before putting in the frig.
And speaking of bucks, that is another issue: breeding. No kids, no milk. Yes you can buy a doe in milk, but she will dry up over time. Most people will let the kids have all the milk for the first month, then gradually start weaning them. Milk the does for about 9 months, then dry them up so they have a break for a few months before kidding again.
When I got my first goats, I was semi-clueless about the added costs associated. You must weigh all these factors ahead of time and decide if you are ready for the expenses and commitment. Here are some examples, not necessarily in order of importance:
1. Breeding: My experience with having my own buck started out good but went sour. Bought the first buck. He was fine. Bucks SMELL!
Had a blue-eyed doe and got a boy kid from her with blue eyes and decided to keep him unneutered, figured he could keep the other buck company. It is not a good idea to house the bucks with the does. The buck will pester them ALL the time. With 2 bucks, I guess because of the competition, the first one started to moan and moan at the does (in the pen next to his) and he would keep it up all day. It drove me nuts. If I were to do it over, I would have the buck pen way out of sight and smell of the does. Not easy to do.
So if you do not want your own buck (which is a good idea), know ahead of time that you will be able to get your does bred. And I purposely put does in plural, because to be a responsible goat keeper, you need at least two. Goats are herd animals and need company. Would you keep just one chicken in a pen by herself? NO! Neither should you have a lonely goat. Many reputable breeders will not stud your doe unless she has been tested to be free of a variety of communicable goat diseases. More expense. Oh, and you want milk, right? Well just like any animal, good breeding matters. Some people work to get nice udders and high production from their goats. Other people just have backyard goats. Which one do you want to choose for your goat stud?
2. Housing: Goats are notorious escape artists. Unless you want NO landscape, you want them contained. There is also a long list of plants poisonous to goats, many you might have in your own yard. They need very sturdy fencing. I put up 9 gauge chain link pens. Regular residential chain link is 11 to 11.5 gauge. 9 gauge is HEAVY, and the does still managed to bow it by constant rubbing against the fence. And these were small goats, Nigerian Dwarfs.
3. Equipment: the list of ancillary supplies is a lot longer than I had imagined, and buying new, they sure can add up.
---You need a good milking stand. You can build your own if handy, but the materials still add up plus time to build it.
---You don't want a lot of hair in your milk. That means shaving the udder. If you don't already have one for a dog, then you need to buy
a good animal shaver.
---You need a good iodine disinfectant to wash the udder before and after milking. Plus filters and a funnel for filtering the milk.
---You will have kids born and will need to think about what you will do with them. Most people neuter the males and sell them as
wethers. So then you need the equipment (and guts) to do that, unless you want to pay a vet
---Goats grow horns and it is a good idea to dehorn them as babies. Some people leave them on, but they can hurt themselves
and you or your kids. Maybe not intentionally. So you need a good dehorning instrument and have to learn how to use it.
----You need a good pair of clippers to trim their hooves. Left untrimmed, they can become lame.
----Vaccinations are recommended yearly, prior to kidding so the babies have maternal antibodies.
----Do you have a vet near you who knows anything about goats? Some do, most don't.
----Then there is another big list of what to keep on hand "just in case" when it is time for the goat to kid
4. Feeding: You want to drink the milk, make cheese, yogurt etc. Well junk in, junk out! Feed your goat well. Good grain = increased milk production. Alfalfa has doubled in price since I had my goats, and now they have allowed GMO alfalfa, so you have to worry about that now, too. You can't expect to just let your goat eat weeds and have good milk.
5. Vacation: Forget it. Or time it for when your goats are dry. Maybe you are lucky and have a friend/neighbor who will milk for you twice a day while you are gone. But consider this before making a decision.
#6 through 10~ How many things have I forgotten? I hope this helps any of you considering keeping your own goats. It is always best to go into something new with eyes open.
. I just loved the raw goat milk when we had goats and the Nigerian Dwarf breed that we had has the highest butterfat, plus being a small breed dairy goat, they are easier to handle, house, and feed. But having milk goats will really tie you down, that's why I sold them. Now I am tied down with more poultry than I had when I kept the goats....all the goat pens were converted into turkey pens! Then I wanted more breeds of turkeys, so divided 2 of the goat pens in half, to make 4 turkey pens. Is it never ending? 
