Attaching hardware cloth to wood with stapler gun?

[R Wind]

It's as strong as the screw is. If the screw is in securely then you're good.

On the subject of screws. And in the application of cedar wood.

The "PrimeGuard" exterior screws by GripRite at Home Depot really bite well into these cedar fence pickets. They have a gray anti-rust coating and are very well-formed. Very good holding power. Beautifully pull the wood together. Never strip so far.

The sandwich we made of two fence pickets with hardware cloth between was not quite 1.5inch thick, and the PrimeGuard Screws we'd used on the first panel were a tad too long... there wasn't a short enough PrimeGuard screw or at least in stock.

So we went and bought a bunch of other slightly shorter exterior screws. But they just would NOT hold, and stripped out. They weren't secure. A real pain. Wasted a LOT of our time. After struggling and trying to use them on the second panel we built, we pulled them back out, and put the boxes back into a bag to return.

Then, we returned to using the PrimeGuard screws. Just the tip of the screw sticks out on the other side sometimes, and we'll have to cut them off. But that future effort being worth it is how bad these other exterior screws were.

(Probably cut the little tips off with a bi-metal blade on an oscillating tool - any other suggestions? The cedar is too soft to use a regular angle grinder, it gouges the wood around the screw. The screws are hardened... )

 

[Smokerbill]

On the subject of screws. And in the application of cedar wood.

The "PrimeGuard" exterior screws by GripRite at Home Depot really bite well into these cedar fence pickets. They have a gray anti-rust coating and are very well-formed. Very good holding power. Beautifully pull the wood together. Never strip so far.

The sandwich we made of two fence pickets with hardware cloth between was not quite 1.5inch thick, and the PrimeGuard Screws we'd used on the first panel were a tad too long... there wasn't a short enough PrimeGuard screw or at least in stock.

So we went and bought a bunch of other slightly shorter exterior screws. But they just would NOT hold, and stripped out. They weren't secure. A real pain. Wasted a LOT of our time. After struggling and trying to use them on the second panel we built, we pulled them back out, and put the boxes back into a bag to return.

Then, we returned to using the PrimeGuard screws. Just the tip of the screw sticks out on the other side sometimes, and we'll have to cut them off. But that future effort being worth it is how bad these other exterior screws were.

(Probably cut the little tips off with a bi-metal blade on an oscillating tool - any other suggestions? The cedar is too soft to use a regular angle grinder, it gouges the wood around the screw. The screws are hardened... )
View attachment 3499707

Drive the screws in at an angle. Try different angles until you find the one that works without exiting the other side.

 

[MakoMark]

@MakoMark could you please tell me which pin nailer at H. Freight you are referring to?

We have their Banks 23g brand pin nailer, bought some years ago, and were impressed enough with the construction of the tool that when we bought a second brad nailer, we bought the Banks 18g for trim to replace our old expensive name brand nailer.

So we're looking for something that will staple welded wire at the bottom of the run boards, to make the 24" apron on the ground around the run -- for predator digging prevention.

I had not thought of using a pneumatic tool for this -- we were thinking to use electrical staples. Then I've seen notes of those popping out?
Seems you had great success with pneumatic which would save a LOT of labor. But I expected you to say you used a stapler not a pin nailer.

I've also seen mention of "POULTRY STAPLES" somewhere on this forum and wonder what in the world they are?

Sorry not to reply until now I was hang gliding in Cali. I bought the nailer/ stapler for $19 20 years ago. It is Central Pneumatic name but looks much like the one they sell today.

 

[R Wind]

We bordered the little screw-in clips linked above to attach the welded wire to the skirt board. Attached them while the board was flat on a table, then let the wire droop down.

Installed so the clips are on the inside of the run, and the welded wire apron is held down on the ground under the board.

 

[Smokerbill]

We bordered the little screw-in clips linked above to attach the welded wire to the skirt board. Attached them while the board was flat on a table, then let the wire droop down.

Installed so the clips are on the inside of the run, and the welded wire apron is held down on the ground under the board. View attachment 3509980

I kind of installed my skirting the same way, but I used my air stapler to attach the hardware cloth to the bottom of the skirting board, using my pickup tailgate as a workbench. Then I nailed the skirting board to the run baseboard. I try to drive in the staples so they go diagonally across where the HWC wires cross, so the staple catches both wires at the junction.

 

[R Wind]

I appreciate the recommendations for a pneumatic stapler, and we probably will purchase one, could have used it earlier in this job. Will save hands in future, I am sure we have more stapling wire in our future. These stainless clips just seemed right this time.

 

[Mouthpear]

I am having difficulties attaching hardware cloth to wood using a standard manual hand stapler gun made by Stanley. Either it jams or the staple won't go all the way in the wood. Would getting an electric stapler gun made by Ryobi Ryobi stapler gun from Home Depot provide better results? Or am I using the stapler gun in an incorrect manner? Am I supposed to lean my weight on the gun as I staple the hardware cloth? Also, the Stanley stapler gun keeps jamming.

I personally would NOT use a stapler, for the most part. I wood use would trimming, Over the cloth and screw it down.

 

[BastyPutt]

Predators like raccoons are strong enough to rip out staples.
It is more work, but screws with fender washers are much stronger.

I just use 5000 staples per inch - washers are probably a better idea

I watched a video of a fox trying to get into a hen house once and the strength was incredible. I fear if I had one of those here I and my flock would be in trouble.

 

[BastyPutt]

Those small staples are inadequate.

You need a fence stapler that you run off your air compressor.

View attachment 3397184
View attachment 3397196
View attachment 3397186

Or the screws with fender washers that Dobie recommended.

Mind blowing. THEY MAKE A GUN FOR THIS!?!?

I don't know how many times I have smashed my fingers or hit one of these and they fly off and stab me when trying to install them.

Purchasing immediately.

 

[Mouthpear]

I kind of installed my skirting the same way, but I used my air stapler to attach the hardware cloth to the bottom of the skirting board, using my pickup tailgate as a workbench. Then I nailed the skirting board to the run baseboard. I try to drive in the staples so they go diagonally across where the HWC wires cross, so the staple catches both wires at the junction.

View attachment 3510041

You would be better off using 1x2 welded wire fencing. That hardware cloth is not meant to for ground contact. I will rot out. Welded wire will too eventually but will last MUCH longer and is much stronger. A little more expensive but if you do your coop/tractor with this also it be a good idea.

What I use,
YARDGARD 2 ft. x 25 ft. 1 in. x 2 in. Mesh 14-Gauge Cage Wire Fence
Other Options,
YARDGARD 24 in. x 15 ft. 1 in. x 1 in. Mesh 16-Gauge Welded Wire Fence
YARDGARD 25 ft. x 2 ft. Welded Wire Fence with 2 in. x 1 in. Mesh
IronRidge 24in H x 50ft L Welded Wire Fence with 1 in. x 2 in. Openings

IronRidge 50 ft. x 24 in. Welded Wire Fence with 1 in. x 1 in. Openings

It is what I use around my CoopTractor,