Authentic Woods KD (Knock Down) 10' by 16' Coop Build

[ChickenLittle5]

The Woods coop I built does everything and more that I hoped for.

I closed the side and monitor windows as required in late November, I did not cover the front windows at all; I did have some slight intrusion of snow along the front floor in situations with high winds, this disappeared within a few hours some from evaporation some from the birds mucking about. I had no sign of frost inside the coop.

As you can see my run is currently limited to the space underneath, I tarped 90% of the HC as well as the ramp enclosure. Use of this space decreased significantly especially when temperatures went below -20C but it was still used.

My birds suffered a very small amount of frost bite, always on days when the temperatures were -25C or lower. However, nothing significant.

"If you were to do it again...". I am already planning a 2nd Wood's coop, this one will be 8' by 12' and mobile. I plan on getting purebred White Chanteclers (well suited to my climate and Canada's original "home grown" breed). I will separate as I plan to sell eggs or chicks or pullets to contribute to perpetuation of this heritage breed.

I strongly recommend building using the original method as I did. It is less expensive and quicker than using modern stick framing and produces a very strong building that can be dismantled if necessary. If you proceed do not build anything smaller than 8' by 12' and maintain the wall heights specified for the 10' by 16' KD in the book (being able to stand up and move around inside is a huge gift).

I am more than happy to answer any questions you may have as you proceed.

Best of luck and enjoy, chickens are awesome!!!

Thank you. I may very well come back to ask questions. My husband will do most of the building, so I'll pass along your suggestion to use the original method. Since he is doing most of the work, I'll let him make the final decision though.

 

[Ted Brown]

Thank you. I may very well come back to ask questions. My husband will do most of the building, so I'll pass along your suggestion to use the original method. Since he is doing most of the work, I'll let him make the final decision though.

I would be happy to talk to your husband about the build method. It is much simpler that using stick framing, provides more flexibility with respect to where windows, doors go, cheaper (did I say cheaper) and proven by 100 years of use. If he is interested just PM me and I will send my cell #.

 

[3D_UI]

Installed the rest of the foundation frame, braces yet needed.

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Hi Ted, I'm building an 10x16 Woods based on your documentation. Thank you so much for the good walkthrough and photos.

Can you tell me what the metallic things are in these photos, sitting atop the side beams? Some type of flashing? What's the purpose?

 

[Ted Brown]

Hi Ted, I'm building an 10x16 Woods based on your documentation. Thank you so much for the good walkthrough and photos.

Can you tell me what the metallic things are in these photos, sitting atop the side beams? Some type of flashing? What's the purpose?

Welcome to BYC, great site lots of folks who can/will answer any question you may have.

Two original purposes: shed water that may run down the walls; more importantly to deter any critters that decide they want to chew their way through. They are 6" wide, sitting on 4" by 4" squares that form the support structure and go all around that frame. I think both the elevation and the flashing have contributed to keeping the coop free of any intrusions.

There is at least one other person who did a Woods using the original design in Woods' book. As stated I followed the instructions/measurements almost exactly and would do it again; easier to build than conventional framing and certainly less expensive.

One small hiccup is my pop door: the center horizontal 2 x 3 on the front side panels end up a little over 12" high. If one wants to install an automated pop door they are vertical and upwards of 24" high so will not fit unless you create specific framing to accommodate. If you place the pop door on the front there is no issue.

I spent a fair bit of time documenting how I went about the build to encourage others to try the approach. Alas most continue with convention stick framing; always happy when someone decides to follow Woods' design. Also happy to answer any questions you may have.

I assume you have a copy of Woods' book, if not let me now and I will send an electronic copy along.

Best of luck!

 

[jthornton]

I assume you have a copy of Woods' book, if not let me now and I will send an electronic copy along.

I have a cleaned up copy Modern Fresh Air Poultry House by Prince T Woods you can download
JT

 

[3D_UI]

I have a cleaned up copy Modern Fresh Air Poultry House by Prince T Woods you can download
JT

JT, many thanks for the cleaned up book. It's nice to finally see a picture of Prince himself!

Ted, thank you for yet more good info about the flashing and automatic door positioning.
I must admit that I'm planning to go mostly stick-framed, as this coop is the first structure I've built, and I'm curious to learn the basics of framing a building, the conventional/contemporary/expensive way. I've got family who could use a hand with framing renovations in the future, and I'd like to know the lingo and practices.

Your documentation of the foundation and floor framing has been really valuable to my planning. Often that stage seems to be omitted from build photos, and Woods doesn't go into terrible detail about it. I'm going to be mirroring your ~2' elevation, on deck blocks. (aside: I spent a silly amount of time figuring out how much gravel was needed under each deck block, and it seems like 3-4 inches is sufficient.)

I am fortunate to have a sawmill nearby that provides rough-cut lumber. I'm in the Northeast US where nearly everything is pine. Acknowledging our different framing approaches, are you able to shed any light on which framing members really should be pressure-treated? I probably missed your text explaining this, but it appears that most of your foundation framing isn't pressure treated. Would love any thoughts you have on this! And whether painting / other finishing treatment is worthwhile to prevent rot.

Thanks again for this whole thread, and all the other replies of yours I've seen on this site!

 

[Ted Brown]

@3D_UI I did not use PT anywhere believing that my elevation of 3'+ made it unnecessary.

Pine is very common here and that is what I used, barns built with it back in the day lasted 100 years or more.

 

[raingarden]

That is an amazing piece of work Ted.

I don't know what it's like up there, but in the Southeast U.S. the pine of a century ago is nothing like the pine of today. Hardness and resin has been sacrificed for fast growth.

 

[Ted Brown]

That is an amazing piece of work Ted.

I don't know what it's like up there, but in the Southeast U.S. the pine of a century ago is nothing like the pine of today. Hardness and resin has been sacrificed for fast growth.

Thank you, I am good at following instructions and Woods does provide all that is needed to do the build one just has to dig a bit.

I am certain that our pine of today is similar as yours but that is one of the woods that PT is made from. We get 20-25 years when using PT above the ground, I am hoping to get that from evelated pine. Also the Woods design is a kit and any board or even panel can be "easily" replaced. Also price of PT these days is 2-3 times rough cut pine.

 

[raingarden]

Thank you, I am good at following instructions and Woods does provide all that is needed to do the build one just has to dig a bit.

I am certain that our pine of today is similar as yours but that is one of the woods that PT is made from. We get 20-25 years when using PT above the ground, I am hoping to get that from evelated pine. Also the Woods design is a kit and any board or even panel can be "easily" replaced. Also price of PT these days is 2-3 times rough cut pine.

You're lucky to be so close to the source. We'd kill to get lumber at those prices.

Here in the Pacific, we have plenty of moisture, termtes and wood rot problems. Exposed to the elements with ground contact, the life of a piece of borate pressure treated #2 Doug fir is five to seven years. Paint helps a lot with the rot, but does not deter the termintes.

I like to think we can get 20-25 years under a good roof, but am sometimes disappointed.