Automatic Door Failure in Cold Weather

My husband tested the battery and it seemed to be holding a charge just fine (no dead cells). I also have it hooked up to solar cells for recharging but my husband (electrical engineering guy) says they are too weak to transmit much power, plus the coop really isn't in a full sun location. I did notice today in the warmer weather (upper 40's) that the door had a lot more pep. So now I'm thinking, due to the comments on here, that I need a battery that is resistant to cold temperatures. Any one have any ideas for what and where I'd find a 12 volt like that?
 
I've been reading up on automatic doors here on BYC. There is one where the person says they are tired of going out in the rain. The responses say there can be a problem with the cold. Look it up. There is some interesting information including how to keep the battery good.
 
I live in northern minn. Cold kills the charge in batteries. Any moving parts using grease will fail because hard grease will not lubricate. I use pure silicone grease and spray on door seals, plastic waters (not the parts in contact with drinking water), all contact points. silicone will stay soft and lubricate and ice will not stick. I use it on car door seals, snow blower chute, house door seals, etc. (everything).
 
In my humble opinion, the best way to have a worry free battery is to run electricity to the coop and plug it in. Just sayin'
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I had my auto door freeze up the other day. I have a new marine deep cycle battery. CCA's are not important as the doors don't draw many amps. Just as long as it holds 12 volts when really really cold.

I took a heater to my door mechanism & it has worked fine every since. My door is exposed to the weather so I think it iced up some.

In any case -the only fix for you is to run juice to it or get another battery. I have both - trickle charger on my battery. that keeps it in tip top shape.
 
CCA's are not important as the doors don't draw many amps.

CCAs are really a measure of how well your batt. will perform in the cold. And if the door is freezing then it is not a batt. issue.​
 
Quote:
CCAs are really a measure of how well your batt. will perform in the cold. And if the door is freezing then it is not a batt. issue.

Agreed. But cranking amps are a measure of how many amps will be available at cold temps for your car starter.

Pop doors dont draw amps - so a small car battery will be just as good to a pop door as a large one.

personally I chose a marine deep cycle because it holds more engergy though it has fewer amps.
 
Quote:
CCAs are really a measure of how well your batt. will perform in the cold. And if the door is freezing then it is not a batt. issue.

Agreed. But cranking amps are a measure of how many amps will be available at cold temps for your car starter.

Pop doors dont draw amps - so a small car battery will be just as good to a pop door as a large one.

personally I chose a marine deep cycle because it holds more engergy though it has fewer amps.

No not really. A battery that isn't rated for good cold amps will loose most of it potential pretty quickly regardless of what it is operating. A car battery is not what is needed when not hook to a trickle charger or a smart maintainer. A deep cycle battery is what is needed. They are designed to be run down and recharged repeatedly. Camper batteries and trolling motors are good examples. You would have to get a good one though because even camper and trolling motors batteries are not really meant for extreme weather. I would recommend a gel battery if you have extended cold weather.
 

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