Automatic pop door

[G-Man]

Hi, I've added a few images to my profile page of the Automatic pop door I made. The only thing I still need to do is mount a cover to conceal the motor and electrical outlet. Thanks for looking.

Materials:
1 Veranda .920”X5.250”X12’ plastic/wood composite decking material
1 Add-A-Motor D-20
1 Electrical outlet box to mount inside the frame
1 20 amp electrical outlet
1 Refrigerator switch Servalite 780-101U (this is wired to an outside light to confirm the pop door is operating properly. If the light is on the door is closed, if it's off the door is open)
2 thin 12”x18” zinc coated sheet metal
5/8”X6’ aluminum U channel
7/16”X12”X18” plywood.
1 small eye screw and retainer nuts
1 In-wall programmable timer Honeywell RPL2740B
Contact cement
Misc screws





Updated pics March 22, 2012

 

[hangartnerchix]

Neat!

 

[Rooster76]

I would recommend putting a small board on the outside bottom of the door opening that they will step over when open. Basically to stop racoons from being able to get there little paws under your door and lift it up. I was looking to make one myself a couple years ago and remember someone haveing a raccon able to lift it from the outside, so they came up with that fix.

How much did this all cost?

 

[fireguy56]

Nice job, sure it works well. Here is my version.

 

[G-Man]

I would recommend putting a small board on the outside bottom of the door opening that they will step over when open. Basically to stop racoons from being able to get there little paws under your door and lift it up. I was looking to make one myself a couple years ago and remember someone haveing a raccon able to lift it from the outside, so they came up with that fix.

How much did this all cost?

Dang, that was a really bad picture I posted. I'll have to take a better one tomorrow.
I read something about raccoon's being able to get their grubby little fingers underneath too. So I used my router to cut a .650 wide and .375 deep dado up both sides and in the bottom plate. This material cut like butter, very easy to work with, and it's waterproof.. I'm looking for other reasons to use this material again.
The Motor is the most expensive component at about $100 shipped. The Veranda material is $17.00 at Home Depot. I had the 1/2" plywood, that I used as the core of the door then skinned it with the sheet metal ($4.97 x 2) on each side. I used the Aluminum "U" channel ($9.39) to give the edges a clean smooth edge to ride inside the dado grooves. I secured it to the wood with screws from the edges, so they wouldn't be seen. The white switch ($12) is wired to an outside porch light on the coop that comes on when the door is closed. Makes for a quick security check.

So to answer you question, you could build it for $136.33 without the switch or $148.33 with. Even cheaper if you just used an 1/8" sheet of sheet metal for the door.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

[G-Man]

Nice job, sure it works well. Here is my version.

Thank you. Your's looks great. I like your idea of using the metal L stock for the guides.
Those little motors sure work great don't they.

 

[rpchris]

If you really want to keep the raccoons out, then add a locking mechanism. Here's mine, it works like a champ.

 

[G-Man]

That's Awesome!
I've seen that idea used a few times before but never that clean. Nice job.

 

[lesgo54]

thats a awesome door setup. thanks for sharing

 

[G-Man]

thats a awesome door setup. thanks for sharing

Thank you.
I did plenty of research before I started. I especially liked the one Fleming Outdoors is selling, but with shipping it was more than I was willing to spend.
More rewarding making it myself too. Plus I was able to make a few modifications to suit my needs/wants.