Avoiding Brooder Escapees

chicksofclaridon

Songster
Jan 21, 2019
53
61
101
Ohio
Hello!
I am getting my brooder ready and I’m wondering if I need to add something along the sides for extra security, so they can’t hop out.

This will be my second time getting chicks- since I already have several adult hens, I’m using a dog crate as a brooder this time around so that in a few weeks I can place it out in my coop and the old gals and newbies can all get acquainted safely.

I’ve put cardboard around the edges to attempt to keep the bedding in and prevent them from slipping through the bars. I expect this should be ok for the first few days or week, but I’m wondering if they are going to be able to hop onto the feeder/waterer and get through the bars above the cardboard, or if they will be too big to fit before they’re that adventurous.

I’m looking for ideas as to what I could use around the outside perimeter so they can’t escape through the bars. I don’t want to do chicken wire or hardware cloth. Any input is appreciated!

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Patiently waiting to be a big brother!
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I use a dog kennel also. I do the cardboard also, I put it about half way up I haven’t had one escape yet.. I recently added hard wire cloth to the outside just to keep the cat from thinking they are play toys..
 
What is the width between the bars?
Any input is appreciated!
Good you are measuring the temp where the light is pointed.
Also check the other end of brooder to make sure they have a cooler place to be.
Maybe you know that.

.... and this...but...

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
-If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
-If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
-If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. If you do use a heat bulb make sure it's specifically for poultry, some heat bulbs for food have teflon coatings that can kill birds. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.

Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate
 
What is the width between the bars?
Good you are measuring the temp where the light is pointed.
Also check the other end of brooder to make sure they have a cooler place to be.
Maybe you know that.

.... and this...but...

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
-If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
-If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
-If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. If you do use a heat bulb make sure it's specifically for poultry, some heat bulbs for food have teflon coatings that can kill birds. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.

Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate
Thank you!! I think I have the swing of it this time around but man I wish I knew about all of this/this site my first time having chicks!!
 

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