B.Y.C. Dorking Club!

Hey April,
This is a pretty high level explanation that I tried not to make very technical. I hope it makes sense, but isn't too simplistic.

A breed is made up of a number of characteristics that stay stable over a long period of time. Within a breed, there might be some variation on a particular trait; in animals, these variations are often called varieties (or cultivars in plants). People have been breeding animals and plants for a long, long time to nail down specific breeds, and specific varieties within those breeds.
The varieties can show up when a "sport" or mutation occurs; other times people crossbreed to get some particular attribute into the gene pool on which they are working. They try to breed out the qualities they don't like, and breed in the ones they think are worthwhile.
Think of puppies: black Labradors and chocolate Labradors are both Labradors (a breed), but have two different color variations. They aren't different breeds, but we say they are different varieties. (Technically, the chocolate color is the result of a gene/allele that "dumbs down", or "softens" the black color. We call that "diluted".)

Dorkings are a very, very old breed. For at least a couple of millennia, people have been breeding chickens that were similar to Dorkings for characteristics that they found useful or attractive. For instance, we know that the original Dorking color was red (RD). The RD coloration is pretty close to the ancestral color, the "wild" or "standard" color of the very first chickens.
A long time ago, a bird with mostly Dorking characteristics hatched with different coloration; my guess is that it was probably a colored (CD), which is just a gene or so away from the RD. Somebody thought it looked cool, so they tried to get another one. People did this so many times that they ended up with a strain of bird that always produced CDs when bred with another CD. Eventually this strain became a "standard" variety.
We know that the Silver Grey Dorkings (SGDs) were bred from CDs. My guess is that the Dark Colored Dorkings (DCDs) were bred from CDs, too. I don't know the history of White Dorkings (WDs; Joseph?), but my guess is that it happened in a similar way.

I hope this helps.
 
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Hey Karen, excellent explanation!
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April, hope you have a better idea now.
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I'm glad none of us started talking about the Cuckoos, Spangled, etc. :) I've kinda been lusting after some Spangleds... even if they aren't recognized anywhere.
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Wow April! When you get this all processed out... you're going to have to do a LOT of explaining for me.
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I am familiar with horse colors as you are with Lab colors. I have a ton of homework to do. My first goal is body type even though my CD's are getting very vivid colors. My birds appear to be a little too leggy. They all have the cinder block shape with a few differences in overall size and I was able to pick up two more pullets. One CD & one SG. I'm hoping that they will be a little on the shorter side. So, I am assuming from reading all of the previous posts, my best bet would be to cull for shorter legged larger bodied chicks and work the color issue out after I am satisfied they are closer to the standard.

I will be breeding on a small scale as I can't facilitate a larger operation. My birds are young still, is it possible that they go through what would appear to be a leggy stage??? When breeding horses, foals go through a leggy stage so I hope it doesn't sound too silly.

I still have 4 cockerels to choose from at this point and can't make my mind up on how many to keep so that I may rotate them into my program for diversity. After I select for best body type, would I then make a selection on legs?

In what order do you look at first to cull from your stock? Feet, Body, height, combs, color??? I know there is more to keep track of down the line such as productivity, fertility, broody, etc. I did read the article that was recommended by Don Schrieder and I am still in the developing my plan stage. Being that my birds are still very young, I have some time. I don't have an incubator which I realize will slow down my production as well since I will be relying on my hens to hatch. I may need to just break down and make the investment with only 3 pullets to work with. I'm just not confident that I will be very successful at it and know my hatch rate might be better as long as my girls have their natural instincts.

Thanks in advance....
-Amy
 
yes most chickens go threw a teenager stage where there bones grow faster then the muscle to fill them out do... so they will look tall and skinny for a month or 2...
Wow April! When you get this all processed out... you're going to have to do a LOT of explaining for me.
big_smile.png


I am familiar with horse colors as you are with Lab colors. I have a ton of homework to do. My first goal is body type even though my CD's are getting very vivid colors. My birds appear to be a little too leggy. They all have the cinder block shape with a few differences in overall size and I was able to pick up two more pullets. One CD & one SG. I'm hoping that they will be a little on the shorter side. So, I am assuming from reading all of the previous posts, my best bet would be to cull for shorter legged larger bodied chicks and work the color issue out after I am satisfied they are closer to the standard.

I will be breeding on a small scale as I can't facilitate a larger operation. My birds are young still, is it possible that they go through what would appear to be a leggy stage??? When breeding horses, foals go through a leggy stage so I hope it doesn't sound too silly.

I still have 4 cockerels to choose from at this point and can't make my mind up on how many to keep so that I may rotate them into my program for diversity. After I select for best body type, would I then make a selection on legs?

In what order do you look at first to cull from your stock? Feet, Body, height, combs, color??? I know there is more to keep track of down the line such as productivity, fertility, broody, etc. I did read the article that was recommended by Don Schrieder and I am still in the developing my plan stage. Being that my birds are still very young, I have some time. I don't have an incubator which I realize will slow down my production as well since I will be relying on my hens to hatch. I may need to just break down and make the investment with only 3 pullets to work with. I'm just not confident that I will be very successful at it and know my hatch rate might be better as long as my girls have their natural instincts.

Thanks in advance....
-Amy
 
Wow April! When you get this all processed out... you're going to have to do a LOT of explaining for me.
big_smile.png


I am familiar with horse colors as you are with Lab colors. I have a ton of homework to do. My first goal is body type even though my CD's are getting very vivid colors. My birds appear to be a little too leggy. They all have the cinder block shape with a few differences in overall size and I was able to pick up two more pullets. One CD & one SG. I'm hoping that they will be a little on the shorter side. So, I am assuming from reading all of the previous posts, my best bet would be to cull for shorter legged larger bodied chicks and work the color issue out after I am satisfied they are closer to the standard.

I will be breeding on a small scale as I can't facilitate a larger operation. My birds are young still, is it possible that they go through what would appear to be a leggy stage??? When breeding horses, foals go through a leggy stage so I hope it doesn't sound too silly.

I still have 4 cockerels to choose from at this point and can't make my mind up on how many to keep so that I may rotate them into my program for diversity. After I select for best body type, would I then make a selection on legs?

In what order do you look at first to cull from your stock? Feet, Body, height, combs, color??? I know there is more to keep track of down the line such as productivity, fertility, broody, etc. I did read the article that was recommended by Don Schrieder and I am still in the developing my plan stage. Being that my birds are still very young, I have some time. I don't have an incubator which I realize will slow down my production as well since I will be relying on my hens to hatch. I may need to just break down and make the investment with only 3 pullets to work with. I'm just not confident that I will be very successful at it and know my hatch rate might be better as long as my girls have their natural instincts.

Thanks in advance....
-Amy
you should see some improvement on the proportions by about 4-5 months old, as they get closer to laying. i was dismayed that my sandhill birds all became 'supermodels' almost overnight, but the majority filled back in pretty quick. there's a few that didn't that are in the cull pen waiting to go to the sale saturday.

as for the order to look for in culling, use the SOP's own written order. size and shape first, then wing carriage, feet & comb, and look at color last. I am only choosing a few based on color simply for the genetics aspects, but i'll be choosing offspring from those cross color breedings based on type and size primarily, as long as they meet what i'm looking for in color too.

as for relying on broodies, i don't. i've got 4 broodies right now, one sandhill nearly black colored girl from last years' hatch (who went awol but i found her hiding down near the tractor shed) and 3 cochins. but all of my broodies are over a year old and untested. but i have eggs hatching right now and i'm giving some of the 'less valuable' eggs/chicks to the 'broodie sisters' in the mille fleur pen, to see if they'll share a large brood. if they do ok then i'll give the rest of the chicks to them tonight. reliable broodies are a bonus, but i don't count on them because not all of them can be relied on. my first girl to ever go broody sat on her clutch of eggs religiously but when they started to hatch, she killed them all. so i do all my own incubating and hatching, and if a broody is willing then she gets to have babies.
 
you should see some improvement on the proportions by about 4-5 months old, as they get closer to laying. i was dismayed that my sandhill birds all became 'supermodels' almost overnight, but the majority filled back in pretty quick. there's a few that didn't that are in the cull pen waiting to go to the sale saturday.

as for the order to look for in culling, use the SOP's own written order. size and shape first, then wing carriage, feet & comb, and look at color last. I am only choosing a few based on color simply for the genetics aspects, but i'll be choosing offspring from those cross color breedings based on type and size primarily, as long as they meet what i'm looking for in color too.

as for relying on broodies, i don't. i've got 4 broodies right now, one sandhill nearly black colored girl from last years' hatch (who went awol but i found her hiding down near the tractor shed) and 3 cochins. but all of my broodies are over a year old and untested. but i have eggs hatching right now and i'm giving some of the 'less valuable' eggs/chicks to the 'broodie sisters' in the mille fleur pen, to see if they'll share a large brood. if they do ok then i'll give the rest of the chicks to them tonight. reliable broodies are a bonus, but i don't count on them because not all of them can be relied on. my first girl to ever go broody sat on her clutch of eggs religiously but when they started to hatch, she killed them all. so i do all my own incubating and hatching, and if a broody is willing then she gets to have babies.

Looks like I will be purchasing an incubator and building some brooders then. Hmmm? Any suggestions on incubators? (Smaller models)
 
New pictures.... Opinions welcome... good or bad! I tried to get body shots today which is difficult because they don't all particularly like each other. I have to keep one locked up when they are out or it's not a pretty picture in the back yard and awful noisy! They are 14-15 wks in these pictures. I tried to get pictures of their actual shape but when they weren't crowing, the were dust bathing. Ughhh!

Alfred (This is their new favorite spot to crow) So he's standing a little upright!




Alfred & Theseus (crowing competition)



Theseus (tail carriage too high???)



Spartacus



Athena - 14wk old pullet



Hope - he is the only one with straw colored vs. white on his neck. He is smaller than the other boys but he is as wide in back as he is in front. He is low man on the totem pole which is why he's with the other girls. (Non - dorkings)

 
nice pics. but i think other than color issues, their legs all look a bit long. but it could be their ages too... tail carriage looks about right IMO.

i like these 2 the best personally. but i would say wait a bit and see how they fill in otherwise.

 
nice pics. but i think other than color issues, their legs all look a bit long. but it could be their ages too... tail carriage looks about right IMO.

i like these 2 the best personally. but i would say wait a bit and see how they fill in otherwise.


Yes.... That's what I'm afraid of, long legs. Hopefully I'll start to see some filling out. Thank you!
 
Yes.... That's what I'm afraid of, long legs. Hopefully I'll start to see some filling out. Thank you!
when were they hatched? my sandhill chicks are starting to show improvement, they were hatched april 7th or so. my older sandhill line chicks (mid march) are starting to actually LOOK like dorkings now. LOL
 

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