B.Y.C. Dorking Club!

The blacks are in a serious state of repair but I think there is hope but wow lots of culls. The 5th toe placement is a problem and size is also a problem. We tried some experiments with crossing our biggest white (He has some black here and there) to our best black hens. I was told black would be dominate but as I replied the 2 lines should be in good shape and breed homozygous before crossing. Looks like I was right or there is more to it than that. I can't say black was the dominate result as we have birds of all colors from those matings. The blacks need so much work I figured it couldn't hurt to out-cross because it's going to take years to get the blacks consistent and homozygous.

We got at least one color I haven't heard of yet, maybe I haven't researched enough but it's grey. I showed it to my friend yesterday and he informed me that the color is considered blue in the chicken world. So Blue Dorking?

Anyway the plan is to take the best blacks from the out-cross and go from there. May have to back cross to the blacks again but I'm hoping not...... It's a fun project though because there are really no rules outside of shape and feet.

The initial plan was to go with the white off the bat but like I mentioned earlier we have way more space than we will be able to fill with the whites this year. Next year the blacks might find themselves on the back burner here. Depends on how many premo whites we end up with this year.

And thanks HeritageHabittatFarms, appreciate the kind words.
IMO, a better solution for the black would be a good sized red or silver grey. (silver grey preferably, since the red may cause leakage). red and sg don't have the ability to hide mutations like black and white do...
 
Just wanted to let everybody know we are having much better success with our hatches since we started using the GQF Professional 1500 for incubating. We have been using the Repti Pro for a hatcher but to be honest the thermostat on that thing isn't near sensative enough to be a serious incubator. Like somebody mentioned previously, opening the door is a must to help control temp and especially humidity.

I get 100% hatch rates with my Reptipro.. and it runs year round..so if that isn't serious incubating.. I don't know what is..
I have used mine for everything from parrots to emu with no issues



as for opening the door.. that is NOT to control temperature OR humidity..

that is to increase air exchange only
 
Looks like SH tried that silver gray thing and boy does it make for some silvered up hackles.....

Most of the blacks coming from this mating are just as black as the ones we got from SH. Of course we'll not know about the hackle situation until later on in the season ......

There are some ugly mixed up blacks coming from SH, especially the roosters. They do have nice short legs though lol.

Looks like i'm getting reds, tawny, blue, black and white from the white to black cross....... Hard to tell for sure for me because i've never messed with these colors and not sure what color they would finish out to be if they were to finish. Some of the whites have black spots too, not keeping anything but the blackest birds with perfect toes from this mating..... Figure if i were to out-cross now would be the time since it's going to take forever anyway. Told Joseph I wouldn't out-cross the whites so I hope this doesn't upset him. Way I see it, I'm out-crossing the blacks...... And culling to the max...
 
Looks like SH tried that silver gray thing and boy does it make for some silvered up hackles.....

Most of the blacks coming from this mating are just as black as the ones we got from SH. Of course we'll not know about the hackle situation until later on in the season ......

There are some ugly mixed up blacks coming from SH, especially the roosters. They do have nice short legs though lol.

Looks like i'm getting reds, tawny, blue, black and white from the white to black cross....... Hard to tell for sure for me because i've never messed with these colors and not sure what color they would finish out to be if they were to finish. Some of the whites have black spots too, not keeping anything but the blackest birds with perfect toes from this mating..... Figure if i were to out-cross now would be the time since it's going to take forever anyway. Told Joseph I wouldn't out-cross the whites so I hope this doesn't upset him. Way I see it, I'm out-crossing the blacks...... And culling to the max...
outcrossing doesn't hurt the parent birds, just takes time away from when they could be laying pure color eggs that could be incubating and hatching... but as long as you still have the original pure stock, you can still breed more of the same.
 
Yeah, I understand a mating only lasts a couple weeks in the egg production.... and breeding won't change the parents genes......

That's pretty basic knowledge. Been breeding plants since 1983......
 
Yeah the thing works but come on, it's temp swings 3 degrees either way. I don't know what your 6000 model is about but this 5000 is going to be used for storing hatching eggs during the week while I collect for the next hatch. She's perfect for that, have egg movers and can keep the temps in the mid 60's. Best thing this thing would be good for imo....

If I didn't know better I'd swear you have stock in the wine cooler pro.

For anybody looking for a serious incubator, I'd suggest getting one that has a thermostat with a lot less tolerance. I've also been checking how different areas of the reptipro have bigger temp swings. The corners are an issue with mine. Good for storing eggs. The other thing is that you get 100%. Nobody always gets 100%. Kind of makes me think......
 
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Yeah the thing works but come on, it's temp swings 3 degrees either way. I don't know what your 6000 model is about but this 5000 is going to be used for storing hatching eggs during the week while I collect for the next hatch. She's perfect for that, have egg movers and can keep the temps in the mid 60's. Best thing this thing would be good for imo....

If I didn't know better I'd swear you have stock in the wine cooler pro.

For anybody looking for a serious incubator, I'd suggest getting one that has a thermostat with a lot less tolerance. I've also been checking how different areas of the reptipro have bigger temp swings. The corners are an issue with mine. Good for storing eggs. The other thing is that you get 100%. Nobody always gets 100%. Kind of makes me think......

Mine stays right on temp

and no... I don't own stock in Reptipro or work for them.. it would be nice if I did and could get a sweet discount.. but I'm not that lucky!

I get 100% hatch rates on my fertile eggs.. But I have been hatching out eggs all my life and am well into my 50's.. plus I learned from the best ..my grandparents and their parents before them.
All you have to do is learn how the particular incubator works in YOUR home with YOUR climate. Monitor air cells and egg weights, keep a sterile incubator, practice hand washing with a good (preferably antibacterial) soap, and make sure the parent birds have a good diet. Make sure the eggs have what they need: plenty of air exchange, proper turning, proper temps and proper humidity. It's not rocket science
If you can meet the criteria there is NO reason why you shouldn't get 100% hatch rates on each and every fertile egg you place in your incubator. If you aren't getting 100% hatch rates.. then obviously you are doing something wrong. be it with parent stock or your incubation methods.
 
Yeah the thing works but come on, it's temp swings 3 degrees either way. I don't know what your 6000 model is about but this 5000 is going to be used for storing hatching eggs during the week while I collect for the next hatch. She's perfect for that, have egg movers and can keep the temps in the mid 60's. Best thing this thing would be good for imo....

If I didn't know better I'd swear you have stock in the wine cooler pro.

For anybody looking for a serious incubator, I'd suggest getting one that has a thermostat with a lot less tolerance. I've also been checking how different areas of the reptipro have bigger temp swings. The corners are an issue with mine. Good for storing eggs. The other thing is that you get 100%. Nobody always gets 100%. Kind of makes me think......


Well, I can state without any doubt or hesitation that Yinepu has indeed gotten 100% hatches on every batch since I've known her.

I can also state that incubating isn't all that difficult. My great uncle incubated in an open feed trough with heat lights. He had great success at it. I've never quite been able to figure out why people make incubation out to be so stifling in the "musts". I'm doing alright with a glorified hair dryer for my incubator. So, I dunno.

Some people have a knack at some things. Mine is growing things...even in the worst "nothing grows here" places/soils. Maybe Yinepu's knack is hatching. Maybe your knack is elsewhere - like getting outstanding strains of black Dorkings. But, I can say, she's not lying, Greenhorn. Even long distance, she's keeping her record, so far (walking me through panic attacks, etc) **knocks wood**. Don't want to jinx anything.
 
Yeah, I understand a mating only lasts a couple weeks in the egg production.... and breeding won't change the parents genes......

That's pretty basic knowledge. Been breeding plants since 1983......
you'd think that'd be pretty basic, but i used to raise chocolate labs... had a breeder tell me if she was bred by a mutt she'd be 'ruined for life'. LOL he said she'd never produce another purebred dog again. yeah right. tell that to the owners of a pup that went grand champ field trial dog.
 
All you have to do is learn how the particular incubator works in YOUR home with YOUR climate. Monitor air cells and egg weights, keep a sterile incubator, practice hand washing with a good (preferably antibacterial) soap, and make sure the parent birds have a good diet. Make sure the eggs have what they need: plenty of air exchange, proper turning, proper temps and proper humidity. It's not rocket science
If you can meet the criteria there is NO reason why you shouldn't get 100% hatch rates on each and every fertile egg you place in your incubator. If you aren't getting 100% hatch rates.. then obviously you are doing something wrong. be it with parent stock or your incubation methods.
that's what i've been saying all along... each incubator's going to act differently depending on where it is, the room, temp etc. so you have to learn what it likes/doesn't like, make adjustments where necessary and go from there. and yes, key to it all is healthy stock to be able to produce healthy eggs.

can't say i've ever had 100% hatch rate, but i've come darned close many times. even with shipped eggs. and i'm just using old hovabator picture window 'bators. 4 of em. 3 for incubating 1 for hatching.
 
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