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They shouldn't be molting and brooding at the same time. Does it look like a true molt, or is there just poor feather quality, or is it feather damage. With two males and only two hens, there's probably some fighting going on, both between the two hens and between the two roosters, which will damage the feathers. That can sometimes look like molting, except that the feathers are being broken off instead of falling out. Are there pinfeathers growing back in, or just stubs of old feathers sticking out of the skin (or broken off at the skin)? Is the feather loss equal everywhere, or is it concentrated over the back and shoulders in the hens (from roosters treading while breeding), over the top of the head and high up on the back of the neck in the hens (from roosters grabbing the head/neck while breeding), or on the throat/neck/high breast of either gender (fighting). I don't see my hens fight often, but when I do see them they rip the feathers out of each others throats with their beaks and out of their breasts with their feet. Even though I rarely see the fights, there are a few troublemakers that look ratty every breeding season -- they get hormonal and bitchy!! They are also the hens of the least quality, conformation-wise, and will be culled once they finish laying eggs this season (they are not in the breeding pool, egg layers only).
Having two competitive males can sometimes cause fertility problems, especially when there's not enough hens. The males sometimes knock each other off the hens before breeding is finished, or they're in such a hurry that there's not enough cloacal contact. I've also been told that even though we want a cinderblock, long-keeled, horizontal body shape in this breed, males that are too horizontal along the topline often have fertility issues, as they tend to have more difficulty maneuvering into the correct position for adequate contact. You might try using only one rooster instead of two to see what happens. Depending on the individual roosters, that could make a huge difference.
I definitely agree with deworming and treating for mites (whether you see any or not), with every new bird that comes to your property. After routine deworming, I like to get fecal tests done in 2 weeks and 2 months, just to be sure nothing was missed, and nothing is coming back. I like testing for contagious diseases on any bird that comes from a non-NPIP facility, as well as quarantine from my main flock for 3-4 weeks or more, regardless of NPIP origination. I'm a huge fan of name brand formulated layer pellets as a baseline diet, but then add in free range foraging, veggie scraps, anything healthy from the table or garden, free choice oyster shells, and fish scraps, which increases the overall protein level and provides balanced fatty acids from the fish oil, which does amazing things for their plumage. (If you have a mixed-age flock that has young pullets less than 18 weeks old, do not use layer pellets. Use an 18-20% protein pellet and have oyster shells available for the laying hens. The forced intake of extra calcium from the layer pellets in the young pullets can cause problems.) Also, do anything possible to reduce the stress within the flock, which is unique in each situation, but can include things such as not enough cover, not enough space, too many roosters, unpleasant individuals that bully excessively, scary dogs or other animals, no shelter from the weather, no high roosts (Dorkings love to roost in trees more than any other breed I've owned, including heritage turkeys), too many predator sightings, etc.
I personally hate trimming fluff, but do admit that it does help in some cases. The way I look at it is that Dorkings are not Cochins -- if they've got so much fluff that it interferes with breeding, maybe they're not breeding quality. But sometimes with rare breeds we can't be that picky. If you do trim fluff, trim below the vent on the male and above the vent on the female. Be careful not to trim so close that it exposes skin, which can cause picking and lead to serious injuries. And be really careful not to cut the skin -- sounds obvious, but I see people accidently do it all the time when grooming their animals.
If nothing works, the suggestion of rotating in known fertile roosters over the new hens and known fertile hens under the new roosters is an excellent way to determine fertility once and for all. Just remember that hens can retain sperm for 3-4 weeks, so don't start checking for fertility until the new birds have been with their proven fertile partners exclusively for at least a month, or the wrong mate might get the credit.
