Back At The Chicken Shack

[Lauravonsmurf]

Standard-bred Rhode Island reds, rose and single comb : their practical qualities, the standard requirements, how to judge them, how to mate and breed for best results​

Circa 1911

https://archive.org/stream/standardbredrhod00hale/standardbredrhod00hale_djvu.txt

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

From the Dictionarium Domesticum published 1736

I just find this old stuff cool…

blites =
any of a variety of plants in the family Chenopodiaceae, esp Amaranthus blitum
Also called: purple amaranth (per a dictionary)

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

First egg from one of the young Pullets…. I am thinking it maybe Lana’s but the two Naked Necks also lay brown eggs per breed standards…

Still haven’t found my 3 roaming girl’s nest… I know when I do there will be like 30 eggs in it. They like to hide their communal nest…

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Shows the brick shape and feathers that is suppose to be on RIR feathers

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Today I clipped back the flight feathers of the left wing on my birds. I have a few that are exceptionally gifted at flying. I don’t want them getting high up in trees or flying over the into a neighbors yard when we let them out in the garden.

Had the kids help

We checked them over too

Now it is wait and see if I clipped back enough

I took Glamor shots of the girls…

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Heritage Chicken Feed Guidelines The Livestock Conservancy https://livestockconservancy.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Heritage_Chicken_Feed_Guidelines.pdf
Feed requirements: Heritage breeds of chicken (especially heavy or dual purpose breeds) require a more nutritionally complete feed ration than their commercial counterparts, in order to fully achieve their potential size and productivity. Many of the common rations found in feed stores are formulated for commercial hybrid birds which are selected to grow well with less protein in their diets. Often producers can find appropriate levels of protein for Heritage chicks in game bird or turkey starter and grower diets.
To best manage the nutritional requirements of Heritage chickens the following feeding schedule is recommended:
Hatch to 8 weeks of age: approximately 26-28% protein content game bird starter ration.
8 weeks of age to 12 weeks of age: approximately 22-24% protein content game bird grower ration.
12 weeks to until point of lay (24 weeks): approximately 18-20% protein content layer/broiler grower ration.
Point of lay (24 weeks) to end of laying cycle: approximately 16-18% protein content layer ration. A little higher protein content keeps the bird healthier in times of heat/cold stress, and better maintains condition of the heavier bodied heritage laying hens. The layer ration has a higher calcium percentage than the grower ration at a max of 8% and a minimum of 5%.
Breeder ration: When collecting eggs for hatching from breeding stock attention to detail in nutrition is especially important and the addition of a nutrient/probiotic supplement can assist in increasing fertility and hatchability. Overall, feeding the breeder flock should fall into the general guidelines for the layer flock at approximately 16-18% protein content layer ration, with calcium at a max of 8% and a minimum of 5%.
NOTE:
1. Homemade or custom milled feed rations can be supplemented with alfalfa meal or fish meal
to achieve higher protein content.
2. Field peas, sunflower seed, oats, barley, and milo all make good scratch grains or alternative
feed grains to corn and soy.
3. Aragonite can be added to increase calcium content.
4. A high quality nutrient/probiotic supplement can be used to improve overall nutritional
profile (vitamins, minerals, probiotics). *Use according to product labeling & guidelines.
5. The use of apple cider vinegar (ACV) in the drinking water (1% of total volume or 1-6 Tbs.
ACV per gallon) is helpful in controlling heat stress, improving bird vigor, helping control internal parasites, and increasing rate of lay. *As reported by independent farmers using ACV in their flocks.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Our newest little guy… Thank You Tracy

He is pretty active so my iPad camera is not getting good pictures

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

I have some old patio furniture on the side of the house sitting in mud, and weeds… waiting for me to get well enough to take to the dump… it dawned on me at least the patio chest could be turned into a portable nesting box, and it turned out perfect. Cut a hole in one side with my hand garden clippers, dropped in some wood shavings and a fake egg. Put it in the old coop for now… it will work perfectly and can be moved around the yard easily too.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

I started another small batch of sprouts. I just put a little of the whole grain feed I use in a plastic feed tray I have and give it water daily till it has grown up a bit… I do need to get a bigger plastic tub so I can make larger quantities I will need. I probably should come up with a system. The adult feed I use is comprised of wheat, barley, peas, milo, oats and sunflower seeds. 18% Protein

The new little guy has been named Peepers.

I fed him a tiny bit of minced Cilantro, Red Pepper Flakes, a choice of dry Chick Starter and Mash.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Continued Research in Ye Olden Days vs Now in Chicken Keeping

One challenge in reading really old chicken keeping advice is figuring out the terminology… so the word of today is ”Flux”.

From the 1500-1800s Bloody Flux killed countless people and Bloody Flux is the old terminology for Bloody Dysentary, characterized by bloody and pungent diarrhea in humans amongst other symptoms. The cures durring that time period could be just as bad (lead pills for example) and the lack of understanding concerning how the pathogen was spread made it a very common way to die… so do chickens get the same pathogen was naturally my question?

Yes, turns out they can get Dysentery. In the grand timeline of studies, a relatively recent study I found indicates Chickens can get it. It does not seem to be common, on the other hand if no one has been looking for it (testing for it) they would not recognize it because bloody droppings is a symptom of Coccidiosis. Currently with improved hygiene in both the city and rural communities, improved hygiene in animal husbandry including the simple act of making sure both humans and animals are now drinking clean water vs water containing feces Dysentery is really not that common… but in ye olden days it could be a death sentence for humans and probably livestock… but the “Flux” from back then could have equally have been the dreaded Coccidiosis as well.

Bloody Dysentery in humans can be caused by both a bacteria and an amoeba, it was the bacteria that the study I found revolved around. The bacteria from genus Shigella, and is known as shigellosis.

Anyhow I did not find any suggested modern treatment for chickens infected with Shingella. Since fecal matter contamination of food and water was the major way people get it probably hygiene management is the best preventative… this also happens to be how Chickens catch Coccidiosis it is contaminated food, water and parasites… there is a vaccine for Coccidiosis, however most Back Yard Flocks are not vaccinated for Coccidiosis. Suggested preventive is worming, clean water, clean feed, caged birds do not catch Coccidiosis as they are not pecking in litter, so keep the coop clean as you can, it is very much connected with parasite load so keeping that down tends to prevent it. The university site I read on Coccidiosis also suggested not to use medicated feed the first 14 days of a chicks life to give their immune system a chance to develop. Medicate only if needed, otherwise it is all preventative and good husbandry advice.

Fresh clean water to drink and keeping your chickens away from fouled water, standing puddles, offering clean food was also advised in general in the material I was reading from the 1600-1700s… as a way to keep your prized chickens healthy.

Olden Day 1600-1700 cure is scalded pea bran. I have no idea if it works. They also believed Flux was caused by feeding your chickens too much over moist meats.