Best feed for my hens to lay hatching quality eggs

[Mosey2003]

What kind of incubator are you using?

HovaBator 1602n with the fan.

 

[Shamo Hybrid]

HovaBator 1602n with the fan.

Damn..... that incubator gives that good of a hatch rate? It's pretty cheap too. Is this the one that everyone recommends on a budget with a good hatch ratio? I'm still undecided with which incubator to go with, maybe I will just build me one.

 

[Mosey2003]

Damn..... that incubator gives that good of a hatch rate? It's pretty cheap too. Is this the one that everyone recommends on a budget with a good hatch ratio? I'm still undecided with which incubator to go with, maybe I will just build me one.

That's the one. Get the upright (yellow) turner with it. It takes a little effort to set up and burn it in well, but it's extremely consistent. I use two, calibrated, dial meat thermometers (one for dry temp, one with a bit of cotton t-shirt hem attached for wet) and when it's dialed in right, at 100 degrees and 55% humidity, it will stay put indefinitely.
If you do get one and want to set it up, feel free to PM me and I can walk you through how I do it.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Personally, I feed meatbird/broiler crumbles, as they're at least 21% protein AND part of that is animal-based, I feel strongly that that is important (to me). I feed that to everything unless I'm using medicated starter. I plan to get some Nutri-Drench for the water soon and see if that doesn't boost my hatch rate and chick health even more. I just had a 98% hatch on my eggs from birds eating the meatbird feed, so I'm really happy there, just going for optimum vitamin and mineral content with the Nutri-Drench addition.

It's true that chickens NEED the amino acids that derive from ANIMAL protein... and that not all proteins are created equal, however our formulated rations do have them added in.

Again "meat bird"... another confusing name used by possibly even the same company with a SLIGHTLY different guaranteed analysis, so they can have more "marketing"... I do LOVE to read those tags though and choose the one that has at least as much protein and not more than how much calcium I want fed to my birds. "Meat birds" in most cases are only intended to live 8-16 weeks and grow as fast as possible during that time... the one I used to buy had 25% protein. I wonder if they have any "extra" stuff, that alters processing outcome... since a reputable site states this in regards to waterfowl...

"We suggest you add 40 mg/kg of Zinc Methionine and increase Vitamin K to 50 mg/kg and Vitamin E to 5.0 mg/kg for the last three to four weeks before processing to help prevent bruising - especially if your birds will be transported in coops to the plant."

Heck, sometimes I cheat a serve 26-30% gamebird or turkey starter. Or mix it in to get where I want to be.

I got 100% hatches a few times... so many variables can take place. I think adding scrambled egg SUPPLEMENT might have been a factor during those. Supplement still meaning not excessive. I feed out once per week... any eggs (scrambled or boiled whole and smashed some) that were blanks at candling or even early quitters.

A soft egg shell is not always... or even usually a sign of calcium deficit. It is MOST often just a hiccup of the very complicated reproductive system... usually in girls coming into or exiting lay for the season. A hen absorbs the calcium into the keel bone where it is then redistributed to the shell gland. She WILL sacrifice her own bone calcium before she will quit laying.

A few KEYS to good hatches... Good flock NUTRITION and Genetics is the foundation. CALIBRATE your equipment EACH hatch. MOVE eggs to a new place in the bator daily or often to keep your hatch frame tight as variances in temp do happen EVEN in forced air.

The thing about adding vitamins and mineral... it can help. But once there is balance you aren't really doing anything except making expensive droppings (also true for excess protein). The nutri drench does have amino acids that most vitamin supplements don't. Some fat soluble vitamins can be overdosed... and too much or too little potassium could be deadly... balance is key... but we don't have to go overboard is all I'm saying.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Damn..... that incubator gives that good of a hatch rate? It's pretty cheap too. Is this the one that everyone recommends on a budget with a good hatch ratio? I'm still undecided with which incubator to go with, maybe I will just build me one.

I get GREAT hatches with my 1602N... with no fan and no turner... maybe my best... but with some manipulation... including outer blanket added so it could reach temp inside my chilly house barely goes above 58 degrees.

I now have several incubators... and use my 1602N as a hatcher.

it will stay put indefinitely.

That's my only bator I HAVE to adjust thermostat downward near hatch or SPIKES temp.

 

[Biddybot]

Hmm... I'm guessing your hens could use a little more protein. Have you got lots of spare eggs right now? If you do, try feeding them right back to your flock. Just hard-boil up a bunch, peel, mash 'em up enough that they're no longer recognizable as eggs, and offer them to your birds in something sturdy and heavy, like a big ceramic dog bowl...one hard-boiled egg's worth per bird, if you've got eggs enough. although even lesser amounts will help. I haven't met a hen yet that won't gobble this stuff down and IMO it's the healthiest high protein supplement you can possibly feed...it's what a chick is MADE of, after all!

A couple of weeks' worth of daily egg food should start providing noticeable improvement in the quality of the eggs you're getting if your birds were indeed in need of a bit more protein. Even if it turns out that it wasn't the problem, feeding egg food is still a good boost to their health and I'm sure they'll enjoy it.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Just hard-boil up a bunch, peel, mash 'em up enough that they're no longer recognizable as eggs,

I just smash them with the shell on.

IMO it's the healthiest high protein supplement you can possibly feed

I don't think I would feed an egg a day per bird... they are nutritious with 34% of their energy coming from high quality protein. Half of that protein is contained inside the yolk. BUT don't forget that 64% of the energy in an egg comes from fat.

 

[RustyHoosier]

Personally, I feed meatbird/broiler crumbles, as they're at least 21% protein AND part of that is animal-based, I feel strongly that that is important (to me). I feed that to everything unless I'm using medicated starter. I plan to get some Nutri-Drench for the water soon and see if that doesn't boost my hatch rate and chick health even more. I just had a 98% hatch on my eggs from birds eating the meatbird feed, so I'm really happy there, just going for optimum vitamin and mineral content with the Nutri-Drench addition.

 

[RustyHoosier]

I appreciate your reply. I'm trying to convince my husband to agree w/making the switch. For me I enjoy my chickens no matter how many eggs they lay. For him it's more of a "they cost more than they produce" issue. But I know I need to use all the advice to breed better hens.
I have to say that the nutri drench is an amazing product. It saved the life of my blue splash marans when she fell I'll.
Thanks again

 

[RustyHoosier]

I'm having fabulous luck with Nutrena Country Feeds Layer pellets.. I offer oyster shells and their crushed shells and they get an evening treat of oats with minced garlic and dried herbs...they also get some frozen fruit/ water ice pops in the summer and a some fruits/veggies. Plus they get some free range time almost every day.
That said, I don't have a rooster or raise chicks BUT I do make sure that treats are only about 10% of their diet. They are kept in until at least 2-3 pm so they've plenty of time to eat their wholesome pellets. I have only had one shell issue, one time, so I'd say they're getting what they need. I guess my advice is to be sure you're not over-treating.. it's SO HARD NOT TO!!!