Between the Bees, Coop Outfitting

[we3ernes]

Instead of putting the kreg screws on the face side can you put them on the outside?

JT

JT, the groove is equidistant from both faces, so I’d have the same problem.

 

[we3ernes]

Gross, quick, and not to scale 'sketch'.
Red-rabbet
Blue-pane
Green-trim to hold pane.
View attachment 1620135

I could do that, if I hadn’t have pre-cut grooves in the boards I was using. Of COURSE I worked ahead rather assembling a test piece first.

 

[we3ernes]

Here is the current plan:

This will be the outside. There is a frame of 1x3’s (leftover trim from house) Kreg screwed together like so:

Then a layer of 1x2’s on the muntins and 1”x2” (actual dimension) pieces on the rails and top stile. These pieces cross the existing joints to strengthen them. This gives me a ½” reveal all the way around that the Lexan can rest on (your rabbet @aart ).

The side closest to me will be the bottom (there won’t be a stile on the bottom). I can use lath screws (leftover from another project) as retaining clips on sides top and bottom.

These will be hinged on the top and open most of the time.

So water drains away and doesn’t sit on a board at the bottom. Wind/rain/hail are pushing Lexan into wood (1x3 frame) rather than into retaining clips. “Panes” are easily removed to replace as needed. Of course the entire thing needs to be caulked and painted.

Spot any problems?

@jthornton this is what a cross section of the Lexan looks like:

 

[aart]

Not sure this is great idea:

 

[we3ernes]

Not sure this is great idea:
View attachment 1620338

Hmmm, I figured it would be easier to remove than molding. What’s your concern?

 

[aart]

Hmmm, I figured it would be easier to remove than molding. What’s your concern?

Would indeed be much easier to remove....
....gotta balance out hopefully infrequent modification/maintenance/repair with long term everyday function.
Concerns are:
That the head of the screw may damage/fracture the edge of pane.
That it might not hold pane well enough in wind...tho I imagine that pane is pretty stiff.
That lack of trim as a sealer/deflector may allow water to get inside window.

Give it a try, can always go trim later...and it may work juuuusssst fine.
My objections may just be based on that it's such an unconventional assembly,
sometimes I can get stuck inside 'the box'.
I do like the the 'no bottom rail' to let water drain off.

 

[jthornton]

That's some interesting Lexan, never seen that before. Looks like a good plan with what you have now. If that top photo is the outside I'd rabbet the vertical and top pieces so the Lexan can slide into the cavity then the screws at the bottom can stop it from falling out while allowing any moisture to drain.

JT

 

[we3ernes]

Would indeed be much easier to remove....
....gotta balance out hopefully infrequent modification/maintenance/repair with long term everyday function.
Concerns are:
That the head of the screw may damage/fracture the edge of pane.
That it might not hold pane well enough in wind...tho I imagine that pane is pretty stiff.
That lack of trim as a sealer/deflector may allow water to get inside window.

Give it a try, can always go trim later...and it may work juuuusssst fine.
My objections may just be based on that it's such an unconventional assembly,
sometimes I can get stuck inside 'the box'.
I do like the the 'no bottom rail' to let water drain off.

Okay, I can work with this! The Lexan is surprisingly tough, so I don’t think fracturing will be an issue, but I will be cautious with that.

I was dreading the idea of starting over again. I have a deadline for the window. My dad comes on Saturday and will help me wire the coop (well, he will tell me what to do and I will do it). That will be MUCH easier to do with a window in place. The door lets in a surprising amount of light, but not enough to do detail work like that.

 

[we3ernes]

That's some interesting Lexan, never seen that before. Looks like a good plan with what you have now. If that top photo is the outside I'd rabbet the vertical and top pieces so the Lexan can slide into the cavity then the screws at the bottom can stop it from falling out while allowing any moisture to drain.

JT

If you’ve ever seen a kit greenhouse they are made out of this stuff. Here’s one from Harbor Freight:

I was really surprised that Home Depot carried it in my local store though.

 

[aart]

The Lexan is surprisingly tough, so I don’t think fracturing will be an issue, but I will be cautious with that.

It is, but not indestructible, so go easy tightening down that screw.
I used to know the vagaries between acrylic(Plexiglass) and poly-carbonate(Lexan).
One is more brittle(acrylic, I think) and one is more easily scratched...we went with Lexan for equipment barriers.