While I don't have a perfect system, and I keep learning, here are how I do things to help.
Mulch under tomatoes using pine shavings from a carpentry shop. ( Only pine ) Keeps soil moist and prevents splashing soil up onto the plants.
Remove all foliage below the first flower, and sometimes if that is very low, I have removed it. My thinking is better to have a healthy plant that will produce than risk it all over one cluster. I like a penny scissor or pruners.
I have been looking for control methods. Apparently spraying with baking soda can prevent or even slow down a blight infection. I have not tested this yet. Just found this last week. It may hold some promise as the University of Wisconsin is testing potassium bicarbonate as a fungal control on apple trees. I don't have the amt of baking soda to water at hand. but it is basically to spray every 2 weeks, somehow changing the pH of the leave surface and thereby making an inhospitable haven for mold spores.
Also, it has occurred to me to look for blight resistant varieties. Late blight and Early blight are not the same. More and more hybrids that are late blight resistant are coming onto the market, and are VERY expensive seed. Clearly worth it for the commercial growers.
Lurking many sources of descriptions for the OP/heirlooms often a note about blight is listed. Planning to start a list as I find them.
Also I ask at the best tomato info place I know Tomatoville, where MANY knowledgeable people hang out that know everything tomato. A polite and caring bunch there.
Helping the plant fight off disease via very good health is a plus. I'm still learning my soils and how to keep tomatoes de-stressed. Adequate moisture at all times; adequate Ca and other micronutrients via compost, eggshells etc. ( I throw my kitchen waste including bones into the compost). Soils often lack magnesium and potassium-- learning how to supplement those. Or to not supplement. The right spacing.
Basically Im learning how to build a very healthy soil for the plants, to they can be healthy and fight off disease.
From a university study--Keep leaves thinned to allow air flow thru which keeps the plants drying faster after a rain or dew. Open up plant to let sunlight onto every leaves. Seems that if the small plants are staked upright, the remaining leaves will protect the fruit better than letting the plant lay over. The FLorida weave is easy, and a bit faster than staking individual plants.
I think about how the air moves thru my gardens. This property is sloped, down to a big river 1/2 mile away. The air warms in the morning and moves up hill, then cools in evening and moves down hill. That is a north south movement. THis is separate from the prevailing winds, which is from the west.
Hope this all gives some ideas and you have better results this year.
