Blue Laced Red Wyandotte THREAD!

quote name="7acres" url="/t/466415/blue-laced-red-wyandotte-thread/3180#post_11770184"]I have been reading about protein levels in feed.  A lot of opinion about what to feed.  I have read that roosters need 9 - 12%, layers 15 - 17% and chicks 19 - 22%.  I would like to know what  you feed.  At the present time none of mine are free ranged, so address if you would for them.  While I do give them some additional things from the home and garden, I would like to know what you would feed them if they were strictly on a processed feed diet.

Do you agree with the percentages?

When would you change the percentages for the chicks?

What would you feed the rooster after the change?

What would you feed the hens after the change?


There is so much information out here and so many opinions.  I know that many on this thread are very successful with their chickens and many use different methods, but many do not have the alternative feeding sources and need to rely strictly on the feed store.  Some of you are so filled with chicken knowledge that sometimes my head wants to explode taking it all in.  But don't stop.
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I feed all my non layers medicated chick starter....best I can find. unmediated is $3-4 more per bag. then they are on 22% layer feed. they seem to do great with the higher protein. none of my birds free range....except guineas.


Tucker milling is the feed I use it is PORK based not soy or meat byproducts.
 
I was going to give my foley girl (blrw) some chicks since she's been broody for so long... glad I didn't, a raccoon got hold of her last night before the dog could get there. so now she's in the hospital cage with bite marks around her head and neck... not sure how badly damaged, but she's still alive. her balance is messed up and she just sleeps a lot right now. i'll try getting her to eat and drink some a bit later again. the only marks on her are around hear head and neck. the rest is un touched. but she can move her wings and feet, so i'm hopeful it's just temporary damage.
I am sorry to hear that..the best thing to do to keep coons away i to soak tennis balls in ammonia for 24 hours and put them outside the coop. They hate it with a passion.
I have been reading about protein levels in feed. A lot of opinion about what to feed. I have read that roosters need 9 - 12%, layers 15 - 17% and chicks 19 - 22%. I would like to know what you feed. At the present time none of mine are free ranged, so address if you would for them. While I do give them some additional things from the home and garden, I would like to know what you would feed them if they were strictly on a processed feed diet.

Do you agree with the percentages?

When would you change the percentages for the chicks?

What would you feed the rooster after the change?

What would you feed the hens after the change?


There is so much information out here and so many opinions. I know that many on this thread are very successful with their chickens and many use different methods, but many do not have the alternative feeding sources and need to rely strictly on the feed store. Some of you are so filled with chicken knowledge .

Would you agree that 4 square coop feet and 10 square run feet is sufficient?

*All Flock game bird* for all birds over 12 weeks old. I would offer calcium and grit.
i would use medicated chick feed till the chicks were 8-12 weeks, than put them on the game bird

I do not use medicated chick feed, but I free range and they do not need it. My chick are on the ground at 3 days old. If there is snow on the ground I dig a dirt plug for them and put it in the brooder. Even with snow on the ground I take the chicks out for a while every day.

I do not think it is sufficient for large fowl. Many people put birds in cages and the birds do fine. Since I have never caged birds, I can only go by all the problems that chickens have when caged in little space. They get bored, fat, depressed, and have more health issues. A healthy happy chicken needs fresh air, sunshine, good food, and exercise.
 
Quote: thanks, i'll keep that in mind... maybe get hubby to 'water' the corners and doorways too. I know the areas the dog marks, they tend to stay away.

*All Flock game bird* for all birds over 12 weeks old. I would offer calcium and grit.
i would use medicated chick feed till the chicks were 8-12 weeks, than put them on the game bird

I do not use medicated chick feed, but I free range and they do not need it. My chick are on the ground at 3 days old. If there is snow on the ground I dig a dirt plug for them and put it in the brooder. Even with snow on the ground I take the chicks out for a while every day.

I do not think it is sufficient for large fowl. Many people put birds in cages and the birds do fine. Since I have never caged birds, I can only go by all the problems that chickens have when caged in little space. They get bored, fat, depressed, and have more health issues. A healthy happy chicken needs fresh air, sunshine, good food, and exercise.
I agree whole-heartedly with that last paragraph! for a bird to be heathy and to produce well, they MUST have sufficient exercise.

just ask my 22 year old cockatiel hen. LOL she's in a 5' x 6' x 3' flight cage, gets a varied diet with very little seed and more greens/veggies, and is still quite active for a bird who's 10 years past the 'average' for her species.

fat birds don't breed well and have more problems laying.

also, (re Donna's post) the amprollium that's used in the medicated feed is a thiamine blocker, to keep coccidia from breeding, but is in such low dosages that it does little for the coccidia, but can cause thiamine (B12) deficiencies when used long-term. for some breeds. it can actually be fatal to the chicks, as we're finding out with the Swedish Flower Hens... people who use the medicated feeds are experiencing much higher losses, as these chicks seem to need more B12 in their diet than most. many breeders are actually supplementing the diets of chicks and breeding birds with raw liver and other meat sources high in B12 (aka thiamine).
 
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I gave my first chicks the medicated feed because they were incubated eggs. I later read that it was not thought to be necessary if they were exposed to the soil. The rest have been on the ground. I marvel at some of you peoples knowledge. I have started keeping a notebook to help me remember some of this.
 
Can anyone comment (just from curiosity sake) on my BLR roo and hen? Both 2 yrs old. Pet stock birds and just trying to educate myself. Is he considered too brassy?





Sorry!! Only one I can find of her so far!!



Also, are my chicks BLR, or EEs?

Chick #1





Chick #2





In the brooder bin (chick #1 on the far right, lower; Chick #2 far left, upper):



Thank you for your input!
All those chicks are EE's note the fluffy cheeks. CUTE!! EEs are soooo cute!
 
i just bought four BLRW chicks and they are now 3 weeks old. i know they can't be sexed yet, but by what age will i be able to tell what they are?
 
i just bought four BLRW chicks and they are now 3 weeks old. i know they can't be sexed yet, but by what age will i be able to tell what they are?
I'm *not* and expert. But. I ordered some chicks (6 pullets and 2 cockerels) and the cockerels are already showing wattles at 3-4 weeks old while the pullets are not. BLRW can be tricky to sex though....some like to develop early, others late, and keep you guessing until the 10 week mark (or later!)
 
Quote: yup. apparently my line seems to develop early then stop. so what I thought were cockerels seem to be 'turning into' pullets...

got an update from ridinshotgun, who has my favorite of the 3 known chicks from the trio and said he thinks it's a pullet after all... haven't heard from jmarie on the status of the one she's got...

but at least I have 1 chick from my foley girl for sure (black laced). pretty sure the one ridinshotgun has is from my splash laced (Canadian) girl. the other could be one or the other... can't really tell since they're both blue laced. roo is blue hens were black and splash laced... so the black laced girl is obviously the foley chick.

as for my foley girl, she's still alive, 36 hours after the coon attack, but hasn't eaten or drunk anything, haven't seen any poops either. I tried dipping her beak and get no response at all. if I run my hands down her back she does try to stand up, but has no balance and falls back over. if I can't get her to eat or drink by tonight I may have to just put her down. or else she'll just become dehydrated and die of kidney failure anyways.
 
I'm sorry for your losses....coon attacks, blind horses and all.
sad.png
bummer
 

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