Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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OSUman,
like the green quart size, or a different size?
Thank you,
Ginny

I think so..

I've seen a couple of different pics here on BYC of separation cages in incubators. One had small cages made of hardware cloth and the other used the large suet bird feeder that can be found a most places that carry bird feeding supplies. The marked eggs are placed in the cages at lockdown (day 18 for large fowl). The size of your incubator would determine what would work for you.

I hope someone will post pics here.
 
Quote:
OK, what illness(es) would you feed the medicated chick started to ,how much and how long? Any particular brand of feed?

Don't know if anyone else answered you, but the medication in chicks starter feed is amprolium, usually although I have seen some other stuff a few years ago.
Anyway, amprollium is an anti-cocal drug only, and is not to cure any diseases.
Coccidiosis is an infection in the intestines, and there are about 25 different kinds.
Once a bird has built up an immunal defense against a type of cocci, it is OK..but they can be subjected to new varieties and get reinfected throughout their lifetimes.
The Cocci live in their intestines and are shed into the soil.
There are alot of articles written on the subject to give you a better understanding of the bugs.

OK edited to say: I use Purina start n grow, medicated mixed with a fresh milled starter feed I get at a ranch out this way.
Baby chicks grow on this feed at at a month of age or so, you can begin to mix regular unmedicated grower feed with the start n grow, and slowly wean the chicks off the starter.
If they show signs of having any cocci, a pink tinge or blood in the poop, get them back on the chick starter asap...I put some in a bowl and the birds gobble it down like it is something special.
This medication in chick starter is only to treat coccidiosis, nothing else.
 
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All of these are great old time Standard Breed Birds. Each and every one of them need someone to help keep them going in time.

http://www.freewebs.com/poultrylanefarm/apps/photos/photo?photoid=105881307

Want to see some nice silikies and Buff Orpingtons go to the above site. Excellent looking birds. Thank you for having a interest in our hobby.

In the comment about waiting long lenths of time between changing a male It has been taught to me to wait about ten days. The eggs are still put in the incubator while the first male is rested and the second male is introduced to the females. It was told to me that once the clutch of eggs have been fertilized from male one that male two sill not have any impact on the first male. I think we need to get down to basics and not make this chicken hobby so complicated. Keep it simple as if you make it to complicated it becomes work and you will loose interest, get frustrated and you will fail.

I got a message from a new fellow from Illinois who wants to get started with Rhode Island Reds and Barred Plymouth Rock large fowl. Anyone know a breeder in this State that can help him get a start.??

The cold pills worked stayed in be for ten hours. Got to go and water the ducks check on the chickens and get ready to go to work again. Got one more night then off two days to rest up.

Thank goodness I dont have chicks and eggs to take care of right now.

If I could talk to a old time breeder from the Past I would like to talk to E B Thompson the barred rock breeder who had the Riglett Strain. Harold Thompkins of Mass, Rhode Island Red King who died in 1954. Also, Arthur Schiling the famous Judge, Artist and White Leghorn breeder. I wish I could talk to old time waterfowl breeders on how to breed the Gray Call Color Pattern or the mallard color pattern. Cant find anything on how the use to do it.


bob

Thankyou Bob on your comments on my birds. I've been working over three years on breeding my silkies up to where I am doing very well with them. At the PA Farm Show this weekend my black silkie pullet won Reserve Featherleg (Best Featherleg went to a Bantam Black Cochin Cock/Cockerel). My buff orp girl got RB (lost to the black orpington hen... Champion English) Also won RB with both my blue rosecomb pullet and standard salmon faverolle pullet. Lost of BVs and RVs in the open show. Overall I was very proud of my birds.
smile.png
 
Quote:
OK, what illness(es) would you feed the medicated chick started to ,how much and how long? Any particular brand of feed?

Many feed medicated baby chick feed for the first few weeks as a preventative for Coccidiosis.
 
50801_peeps_008.jpg


my hatch cages.
Each age of chicks in a different pen.
Partitions can be moved, and a door on the far pen opens out to a yard for the oldest chicks to go out.
Individual chicks can have leg bands to ID them if need be.
This is just my way...would love to see others...
 
Quote:
OK, what illness(es) would you feed the medicated chick started to ,how much and how long? Any particular brand of feed?

Don't know if anyone else answered you, but the medication in chicks starter feed is amprolium, usually although I have seen some other stuff a few years ago.
Anyway, amprollium is an anti-cocal drug only, and is not to cure any diseases.
Coccidiosis is an infection in the intestines, and there are about 25 different kinds.
Once a bird has built up an immunal defense against a type of cocci, it is OK..but they can be subjected to new varieties and get reinfected throughout their lifetimes.
The Cocci live in their intestines and are shed into the soil.
There are alot of articles written on the subject to give you a better understanding of the bugs.

OK edited to say: I use Purina start n grow, medicated mixed with a fresh milled starter feed I get at a ranch out this way.
Baby chicks grow on this feed at at a month of age or so, you can begin to mix regular unmedicated grower feed with the start n grow, and slowly wean the chicks off the starter.
If they show signs of having any cocci, a pink tinge or blood in the poop, get them back on the chick starter asap...I put some in a bowl and the birds gobble it down like it is something special.
This medication in chick starter is only to treat coccidiosis, nothing else.

I understand about coccidiosis and cocal contamination in feces and soil. I have never had chicks and have never used medicated feed and understood less about feeding it to mature birds. It makes sense now. Thank you for the explanation.
Ginny
 
Quote:
OK, what illness(es) would you feed the medicated chick started to ,how much and how long? Any particular brand of feed?

Many feed medicated baby chick feed for the first few weeks as a preventative for Coccidiosis.

JimFS,
You mentioned in a previous post you were raised on an organic farm(I think it was you anyway). Do you feed medicated chick feed and if so how does it apply to the organic "label"?
Ginny
 
Here is a list of breeds I think of when I here the term Heritage Breed Large Fowl. These are all meat, egg or dual purpose breeds.

Ancona
Andalusian
Australorp
Brahma
Buckeye
Campine
Catalana
Crevecoeur
Chantecler
Cornish
Cubalaya
Delaware
Dominique
Dorking
Faverolles
Hamburg
Holland
Houdan
Java
Jersey Giant
La Fleche
Lakenvelder
Lamona
Langshan
Leghorn
Minorca
Naked Neck
New Hampshire
Orpington
Plymouth Rock
Redcap
Rhode Island
Sicilian Buttercup
Spanish
Sussex
Wyandotte

I believe an APA breed not listed above would be more of an exhibition breed. I believe Non APA breeds that are rare are just that. Rare non APA breeds. Both of these are worthy of preservation just not what I think of as heritage.

The above list has 38 APA breeds with a total of 99 color varieties.
If we got three new people involved in breeding each variety that would be 297 new breeders.
How many new folks do each of you know that are thinking about raising large fowl?
Can we find 297 people how about 594 that would be 6 new breeders per variety.

I am interested in hearing everyone's opinion on this subject.
Should their bantam counterparts be included?
What breeds should be included or excluded in the list in your opinion?

Good luck with the birds
Charlie
 
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