Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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I prefer sulfur.

Sulfur is several times more effective than DE, and much safer to breath.
I avoid using DE as it's an extreme lung/eye irritant and loses it's "slicing and dicing" properties once wet anyway.


Yes, hay attracts mites (Straw Itch Mite-Pyemotes tritici) and others, but insects won't be able to live in sulfur dusted hay on the ground.
I use sulfur in my coops, dust baths etc.


Sulfur is listed as an "acaricide"(organic pesticide) and "fungicide" yet an essential nutrient to all life.

I use EPA Approved for Feedstock Grade

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***Research on feeding sulphur to laying hens as a way to control Northern fowl mites was presented at the International Poultry Scientific Forum, held in Atlanta, US in January 2012.


The Northern fowl mite, Ornithonyssus sylviarum, is the most important ectoparasite of commercial poultry in North America. Feeding sulphur to layers was successfully tested as a way to control fowl mites yet still not affect the production parameters of layers.

The research was conducted by Dr Wallace Berry, S. Oates and J. Hess from Auburn University in the US. ***
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How this can effect your soil...


Sulfur works great in the desert as our soil ph is too high...nothing can grow. In addition to repelling insects, it also repels snakes and good for the garden...

If you live in where rainfall is naturally low, or where limestone is abundant in your soil, you'll likely need to take steps to lower your soil's pH. Usually, the best product to use is 100 percent finely ground sulfur, a mined mineral. Sometimes called "flowers of sulfur," this is the same material that gardeners use as a fungicide.

PH stands for the "negative logarithm of hydrogen ion concentration." It's simply a measure of the acidity ("sourness") or alkalinity ("sweetness") of soil. The scale ranges from 1 to 14, but few soils are more acidic that 5 or more alkaline than 9. A pH of 7 is perfectly neutral, but most plants grow best when the pH is a slightly acidic between 6.5.

Soils in areas with low rainfall tend to be alkaline. Where rainfall is high, soils are more often acidic. This happens because rainfall gradually washes calcium from soil. In practical terms, if you live east of the Mississippi River, you'll need to add calcium to your soil to raise the pH; in the arid West the reverse is true. There, you'll need to add amendments such as sulfur in order to gradually increase the hydrogen ion concentration.

You can use PH test strips or...

- Add a few drops of vinegar to a tablespoon of dry garden soil. If it fizzes, your soil's pH is greater than 7.5.
- Add a pinch of baking soda to a tablespoon of moist soil. If it fizzes, your soil's pH is less than 5.0.
 
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Shipping Live Chicks



My buddy Jimmyjay54 and I have been chatting about this shipping eggs fiasco that just happens so darn often. Won't bore you with the details, but lost, I mean LOST boxes for days, scrambled egg insides even though the very best methods are used, hot trucks, freezing trucks, rough handling, dumped on conveyor belts, sent in jet cargo bays, and who knows what else.

Now, let's get down to brass tacks. Those with experience. Here is the scenario. Gonna send someone 9 chicks, 5 weeks old. Best price on a "good enough" shipping box? Bought in a package of less than 8. Who's gonna buy 30 shipping boxes, certainly not me.

Cost to ship? Current prices, as I understand there's been a rate spike. So what does a breeder have in the box and postage to send out 8 or 9 chicks?

Real experience please. Shoot, any of us can speculate.
big_smile.png
Just the facts, as Joe Friday used to say.
 
Makes sense that the best thing to use depends on where you live and what type set up you keep your chickens in. My soil is going to be highly acidic from all the chickens pooping in there so I use the lime to counter that.
 
I have not found DE to kill much of anything, it certainly has done nothing at all against the mites I have here. Not even when I dusted every bird, the coop and literally covered the ground a quarter inch deep. And everything I have read says that once it is wet it does not work anyway. I have come to the conclusion that it's probable I have been bringing the mites in on the straw. So instead of straw I am switching to wood shavings. A little more costly, but if it fixes the mite problem then actually cheaper in the long run in time and money.
Agree...not a fan of DE...

poultry/bird type mites can live up to 6 months without any hosts...so I would say it's possible that straw/hay etc could be a source for spreading mites...
lice need to stay on the host to survive...kill those on the bird and the battle is won...not so with mites )-:

wild birds, flies/maggots and and earth worms are the source of alot of parasites both internal and external...

I love rice hulls and pine shavings for the coop/nest boxes...& sand on the ground of the runs here in AZ...works great in the summer with misters too. no mud and dries quickly.

Sweet PDZ granules at feed store (not pellets) work great for drying runs and also deodorize as a bonus. It's made of zeolite...won't harm birds if ingested, but mine never have been interested anyway.
 
Shipping Live Chicks



My buddy Jimmyjay54 and I have been chatting about this shipping eggs fiasco that just happens so darn often. Won't bore you with the details, but lost, I mean LOST boxes for days, scrambled egg insides even though the very best methods are used, hot trucks, freezing trucks, rough handling, dumped on conveyor belts, sent in jet cargo bays, and who knows what else.

Now, let's get down to brass tacks. Those with experience. Here is the scenario. Gonna send someone 9 chicks, 5 weeks old. Best price on a "good enough" shipping box? Bought in a package of less than 8. Who's gonna buy 30 shipping boxes, certainly not me.

Cost to ship? Current prices, as I understand there's been a rate spike. So what does a breeder have in the box and postage to send out 8 or 9 chicks?

Real experience please. Shoot, any of us can speculate.
big_smile.png
Just the facts, as Joe Friday used to say.

I hear you!

I ordered a dozen rather expensive eggs from a guy in North Carolina (I'm in Virginia) and never rec'd them. He said he shipped (but didn't have tracking number) and my post office said nothing arrived and nothing could be tracked without that tracking number! Not happy to be out the money.

I'd like to hear the answer on the shipping boxes too. I'd also like to find some of those little boxes that places like Tractor Supply use to send their chicks home in. That would be great for local sales. Tired of having to keep old shipping boxes handy, we're kind of limited on closet space.

McMurray has 25 boxes for $21.95 and $4.95 shipping. That's not too bad if you plan to ship lots of chicks. If it wouldn't involve extra shipping, I'd offer to split a shipment with you. Anyone nearby that would be willing to do that with you?

Randall Burkey doesn't have any

Those are the only two places I know of.
 
I have not found DE to kill much of anything, it certainly has done nothing at all against the mites I have here. Not even when I dusted every bird, the coop and literally covered the ground a quarter inch deep. And everything I have read says that once it is wet it does not work anyway. I have come to the conclusion that it's probable I have been bringing the mites in on the straw. So instead of straw I am switching to wood shavings. A little more costly, but if it fixes the mite problem then actually cheaper in the long run in time and money.
Have you sprayed your roosts with liquid Permethrin ? It gets into all the nooks and crannies that the powder doesn't. DE is vastly over rated. It does NOT grind up worms in the digestive tract of chickens. It may supply a few minerals, depending on the source.I don't think your mites are coming in on straw. More likely on wild birds.
 
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