Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

[OSUman]

Quote:

Here are two photos to compare, one of Bob's cockerels from last year, one of my cockerels from this year. I think his bird is older than mine are in these, but am not sure. I do think the tails on mine are a bit longer than his, but that may just be me...


GILBERT COCKEREL 2012 (I think)


HAGGARTY COCKERELS 9/2013

Laura, one other thing that I think Bob culls for is width of back, and width of bones. I have some buckeyes at my place that came from him, and they are very stocky, and have really thick legs and are wide across their backs.

 

[OSUman]

Ok, so basically,
More cushion, shorter back, and broodiness resulting in less eggs go together.
Less cushion, longer back, less broodiness resulting in more eggs go together.

My questions are,
If you see one indicator of this group of characteristics in your birds, should you presume the other 2 are also there?
How do you break the influence of the three and with which one is the best place to start?
Is an outcross necessary and, if so, which sex and which compensator of the three characteristics should you look to obtain in the outcross bird you are bringing in?
I am presuming here it is easier to correct these three challenges by erasing one at a time?
Thanks

,
Karen

I think it would be better to just stick with, birds with longer backs produce more eggs, birds with shorter backs produce less.

 

[3riverschick]

I think it would be better to just stick with, birds with longer backs produce more eggs, birds with shorter backs produce less.

Thank you!
Karen

 

[NanaKat]

Quote:
I like for a hen to set firmly on her nest for at least a week before I give her eggs from an incubator. I have given eggs anywhere from 10 days when I candle to a few days before hatch. I have some determined hens who will sit on an empty nest and guard it with their lives. Some will sit on a golfball or a smooth round stone or even ceramic eggs. These girls make determined nesters.
I have two Hova-Bators . I like the model 2362N with circulated air better than the Model 1602N with thermal air. I use egg turners in each as well as one for eggs being collected before placing in the incubators. In a pinch I can use an old Little Giant to start eggs I'm going to let a hen hatch. But I prefer to use the Little Giant for keeping chicks warm until I move them to the big brooder. I found the Hova-Bators on Amazon.com for a very reasonable price.
I will caution you to save your most valuable or precious eggs for a broody that has raised a clutch of eggs/chicks. A first time hatcher may smother a chick in her exuberance to mother her hatchlings.
I've been fortunate to double mother some chicks by pairing a seasoned hen with a first timer. If the seasoned broody is willing to let a first timer share a large nest with her, they will raise the chicks together. The two Cochins mentioned earlier are raising 15 chicks together and two of my Wyandotte hens raised one OEGB Banty baby between them...the most spoiled of chicks One hatched it and the other wanted it so they compromised and paired up.
I'm watching 6 broody hens right now to make sure they break broody. Only one now has 10 eggs at day10. I will candle those and may split them between a few of the girls.

The two Cochins with their chicks the first week and a picture of the broodies in cages and a 10 holer....17 broody girls at one time.....sheesh! The hen in the cage on the right would literally scream and puff up when I entered the hen house but I could slip my hand under her without getting pecked..

 

[catdaddyfro]

I think it would be better to just stick with, birds with longer backs produce more eggs, birds with shorter backs produce less.

Yeah its a balance thing you have to constantly be on top of like Fred said with whatever genes are lurking just beneath the skin on these composite types. A too long of a back you will get the leghorn/gamey type effects(traits) the short back the cochin effects(traits) so there is always a constant battle to keep everything on an even kiln (hard to do too, I might add)

Jeff

 

[Texasmja]

Only because my DW wanted something other than "black and white chickens" I keep a small flock of blue laced red wyandottes (and they are quite pretty)

Anyway, they are the broodiest things I've ever had. Great mothers, only cover 8-10 eggs easily, and when the chicks are around 4-5 weeks old....they are DONE. I have one blue and one splash. The splash has brooded twice this year and the blue just started setting again last week.....for the third time. Oh well, it is fun to watch a mama teach the chicks and it sure makes things easier on me

However, they never seem to want to brood when I want to hatch

My BLRW are super broody and great mothers. They have all hatched clutches twice this year and they sit and raise "their" chicks together as a family unit.

 

[Pathfinders]

As a Rock breeder, the cushion shows me the composite nature of the bird and particularly the Cochin genes. It's always there, right below the surface and if left unchecked, it pops back out. Laura, I'm not 100% up to snuff as to the composite of the Buckeye that Miss Nettie put together, but I'm guessing there is something that wants to come out and overly express. I'm sure there is something you all have to keep a keen out for.

Yep. Cochins were one of the first birds Nettie used when she was creating Buckeyes, so no surprise to see cushions unless we're vigilant against them. Thank goodness we don't see feathered feet very often (I know I never have anyway.)

 

[Pathfinders]

Laura, one other thing that I think Bob culls for is width of back, and width of bones. I have some buckeyes at my place that came from him, and they are very stocky, and have really thick legs and are wide across their backs.

Well, I can attest to the fact that the ones he sent me in June are looking very nice indeed, and with the lack of the dreaded cushion on most of the pullets, are a very welcome addition to my breeding pens. Bob has done a lot of hard work with this breed, and we're very grateful for it!

 

[thedragonlady]

Ok, so basically,
More cushion, shorter back, and broodiness resulting in less eggs go together.
Less cushion, longer back, less broodiness resulting in more eggs go together.

My questions are,
If you see one indicator of this group of characteristics in your birds, should you presume the other 2 are also there?
How do you break the influence of the three and with which one is the best place to start?
Is an outcross necessary and, if so, which sex and which compensator of the three characteristics should you look to obtain in the outcross bird you are bringing in?
I am presuming here it is easier to correct these three challenges by erasing one at a time?
Thanks

,
Karen

I started with very heavy laying US Orps. I crossed with English, who are known to be not great layers. The pullet I got proved that. She lays 10-15 eggs, and then goes broody. She has a very short back, and too much cushion.Crossed with the US SOP birds, I got some that were fitting the SOP, and some that were very short backed.The SOP type Orps lay up a storm. The very short backed, English type, do not. I breed Birds. I breed the Cochiny ones to the longer bodied ones, and the laying is improved. This works . I don't think it is a sex linked thing. It is a body type,reflecting heredity, phenotype, constitution, characteristic.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

I think it would be better to just stick with, birds with longer backs produce more eggs, birds with shorter backs produce less.

Yes.