Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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I always like looking at the Leghorns. Where did the blacks come from?

I got the original Blacks from Superior Farms, but I don't know whose line they were. I suppose that they were Superior Farms line then.
 
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I will be attending the National IF my carpenter brother has completed my chicken coop. I will be in touch with you closer to the date. Otherwise, we can work out shipping details.

Thanks!
Sally
Let me know when you want to confirm details.
Best,
Karen
 
I have to admit that I was one of the idiots that did not make mine tall enough. (snipped for brevity) So the reason that I am commenting is so that anyone starting out thinks about this. Even if you are young, think about when you are not. Build the enclosures a little taller, and make the doors a little wider.
Hi,
Amen to that! I was cured of chicken tractors years ago, the first time I had to crawl on my hands and knees thru the poop to get a Marans . We build our runs in panels. Screw them together in multiples of 5 or 6 ft. long and 6 ft. high. Makes the math so much easier. Plus, if a run needs extended, just cut out the wire on the end of the run ; add 2 side panels, a new end panel, and a roof panel, Viola! 30 more sq. ft, in a couple of hours. This modular construction has a couple of advantages. 1st, it sits on the ground, not in it so, in our township, we don't need a building permit as they are classified a Temporary" construction. I built my 24'x36' x 6' ft. high dog yard this way with welded wire and staples 18 yrs. ago and they still hold up just fine. Even when a 50 ft. pine tree fell kitty corner across the dog yard last year... Just stood the fallen panels back up and added reinforcing 2x4's across the top edges of the 2 undestroyed comer panels. Put in a new gate to replace the smashed one and we were good. Interestingly, the tree took out the gate but the panels between which the gate was centered were just fine
2nd, the footprint is very malleable. You can take it out in any direction to enlarge it. An L" set-up works well , with food at one end and water at the other if you want to exercise your birds.
Or a "T" set up where, if desired, you can cordon off the 2 sides of the crossbar of the "T" for special use pens.
I love tarps and those bungees with the ball at one end for roofing and weatherproofing my yards. Several screws in the uprights in the right places, slip the bungees thru the tarp grommets and slip the bungee ends over the screws. The bungees have just enough "give" to keep the tarp from ripping in the wind, while still holding it in place. If you want, done this way, you can even "double tarp" the roof. I put such a single tarp arrangement up on the yard wall where the prevailing wind hits to keep the wind and rain off my Light Sussex.
Best,
Karen
 
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My apologies for a complete change in direction here, but I would be interested in hearing your takes (everyone) on nutrition. Specifically, I am thinking of nutritional requirements for breeding stock and feeds/supplements for conditioning prior to showing. There are so many opinions on this topic, and I have read several articles written prior to the availability of processed feed, so that I believe I would benefit greatly from the first hand knowledge and experience found among the experienced breeders here on this tread. So, here are my questions....

1. What percentage of protein is minimum and maximum for adults during breeding season? Why?
2. Which vitamins and/or minerals should be supplemented at this time?
3. What is your secret food additive for putting a "glow" on your birds prior to showing?
4. Is there anything that you consider the "cardinal rule" of chicken nutrition? What is it?
 
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