Boosting Cornish Fertility *graphic egg-topsy photos*

[Redhead Rae]

I have a thread in the hatching section, but @WVduckchick suggested I post here. I have a trio of 10 month old LF Dark Cornish that I want to hatch from this year (as many chicks as possible) as my meat birds. Unfortunately, it looks like my rooster might not be doing his job adequately. I set the first 5 eggs in the incubator with 8 eggs from my main flock (a mix of DP breeds). There was no signs of life in the Cornish eggs by candling on day 7 (no visible veining or shadows in the eggs). I did an egg-topsy on them and only one was even fertilized. It looks to have quit on day 3-4.

All 8 of my main flock eggs had signs of life. I set the next 4 Cornish eggs that day. I candled those 4 today (day 7) and they look to have no signs of life. I decided to leave them for another week to see if anything happens, but I'm doubtful. I set this weeks eggs (5 of them) as well.

I know that hatching Cornish eggs can be a bit fiddly. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to boosting Cornish fertility? I was thinking of adding a free choice supplement (kelp, or rooster booster). I have all my birds (over 8 weeks) on a 19% grower/broiler feed with free choice calcium on the side.

Thanks!

 

[Redhead Rae]

Just a note, my main flock is on the same rations.

 

[Redhead Rae]

Anyone?

 

[Redhead Rae]

I talked to a Cornish group on FB and their thinking as to why I'm having issues are as follows:

• They routinely only get fertile eggs from spring to mid summer (Cornish don't breed well in the cold).
• My protein levels are too high and I've allowed my birds to get fat (I doubt this one, but I do need to check body condition).
• The Cockerel is only 10 months and hasn't figured out his technique yet.
• The hens might be refusing the Cockerel and I need to remove them for 2 weeks, let him "own" the space and reintroduce them.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

I don’t breed, so this is what I have gleaned off the net, books, tv etc for the day I can.

Well it is common for some breeds to have a breeding season, so if the Cornish folks say that’s the deal it probably is.

I have heard breeders say fat hens and fat roosters affect breeding too... so you got to get them active, game fowl folks usually put them in scratching boxes cages with a solid floor with corn husks in which they throw the feed about to make the hens or roosters scratch, they do that in the AM then move them to flypens... not sure if the last idea will work with Cornish... free ranging is also suggested, and of course adjusting feed... corn puts weight on. There are other ways to exercise them, water and feed not near each other, obstacles in pen they must navigate up, under, around to get to food or water.

The breeding of roosters to hens, there are ratios some folks use to insure fertility. Some folks do one on one, or one rooster and two hens or bring each hen to the rooster once a week sort of thing to help up fertility. The big farms sometimes give testosterone shots.

Everyone agrees the healthier the hen and rooster the better chance of fertility. Nutrition and fresh water are always on the top of the lists. Vitamins in the water might help, but you got to change the vitawater out after 3 hours as it’s flavor and smell changes... replace with regular water is the advice I have collected so far.

Age and flock postition might be a deal too, if you can observe him with his girls that might help you understand what is going on.

On the letting him own his space I have run across that as making young stags “macho” And that might help, when you are ready to add the hen, I suggest just one at first, see if you get fertile eggs from her. The one hen to one rooster for young rooster I think is suggested to help build his confidence and relax him into a dominate position in his mind for the flock. Once he is all macho then add anothe4 hen sort of deal.

Keep in mind this is all stuff I have pretty much just read or watched shows on... disclaimer I got zip experience but the advice seems logical.

There is AI too.

Good luck keep us posted.

 

[Mosey2003]

Especially if they all grew up together, remove him. I'd agree on at least two weeks. They don't catch on to their job as well if they all grow up and mature together, you want him, well, randy...lol

I've also heard to give the rooster a sardine every day while sequestered.

 

[Lauravonsmurf]

Diet can effect rooster sperm... something you might want to check on too. Take all this advice with a grain of salt... and research it. But diet does come up. I have read too much calcium for roosters is bad, feeding 3-4 chick peas disguised as something more tasty helps boost their fertility, sprouted foragade oats are suppose to boost fertility, maybe get Breeder ration for him, French millet, whole grains, oily fish, full fat dairy, garlic, chilies, honey, spinach, lean red meat, oysters (foods high in zinc, pumpkin seeds, nuts, whole grains, oysters) are all suppose to be good, avoid bread. On the bread issue don’t feed him pellets as it is mainly supposedly bread or cereal waste... I do believe there are some other no no feeds that effect rooster sperm, can’t remember them all.

Trimming the feathers so it is easier for the birds to mate is another common suggestion.

 

[Redhead Rae]

Good news. Last week I candled the 4 Cornish eggs I set the previous week. All 4 had wiggly embryos!

I hadn't gotten around to changing anything in their diet or removing the rooster for a bit. my guess it was one or a combination of 3 things.

• It has been warmer with more daylight recently, so they've been getting busy.
• The rooster figured out the proper technique
• I started them in my new Brinsea Ovation 28 EX that has been rock solid on temp and humidity. I've heard Cornish eggs are more fragile and harder to hatch than other chicken eggs.