BREEDING FOR PRODUCTION...EGGS AND OR MEAT.

This is all VERY helpful. I am not planning to sell eggs, but when I start adding up who I want to GIVE eggs/meat in exchange for helping me tend the chickens when I'm gone or other services, or for barter (e.g., for milk), it just appeals to me to have a self-sustaining/producing flock (and I think BCM roosters are pretty!). The silencing would be for the breeding roosters that are sticking around, I was thinking. I think part of why I'm so exhausted with this is that I AM probably getting way ahead of myself and need to start simpler - I appreciate the encouragement to do just that. I DO want to breed Naked Necks and NNxNHRs, so I will probably at a minimum keep one or a couple good NN roosters from the batch of chicks this fall. JRNash, thanks for the input on housing roosters together and specific pairings. I'm also re-reading the Storey's Guide section on breeding as well. I think keeping roosters together separately and all the hens together in one coop will allow me to keep things simpler, housing-wise, and also be flexible enough for any future plans...

And yes, Angela, my girls LOVE fire ants!!! You should have seen the carnage when they found their first fire ant mound in their run/pen at about 10 weeks old (under a waterer that I moved). It was a massacre... Very satisfying to watch.
big_smile.png


Here's another question, then. Seems simple, but... for those of you who don't just do total free range (but instead do a movable pasture/paddock type system), how do you move your chickens to where you want them to be for the day? While ideally I would have paddocks like wedges of a pie based from the coop, and rotate them in each in turn, I may wish to be able to put them elsewhere from time to time. For instance, at a minimum, I would like my chickens to turn over some of my garden beds at the end of the season - I can't imagine rounding them all up in little cages and carrying them back to where I want them one by one... Or is that what people do?!
hu.gif


- Ant Farm

Edit to add: @hellbender and @draye , if I had to pick only one breed, it would likely be the Naked Necks. :D

Honestly, I think you're getting too complicated and doing more with a dual purpose breed would be far easier than trying to have multiple breeds for meat only and eggs only and try to breed them well.

We have one breed, we keep backup breeders in case of loss, and we have far more eggs than we can ever use or even give away and we still have plenty for oiling and put into long term storage, and often wind up throwing away/composting eggs because we and the chickens can only eat so many eggs. We are slowly increasing our ability to be self sustaining with meat as well. It would go faster if we were not worried about other issues such as breeding to the SOP, but we could technically be self sufficient for meat as well with our dual purpose birds if we chose to hatch more per year. Having one breed to focus on and to breed well, with paying attention to both meat and egg production aspects (and in our case SOP aspects too), is much more workable than trying to figure out what to do with multiple breeds.

Only a few of our males are able to live together in peace once they are adults, without having the pen look like the TX Chainsaw Massacre every day. We do keep separate grow out pens for cockerels and pullets. Some hatches of cockerels don't fight much amongst each other, other hatches of cockerels that grow out together fight worse and seems like they try to kill each other all the time. It just depends on how the group dynamics turns out and it can be fine for a while and then the balance of power will shift and things get un-fine. It's a never ending process and you can't say you're going to do it one way only because sure as the world, you're gonna wind up in a situation where you have to change things up or literally risk having a good potential breeder being killed in a cock fight. Other than our grow out pens, we house both actively breeding males and backup breeding males either by themselves in smaller houses (but they can see each other and other birds), or they live with groups of females.

If you put your two breeders into a free range flock at the same time, you run the risk of them killing each other, and also of losing one or both of them during one predator attack. Personally, none of our best breeders are allowed to free range unsupervised - they stay penned and only roam the pasture when we are armed and in the pasture paying attention only to them. It can set back a breeding program substantially to lose a breeder, even when you have backups in case of loss.

We move our birds at night when they are on the roosts. Those in houses with doors, we can move while it is twilight. Those in the completely open air pens get moved after complete darkness, so they stay on their roosts while we move them to where we want them.

I would not put one of those anti-crow collars on a bird. The risk for getting caught on something or having another bird grab it twist it - in either case strangling the bird, is too great.
 
This is all VERY helpful. I am not planning to sell eggs, but when I start adding up who I want to GIVE eggs/meat in exchange for helping me tend the chickens when I'm gone or other services, or for barter (e.g., for milk), it just appeals to me to have a self-sustaining/producing flock (and I think BCM roosters are pretty!). The silencing would be for the breeding roosters that are sticking around, I was thinking. I think part of why I'm so exhausted with this is that I AM probably getting way ahead of myself and need to start simpler - I appreciate the encouragement to do just that. I DO want to breed Naked Necks and NNxNHRs, so I will probably at a minimum keep one or a couple good NN roosters from the batch of chicks this fall. JRNash, thanks for the input on housing roosters together and specific pairings. I'm also re-reading the Storey's Guide section on breeding as well. I think keeping roosters together separately and all the hens together in one coop will allow me to keep things simpler, housing-wise, and also be flexible enough for any future plans...

And yes, Angela, my girls LOVE fire ants!!! You should have seen the carnage when they found their first fire ant mound in their run/pen at about 10 weeks old (under a waterer that I moved). It was a massacre... Very satisfying to watch.
big_smile.png


Here's another question, then. Seems simple, but... for those of you who don't just do total free range (but instead do a movable pasture/paddock type system), how do you move your chickens to where you want them to be for the day? While ideally I would have paddocks like wedges of a pie based from the coop, and rotate them in each in turn, I may wish to be able to put them elsewhere from time to time. For instance, at a minimum, I would like my chickens to turn over some of my garden beds at the end of the season - I can't imagine rounding them all up in little cages and carrying them back to where I want them one by one... Or is that what people do?!
hu.gif


- Ant Farm

Edit to add: @hellbender and @draye , if I had to pick only one breed, it would likely be the Naked Necks. :D

The average bird forages within 160' of their house. It does vary according to the birds. My Catalanas will go as far as 500' etc. Move the house too far, and they will be confused about where to roost. Move the house little by little. It is helpful that after big moves, leave them locked up until they are conditioned. Then initially, just in the evenings so that they do not wander too far.

What I am calling a big move might be different than what you would call it.
 
Anti crow collars are frankly, silly.

If crowing is a problem, another hobby is in order. Rabbits do not crow.

A good fence and a good dog has always allowed my birds to free range. I would not keep birds without a good fence and a good dog.

People have been free ranging birds for thousands of years, and suddenly in 2015, it is not a good idea. It all boils down to management.
 
Yes the NN is indeed impressive.
I currently have done Welsummers hens but not really that impressed by them. I've had them about 2 months now and have gotten exactly 5 eggs from them. I knew when I got then they were molting but I think they should have picked up by now.

I'm running a Jersey Giant with a few if my hens right now trying to improve size a little. Not wanting a giant sized NN but just a bit bigger than usual.

This coming September I'll be selling off three of my roosters, I have skins reserves that I'm wanting to use in my Calico NN project.

I'm really looking around for some higher production (eggs) breeds to infuse into the NN. Mine lay pretty well but feel they could improve just a bit more. I like the every other day layers.

draye, the Chantecler is purported to be a pretty good layer...around 200 eggs per year. I'd say that would be under optimum conditions but it's plenty for me. My NNs do a bit less than that. All I need are eggs enough to put into the bator.

The Chantecler cocks average in size ...around 10+ pounds at maturity, with very broad backs and I think that will go nicely with my already sizable NNs. I wanted to give this a go, just for my own satisfaction. The family is putting plenty of 'heft' into their birds and if I ever feel that I need it...it's here for the grabbing. I think crossing the Chanteclers into the NNs will give them a bit more size, just by virtue of hybridization, not to mention the C, size. We'll see.
 
Other than our grow out pens, we house both actively breeding males and backup breeding males either by themselves in smaller houses (but they can see each other and other birds), or they live with groups of females.

I have a small follow up question about how you house your breeder and backup males. When you say that they are housed by themselves but where they can see each other and other birds, I was wondering a bit about logistics of this. Do they share a (wire) wall with the hens (e.g., either up against or even within the main coop), or are you describing an entirely separate enclosure for each rooster, but within a certain visible distance (if so, what would that distance be)? Am I correct also in assuming that you would not want to have different males in immediately adjacent pens because of potential fighting through the wire?

(I'm just trying to think about the housing logistics of where the rooster houses would go.)

Thanks again for all the great advice!

- Ant Farm
 
The average bird forages within 160' of their house. It does vary according to the birds. My Catalanas will go as far as 500' etc. Move the house too far, and they will be confused about where to roost. Move the house little by little. It is helpful that after big moves, leave them locked up until they are conditioned. Then initially, just in the evenings so that they do not wander too far.

What I am calling a big move might be different than what you would call it.
Sorry, I didn't mean move their permanent home, I meant when you want to have them range/work in a specific area during the day. People talk/write about it all the time, taking a few hens and putting them in a 4x8 tractor fit on top of a raised bed for the day to work the soil as part of crop rotation. The point of the tractor would be to keep them on the bed they are supposed to be working, and not damaging other crops in the garden (from which they would usually be excluded during ranging). I was just wondering how one moved them from coop to garden tractor in the morning and back in the afternoon - catching and carrying each one sounds like a giant pain and stressful for the birds. Do people use a little red wagon?
lau.gif


gjensen, I realize you may not know if you don't do this, I was just hoping someone who did could explain - I have yet to see it addressed in a book or here, though perhaps I'm not using the right search terms?

Thanks for everyone's patience with my questions...

- Ant Farm
 
Sorry, I didn't mean move their permanent home, I meant when you want to have them range/work in a specific area during the day. People talk/write about it all the time, taking a few hens and putting them in a 4x8 tractor fit on top of a raised bed for the day to work the soil as part of crop rotation. The point of the tractor would be to keep them on the bed they are supposed to be working, and not damaging other crops in the garden (from which they would usually be excluded during ranging). I was just wondering how one moved them from coop to garden tractor in the morning and back in the afternoon - catching and carrying each one sounds like a giant pain and stressful for the birds. Do people use a little red wagon?
lau.gif


gjensen, I realize you may not know if you don't do this, I was just hoping someone who did could explain - I have yet to see it addressed in a book or here, though perhaps I'm not using the right search terms?

Thanks for everyone's patience with my questions...

- Ant Farm

Catching and moving chickens twice daily isn't fun for anyone. We did this for a bit with my CX pullets when I decided they needed to go on the Jenny Craig pasture for a bit and not hang out with the main flock during the day. Needless to say, the summer got hot and there was too much running involved for us and the chickens to keep it up.

Now, I don't use tractors myself, but as far as I know those 4'x8' tractors ARE the coop. Typically they're built with a small secure box inside that has a roost and an area to nest. When it's time to move the tractor you do it when the chickens have gone into the coop part to roost.

We like to front-load our work. For us we simply open chicken-sized gates off our run to give them access to different areas of the property. It's much simpler for us and less stress for the chickens. Also, if we were to need someone to farm-sit for us it's easier on them, especially if they have limited experience.

If I were to utilize the chickens in the garden (versus their current job up at the barn turning compost for us) I would build the main coop near the garden and run "chicken tunnels" around the garden with doors that could be opened or closed to give them access to certain areas. Raised beds could easily be closed off for the chickens to work on with some fiberglass rods and a small section of fencing. You can do a google image search for "chicken tunnels in garden" to get an idea of how they're built. Although I will note that a lot of them seem to be built of either chicken wire or are fairly narrow. Something bigger and sturdier would stand up to time and predators better.
 
I have a small follow up question about how you house your breeder and backup males. When you say that they are housed by themselves but where they can see each other and other birds, I was wondering a bit about logistics of this. Do they share a (wire) wall with the hens (e.g., either up against or even within the main coop), or are you describing an entirely separate enclosure for each rooster, but within a certain visible distance (if so, what would that distance be)? Am I correct also in assuming that you would not want to have different males in immediately adjacent pens because of potential fighting through the wire?

(I'm just trying to think about the housing logistics of where the rooster houses would go.)

Thanks again for all the great advice!

- Ant Farm
We can't let them share wire between their pens, they will fight through the wire. Occasionally have to break up cock fights when a cock that is ranging decides to run up to a pen and fight with the cock inside the pen through the wire. And it can get bloody even with wire between them if I don't break it up fast enough.

All of our housing is mobile and ranges from the small a-frames that house single cocks, or a couple of hens if need be, up to large sheds on axles/tires that you can stick a twin bed in and a kid could live in it for a bedroom.

There's no set distance that we have as far as keeping them separated. The closest the pens may be to each other is 3 feet - the space around each pen is simply to allow us an easy time to service the pen with food/water etc., as well as to make it easy to hook up to the lawnmower or tractor and move each pen to fresh grass just by pulling straight ahead until the entire pen is on new ground. The smaller pens tend to be put closer together or closer to larger pens that may hold hens or the grow out pens, but that is because it is easier to maneuver the small pens compared to our big ones that we can walk inside of. The bigger pens are spread out more just for ease of poultry care and getting them fresh grass since they don't turn on a dime.

Our smallest a-frames are 4 ft x 8 ft and approx. 3 ft tall and they do a nice job of giving a full grown rooster of nearly 10 lbs, room to stretch and flap his wings, strut up and down and show off to the rooster next to him, and still have room to dig in the dirt. They are open air, with the back end being the coop portion which is covered with 1 inch foam board insulation and *plastic* corrugated roofing panels, with 1/4 inch hardware cloth over the insulation boards but underneath the roofing panels for predator protection. The *run* portions are hardware cloth layered with welded wire on our smaller pens. The large pens have chicken wire layered with welded wire but they are not suitable for putting small chicks/birds in like our small a-frames with the hardware cloth on them.

We also make some of the small ones that are 10 ft long that are able to house a couple of cocks comfortably, and we do have a couple of pairs of cocks that live together. Otherwise the slightly longer *small* pens can house more hens at one time or a cock and a few hens.

We do have males that live year round in different pens with females, otherwise we would need a lot more pens. But we keep way more birds, especially males, than most folks because we are not only dealing with rare birds that are difficult to find if we have any losses, but we also have multiple bloodlines and color varieties, so we have backup breeders for each of those.

When we have a cock that is going to breed with a specific set of females, then we just move roosters around to get the right male with the right females, a month or so before we get ready to collect eggs for incubation.

Here's what the *small* pens look like. They are fast to build, not very expensive, and very sturdy. You can see some of the other large chicken tractors in the pasture in the background. Our large a-frame chicken tractors are essentially like this, just much bigger with room for us to walk in and not have to bend over when we are underneath the ridge beam.









 

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