Persistent bumblefoot

[Brashlie]

I have two quail that I’ve been battling bumblefoot on for 2-3 months! I’ve done twice a day soaks, minor surgery and wrapping, and even antibiotics for one. It seems like these methods have kept it from getting worse but a scab remains and swelling continues if I stop treatment. I can’t keep soaking these birds for the rest of their lives! Anyone had bumblefoot persist so long?
Also, most of the hutch recommendations are for a wire bottom for cleanliness to avoid such problems so that’s what I did. But the vet told me they shouldn’t be on wire. How do so many others with wire floors not have this problem all the time?

 

[gtaus]

Also, most of the hutch recommendations are for a wire bottom for cleanliness to avoid such problems so that’s what I did. But the vet told me they shouldn’t be on wire.

Welcome to the BYC forums!

I have never had quail, but I have been raising chickens on dry deep bedding in the coop for 5+ years and never had a problem with bumblefoot. I don't know where you live, but I live in northern Minnesota and have to consider our cold winters. Anyways, here is some information I looked up concerning wire cage bottoms versus the dry deep bedding system I use...

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Quail can be raised on either wire-bottom cages or deep bedding, but deep bedding is generally better for their health, comfort, and winter survival—especially in cold climates like Minnesota. Wire cages are easier to clean but can cause foot injuries and cold stress.

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Wire-Bottom Cages: Pros and Cons​

Pros:

• Easy waste management: Droppings fall through the wire, reducing ammonia buildup.
• Efficient cleaning: Less frequent bedding changes; just empty the tray below.
• Space-saving: Ideal for stacked or compact setups.

Cons:

• Foot injuries: Wire can cause bumblefoot, abrasions, and long-term leg issues BackYard Chickens.
• Cold exposure: In freezing temps, wire floors can lead to frostbite or hypothermia BackYard Chickens.
• Stress and discomfort: Quail prefer solid ground for dust bathing and nesting.

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Deep Bedding (Like Chickens): Pros and Cons​

Pros:

• Comfort and enrichment: Quail can scratch, dust bathe, and nest naturally YouTube.
• Insulation: Bedding retains warmth, protecting feet in winter BackYard Chickens.
• Compostable waste: Bedding mixed with droppings can be composted for garden use YouTube.

Cons:

• More maintenance: Bedding needs regular cleaning to prevent odor and moisture buildup.
• Higher cost: Frequent bedding replacement can add up.
• Pest risk: Moist bedding can attract flies or mites if not managed properly.

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Best Practices for Minnesota Winters​

Given your location, where winters can be brutal:

• Avoid wire-only setups outdoors—cold metal can cause frostbite.
• Use deep bedding in insulated pens or greenhouses.
• Consider quail tractors or converted dog crates with pine shavings, which offer mobility and composting benefits YouTube.

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Sources:
BackYard ChickensBackYard Chickens discussion on quail bedding vs wire
YouTubeGuten Yardening deep litter quail cage setup

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I hope some of that info and/or links will be helpful. IMHO, I would not put birds on wire floors. I have had great success with dry deep bedding so I'm sticking with that method. Good luck.

 

[Debbie292d]

Good info above about the wire floors!

As for the bumblefoot, I've never dealt with it in many years of raising silkies. We use horse bedding pellets and they're stuck in the coop for weeks in the wintertime sometimes, and never have had an issue.

If I did, here are the articles I'd refer to:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/bumblefoot-in-chickens-my-successful-treatment.75244/

Tricide-neo
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/treating-bumblefoot-with-tricide-neo.513183/

 

[catesquire]

I've been dealing with bumblefoot all summer due to a leaky waterer I didn't catch soon enough while I was still using pine shavings. I've been gradually noticing that less is more with quail bumblefoot; they just need time and a little assistance to heal it themselves.

My own (inexpert, but seems to be working) treatment plan:

I toss the birds in a plain warm water foot bath bin every ~2-4 weeks for about a half hour (I've stopped using epsom salt, as well, since I couldn't actually find any scientific sources for using it and I was worried about how much of it they were drinking), to fully soften the scabs.

The biggest thing I've noticed is that their bodies seem to have trouble getting rid of the scabs, probably because the flooring we keep them on isn't as rough as the terrain they'd have been running over in the wild. So after the soak, I give a light tug around the scab edges with tweezers, and get off what I can WITHOUT reopening the wound (if it starts bleeding on accident, I put on plain Neosporin [no painkillers] and wrap with vet tape for a day).

By doing this, their feet have been getting progressively better, to the point I'm not worried about them any longer. Most are now fully healed with perfect feet; the others have tiny lingering scabs that I think they'll be able to get rid of on their own, though I'll check again in another month.

Basically: I'm giving time for the skin under the scabs to be fully healed, then helping gently peel the stuck scabs off. As far as my birds go, I've never seen sign of the weird hardness inside the wound that chickens apparently get. I don't think you need to keep up your more involved routine--the stress is probably worse for them than the scabs. Unless you notice their feet getting worse, just leave them to heal for longer between treatments, and see if that makes things less stressful for both the birds and you.

If you're keeping them outside, I personally prefer pine pellets as flooring now, since it keeps their feet INCREDIBLY dry while still letting them exhibit natural birdy behaviors like dust bathing and foraging for treats. It's also even easier than wire, since there's no regular tray cleaning; I'm going on two months with the same (deep) pellet bedding without any hygiene issues.

Good luck to you and your birds!