Updated comments on my ovation....

Ive used it to hatch all year and have started to use a styrofoam hatcher. I’m not the happiest with lockdown humidity in the Brinsea. :-/

it holds temperature like a total champ. I love that the turners accommodate eggs either upright or on their side. I don’t like that duck eggs hardly fit in them, and the goose turners are way too large for ducks.

my chief complaint is the humidity. My first hatch in April was not a problem, but since then it has struggled. There are two wells for humidity and I sprang for the automatic EX.... which is a joke. It can’t tell if the water well is full, so it just keeps dropping water in. It totally will flood out just like ALL the reviews say, I can’t believe I didn’t pay attention to that. :-/ I cannot really believe with an incubator this price that that’s a reality but whatever. It is usually fine if I fill both wells and put a bowl of water in the bator. Then I can get to 55-60. The biggest problem with this scenario is that I have YET to go to lockdown in it and not had to refill water once or even TWICE before hatch starts. I don’t know why but this machine sucks humidity out way more than other incubators I’ve used.

All in all, it’s a great steady machine for temps. I don’t regret the purchase really, but I absolutely 100% regret the purchase of the EX.

My brinsea heat plates are notorious for not working in cool temps, @Manhen, so I’d assume the incubator won’t work where they say it won’t.....
 
It can’t tell if the water well is full, so it just keeps dropping water in.
What was the reading on the humidity? What was it set at? That is what is supposed to drive the pump action?

It totally will flood out just like ALL the reviews say
I didn't see any of those either, but I didn't surf more diverse sites...

My brinsea heat plates are notorious for not working in cool temps, @Manhen, so I’d assume the incubator won’t work where they say it won’t.....
Can you fill in more?

EDIT:I mean it just wont keep up? Perhaps run a 50W red bulb higher up to "boost it"?

I ask because you have experience with it and I just have purchaes these and am waiting for eggs in some weeks:
Brinsea 28 and 56 EXs, the 28 for a hatcher in most cases.
Ecobrooder 1200 warming plate.

I intend to harvest fertile eggs and cycle them into the 56 by starting 14-21 at a time 3 days apart and hatching the eggs in the 28 at the end. I have a pasture and some grain fields so raising 100+ birds over the summer is the goal.

I am trying to avoid heating the shop that warm all spring. I think I will put in a chamber of sorts for the cheepers. Got any instant magic?
 
What was the reading on the humidity? What was it set at? That is what is supposed to drive the pump action?


I didn't see any of those either, but I didn't surf more diverse sites...


Can you fill in more?

EDIT:I mean it just wont keep up? Perhaps run a 50W red bulb higher up to "boost it"?

I ask because you have experience with it and I just have purchaes these and am waiting for eggs in some weeks:
Brinsea 28 and 56 EXs, the 28 for a hatcher in most cases.
Ecobrooder 1200 warming plate.

I intend to harvest fertile eggs and cycle them into the 56 by starting 14-21 at a time 3 days apart and hatching the eggs in the 28 at the end. I have a pasture and some grain fields so raising 100+ birds over the summer is the goal.

I am trying to avoid heating the shop that warm all spring. I think I will put in a chamber of sorts for the cheepers. Got any instant magic?
Humidity is set at 55-60 at lockdown. It can maintain 50 with two full wells. Sometimes it can maintain 55, but it can struggle right around there, for me.

I saw multiple reviews here on this site that said it floods, but they seemed to be when it was first introduced and I hoped it had been resolved. As I mentioned earlier if I can keep another dish with water in it, it is fine. It’s absolutely not the end of the world, it’s just disappointing.

I have the first generation heat plates. They changed them last year. I’m not sure if they still have the same range of temperatures for operating.... my two eco glow 20s I use only indoors straight out of the incubator and have premier plates for outside. I had a brinsea on outside in the 40s and there was no warmth to the touch at all on the plate.

I imagine you could setup a lamp to take the cold edge off, but it would defeat the purpose for me... I’m mostly after natural light cycles.

I’d imagine in the summer you shouldn’t have a problem. Does it dip into the 40s at night for you???

I think you should be great with your setup! Especially with one hatcher and one incubator. You’ll learn quickly what is best practices for your specific setup!
 
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I think you should be great with your setup! Especially with one hatcher and one incubator. You’ll learn quickly what is best practices for your specific setup!

Thanks, I don't like flooding. :( The shop I can heat so operating anything at 40F won't happen. I have thought of a 25W red lamp on the bench the bators are on to keep condensation off of the plastic. I think if you had condensation as well (due to low ambient temps) and the setting way high that might cause flooding. Perhaps during hatching the lamp will work well. I raised 3 batches of 30 chicks with a lamp. Worked, but it was a pain. I am hoping this brooder plate is easier. Again, I have thought that an elevated low watt heat lamp wouldn't require adjustment and the brooder plate would suffice. Hope is written on every man's brow....

EDIT: Hope is written upon the brow of all mankind.
 
Updated comments on my ovation....

Ive used it to hatch all year and have started to use a styrofoam hatcher. I’m not the happiest with lockdown humidity in the Brinsea. :-/

it holds temperature like a total champ. I love that the turners accommodate eggs either upright or on their side. I don’t like that duck eggs hardly fit in them, and the goose turners are way too large for ducks.

my chief complaint is the humidity. My first hatch in April was not a problem, but since then it has struggled. There are two wells for humidity and I sprang for the automatic EX.... which is a joke. It can’t tell if the water well is full, so it just keeps dropping water in. It totally will flood out just like ALL the reviews say, I can’t believe I didn’t pay attention to that. :-/ I cannot really believe with an incubator this price that that’s a reality but whatever. It is usually fine if I fill both wells and put a bowl of water in the bator. Then I can get to 55-60. The biggest problem with this scenario is that I have YET to go to lockdown in it and not had to refill water once or even TWICE before hatch starts. I don’t know why but this machine sucks humidity out way more than other incubators I’ve used.

All in all, it’s a great steady machine for temps. I don’t regret the purchase really, but I absolutely 100% regret the purchase of the EX.

My brinsea heat plates are notorious for not working in cool temps, @Manhen, so I’d assume the incubator won’t work where they say it won’t.....
Dunno if it will stave off any problems, but I just spent a full 15 minutes on the phone to Brinsea. I discussed many of the problems I have heard and this is a summary:

Failing Fans: New models have a 7 blade fan that replaces the 9 blade fan.
Speeds between the 28 and 56 fans are the same.
Condensate/flooding is an issue in high humidity environments. No explanation if it is a problem they are working on, but no solutions were offered when I asked. I suggested a low watt (25) red lamp overhead but their objection was it would affect the temperature. I think a test is in order.
The brooder I have, the 1200 is new and they have no stats to report yet, but they were quick to point out that you can't feel the heat with your hand, the chick can. Hmm, mebee so, mebee so... I will provide an update after I get a batch or two through.
The biggest cause of failure is power surges. Less than $100 at Staples for a battery backup that will last for hours and protect your investment. Plus a small light will always work so you can watch them if the power goes out. For entertainment you know. The chicks, not the eggs. That would be boring, and weird. ….

I also did not ask if putting ballast, in the form of full water bottles, in the unused portions of the incubator. This would reduce swings in temperature upon opening. Pre-warm the water would be easier on your incubator.

So you are right on with those issues, they know about them. Looks manageable. Now for some reasonably priced hatching mats....
 
Dunno if it will stave off any problems, but I just spent a full 15 minutes on the phone to Brinsea. I discussed many of the problems I have heard and this is a summary:

Failing Fans: New models have a 7 blade fan that replaces the 9 blade fan.
Speeds between the 28 and 56 fans are the same.
Condensate/flooding is an issue in high humidity environments. No explanation if it is a problem they are working on, but no solutions were offered when I asked. I suggested a low watt (25) red lamp overhead but their objection was it would affect the temperature. I think a test is in order.
The brooder I have, the 1200 is new and they have no stats to report yet, but they were quick to point out that you can't feel the heat with your hand, the chick can. Hmm, mebee so, mebee so... I will provide an update after I get a batch or two through.
The biggest cause of failure is power surges. Less than $100 at Staples for a battery backup that will last for hours and protect your investment. Plus a small light will always work so you can watch them if the power goes out. For entertainment you know. The chicks, not the eggs. That would be boring, and weird. ….

I also did not ask if putting ballast, in the form of full water bottles, in the unused portions of the incubator. This would reduce swings in temperature upon opening. Pre-warm the water would be easier on your incubator.

So you are right on with those issues, they know about them. Looks manageable. Now for some reasonably priced hatching mats....
Seriously. Hatching mats are so expensive.

but I will say it just seems like you can’t make your own. You can. Chicks don’t get into all those gaps on the sides from the turner bars.

to be totally honest I cannot stand the fact that they say “flooding happens in high humidity environments”...


WHERE was the official warning before I shelled out 600 bucks? It’s left a horrid taste in my mouth about the company in general, even though I begrudgingly know they make great products.
 
to be totally honest I cannot stand the fact that they say “flooding happens in high humidity environments”...
Perhaps I put the wrong meaning into that. I was speaking with them about condensation/flooding, so I don't want to misrepresent what they said to me. I think those sensors by their nature work much less accurately at low and high %RH. If you live in a high humidity environment, and have high temps, the machine may make an error for that reason and keep pumping. Fail safe mode should be humidify, not let it dry out.

They also said not to place a cover directly on it,

and that it would pump the water up from a reservoir below the incubator! This may be a key to prevent siphoning, which may be what you had. I am going to test how well this works, like how far below. I am going to guess "exactly far enough but no more or no less".

EDIT: Now what else did they tell me that I didn't pass on. Let's see, her name is Sally, she is single, luvs baby chickens, and "no" cuz I am married! (OK, I made that up...)
 
I feel like the issue overall is the surface area of their wells. Humidity is surface area, plain and simple. In many locales, the surface area they provide does not provide for ample enough humidity. for me, that’s about 50-55 percent humidity. Two wells will hit near that mark. If you’re trying for sixty, it will just keep adding water and flooding the bottom until enough surface area is created.

my problem is with their cardboard hatch mats, when the well overflows, the cardboard soaks up water and then I spike above 60, which I don’t really want.

the machine itself is wonderful and great, I just think the humidity control is not necessary for many people, because you’re going to be doing it on your own anyway.

info agree they’re helpful on many issues, I just feel like they ignore this one.
 
In many locales, the surface area they provide does not provide for ample enough humidity. for me, that’s about 50-55 percent humidity. Two wells will hit near that mark. If you’re trying for sixty, it will just keep adding water and flooding the bottom until enough surface area is created.
So now I am thinking: The wells aren't big enough. Why? Outside of the incubator is cooler than inside. The water in the well would then be cooler as it is surrounded by outside air except for the top surface. This would not evaporate fast enough? I think maybe their testing environment is nice and warm from the bottom. I have lined my workbench with 1" Styrofoam on the surface and 12" up the sides and back. I agree, even if all this works in the worst environments...should we have to?
 

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