Brooder Heating Conundrum

Which model Brinsea heater did you get? I purchased the model 600. Says it's good for 15 chicks, but looks too small for that many. I'm getting 6 chicks.
I’m pretty sure I got the Brinsea Safety 1200 model, kept it adjusted low enough so it touched the backs of the chicks when they go under it so it keeps them warm. They will come out when they get warm enough.
I read too many horror stories about fires from dust and feathers flying and touching light bulbs/ heat sources , the Brinsea does not pose that risk.
 
I'm getting chicks this spring for the first time. I'm researching like crazy, and I've hit a brick wall on what the best brooder heating solution is for me. I'm getting 6 chicks. I'm looking at either a small kiddie pool, or a large storage tote for my brooder. Infrared heat lamps are not very energy efficient, and there is a risk of fire. The overhead heat pads with adjustable legs may have less fire risk, but I've read where many who have tried them aren't satisfied that the chicks get warm enough. Has anyone used the ceramic heater bulbs like you use for reptiles? I keep coming back to the old infrared heat lamp as the best solution. Is the risk of fire that pervasive? Thanks for any input and wisdom you can share!!
I am where you are. First & foremost don’t do the lizard light, it’s for lizards. The heat lamp with a heat lamp bulb ( I say this cuz at Atwoods they had a regular light & their chicks were cold). Or order a brooder light on Amazon. They aren’t too expensive, come with good instruction. I actually have both because I was concerned they wouldn’t be warm enough. This is what I got. This is my first set of chicks so I am excited. I got my first chickens in December & they are doing great. I made sure they have a heated water source & food available all the time. I did put a heat light in my coop & on extremely cold days I don’t let them free range.
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I'm getting chicks this spring for the first time.... I'm getting 6 chicks.
I found this on the internet. I think it will address the brooder space that some of you have pointed out. This will give me almost 16 sq ft.

Do you have their coop yet?

I would suggest just brooding in the coop, if you can run an extension cord out there for electricity.

Then you will not have a big brooder, that cost money and takes up storage space, once the chicks are done with it.

If the coop provides 4 square feet per chicken (or more), that amount of space is fine for chicks too. Block them into a smaller place for the first few days so they learn where the heat, food, and water are, and then let them have the whole space to explore.

Brooding in the coop saves you all the bother of setting up two different spots.
It makes sure you HAVE a coop by the time the chicks are ready for it.
It is very easy to acclimate the chicks to outdoor temperatures: just leave the heat source in one corner until you see that the chicks never use the heat, then remove the heat. All done.

If I put this in the garage, it will be on concrete. Will this be a concern, or should I have some plywood down first?
When I have brooded chicks on a concrete garage floor, I put down this:
--tarp to protect the floor
--cardboard over the tarp, because I didn't want chicks directly on plasticy tarp
--bedding on top of the cardboard ("bedding" was paper towels in the first few days, and after that I added lots of dry leaves, some clumps of grass with dirt attached, a few shovels of loose dirt, etc. This seemed to work great for the chicks, but everything else in the garage got covered with a lot of dust.)

I used a heat lamp in one corner of my brooder space, which was 4 feet by 6 feet. Some chicks were running to the far side of the brooder by their second day after shipping. Since the heat lamp warms the floor underneath it as well, and I started it running the day before the chicks arrived, I was not concerned about the cold concrete floor.

Some people say heat lamps are bad because they provide constant light.
I will point out, that same light attracts the chicks to the lamp, so you do not have to train the chicks where the heat is. A broody hen does not make light, but she does cluck to call the chicks. So they get some guidance that way too. A heat plate requires the chicks to learn what it is without the guidance of light or motherly clucking.
And chicks under a red lamp DO sleep at night (evidence: late-night checks by me. After the sun goes down and other lights go off, the chicks lay down to sleep until morning.)

Heat lamps are not always the best choice, but I think some of the points against them are overstated by people who do not use them and never have used them. I see the main problems as being too much heat for a small brooder in a warm house, and risk of fire from a heat lamp that falls down. (Yes, I personally know someone who had their chicken coop burn down because the heat lamp started a fire.)
 
Do you have their coop yet?

I would suggest just brooding in the coop, if you can run an extension cord out there for electricity.

Then you will not have a big brooder, that cost money and takes up storage space, once the chicks are done with it.

If the coop provides 4 square feet per chicken (or more), that amount of space is fine for chicks too. Block them into a smaller place for the first few days so they learn where the heat, food, and water are, and then let them have the whole space to explore.

Brooding in the coop saves you all the bother of setting up two different spots.
It makes sure you HAVE a coop by the time the chicks are ready for it.
It is very easy to acclimate the chicks to outdoor temperatures: just leave the heat source in one corner until you see that the chicks never use the heat, then remove the heat. All done.


When I have brooded chicks on a concrete garage floor, I put down this:
--tarp to protect the floor
--cardboard over the tarp, because I didn't want chicks directly on plasticy tarp
--bedding on top of the cardboard ("bedding" was paper towels in the first few days, and after that I added lots of dry leaves, some clumps of grass with dirt attached, a few shovels of loose dirt, etc. This seemed to work great for the chicks, but everything else in the garage got covered with a lot of dust.)

I used a heat lamp in one corner of my brooder space, which was 4 feet by 6 feet. Some chicks were running to the far side of the brooder by their second day after shipping. Since the heat lamp warms the floor underneath it as well, and I started it running the day before the chicks arrived, I was not concerned about the cold concrete floor.

Some people say heat lamps are bad because they provide constant light.
I will point out, that same light attracts the chicks to the lamp, so you do not have to train the chicks where the heat is. A broody hen does not make light, but she does cluck to call the chicks. So they get some guidance that way too. A heat plate requires the chicks to learn what it is without the guidance of light or motherly clucking.
And chicks under a red lamp DO sleep at night (evidence: late-night checks by me. After the sun goes down and other lights go off, the chicks lay down to sleep until morning.)

Heat lamps are not always the best choice, but I think some of the points against them are overstated by people who do not use them and never have used them. I see the main problems as being too much heat for a small brooder in a warm house, and risk of fire from a heat lamp that falls down. (Yes, I personally know someone who had their chicken coop burn down because the heat lamp started a fire.)

:goodpost:
 
The number of chicks stated for various brooder plates seems to be for new hatchlings.
I took this from Brinsea's "Frequently asked questions". Notice the 20 newly hatched chicks.

The EcoGlow Safety 600 Chick Brooder is ideal to raise up to 20 newly hatched chicks or ducklings (10 to 12 older chicks depending on age and size).

Ok, thanks!! I hope that 6 chicks will fit as long as they need heat!!
If you got the 600 you should be fine with 6 chicks.
 
I made @aart ’s version of the mama hen heating pad where it is shaped more like a heat plate and it worked amazingly well. I did have to hers the chicks under it a couple times before they caught on that it was the warm place, but then they LOVED it. You can tell you have the temps right by their chirps. Quiet little peeps and twitters are happy chicks. Car alarm type peeping is a chick who has a problem - very likely too hot or cold.

I used a 9x9 sunbeam heating pad (NO auto shutoff) on top of the wire rack from my old toaster over. I attached legs I stole from a cookie cooling rack. That was PLENTY big enough for the 3 chicks I had at the time - would likely work for 6. Don’t put it in the corner of the enclosure, since you always want them to be able to easily leave so they don’t over heat AND you don’t want one to get smothered up against the corner.

I am happy to share more details if you like?

My other main tips for first timers is that the rubbermaid tote will not last you long, but is fun for that first week since you can have them in the room with you while you watch tv or whatever. But have a bigger setup ready!

Also, I found that mixing water with the chick crumble food so it is similar to applesauce really seemed to help them stay hydrated and they didn’t spread it around the cage as much. Oh and add pebbles to their water or use nipple waterers so they don’t drown. (Baby chicks are basically LOOKING for ways to die that first week or so.)
I love all the knowledge we share, This modified heat source is perfect. I am so impressed with the way it’s set up, I am defiantly going to use your idea soon. 👍👍👍
 
If you talk to hatcheries they say do not use plastic tubs to brood in, I think it has something to do with air flow, I think a baby swimming pool would be okay, because chicks can get away from the heat if it gets too hot, but evenually at the 2 week mark, you will have to have a cover for the pool because they will hop out.
I am NOT a big fan of wood shavings for new chicks because the shavings get in with the food, and water and confuses chicks as they are learning to eat.
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