Broody bleeding from nostrils, very pale, won't eat - please help me

[caralouise1974]

Anyone got any thoughts?

 

[caralouise1974]

Sorry, but I'm bumping myself! I'd love some second opinions from any of you guys out there...

 

[mypicklebird]

If mites/anemia and starvation is her only problem(s), treating her for the mites (sevin dust or pyrethrin dust) will help quite a bit- but you need to get her to eat. Can you take her to a vet for a demo of gavage feeding? Or do you know anyone (local chicken friends or foster kitten raisers) who can show you? It is actually very easy to pass a tube into the crop and pump them full of whatever you want (I would suggest parrot hand feeding formula or blenderized flock raiser with vits and electrolytes added). You should be shown the first time, and will need to get supplies (big syringe and feeding tube) which is why the vet visit would also be useful. Good luck.

 

[Year of the Rooster]

Make sure she is drinking too. Nose bleeds could be a sign of dehydration.

 

[caralouise1974]

Thanks guys - I never knew nosebleeds could indicate dehydration. What on earth is possessing this chicken to let herself get into this state? She's always been a picky eater, but I've never seen anything like this.

It didn't occur to me that she wouldn't be drinking either.

I will certainly try and get the feed via tube into her crop, along with some fluids too.

 

[mypicklebird]

dehydration or just low humidity and dried out sinuses can cause nosebleeds in people, but have never heard/seen this happen in a bird/dog/cat/reptile ect.

For the tube feeding/gavage---- don't do this unless you know what you are doing, look for someone local to demo/help you until you are comfortable. It is easy to do, but you will want an experienced person to show you where to put it and what to feel for. The chicken will probably not let you put the tube into the trachea (but a weak one might), but if the tube is not down far enough (actually into the crop) and is only in the esophagus- the food may go up instead of down- and she could aspirate.


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[threehorses]

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Mites can make them anemic enough to where they have blood coagulation issues. Add that to her being broody, and it can happen quite quickly. I agree that I wouldn't use a feed tube. Instead, I'd remove the baby and try damp mashes for her. Boiled mashed egg, crumbles, some yogurt, pedialyte etc. I'd also give her 3 drops of polyvisol vitamins daily for a week, or even mist red cell onto her feed twice this week to build up her blood. Dribble some electrolyte water into her mouth. You can mix some of the damp mash (and a little honey or karo) into some water to make a thick broth and dribble that into her beak.

On the mites, you will have to paint the cracks of the wood, and the eyes, with permethrin dust (don't use sevin please) as well as dusting the mama, baby, etc. Mites actually spend their time off the bird and that's where they lay their eggs. So pay careful attention to those areas. You can make a 'paint' out of permethrin dust with mineral oil or water and the dust and paint on the wood areas. Or when you have the baby and mama out, you can spray the area with permethring goat-lice spray (8% I think) or 10% permethrin spray. Mites are tricky, so you'll have to redust the baby in 10 days. Ivermectin will kill the mites on the bird for probably over the 7 days for new hatched mites.

I'm with the others that unless you have a vast amount of experience with the crop tube, please don't do it. Not while she's this weak. The air opening is usually at the back of the tongue, the tube being further. IF you choose to do it, never ever force the tube.

Sounds like she's being a really "good" broody for the baby but not so good for her own health. Remember this next time she broods.

 

[Sonoran Silkies]

Don't see why you need to dust AND do the ivermectin, at least not immediately.

Dust will kill mites or lice that do not bite into her skin and suck her blood. Ivermectin will kill mites & lice that bite, and also worms.​

 

[caralouise1974]

Thanks everyone.

She does seem a little better today. She shared an egg custard tart with me earlier (I never knew she loved custard until now!) and I gave her a juicy worm too. She's also been eating scrambled egg and a little bread as well. And she's still eating tons of clover flower-heads and grass. The chick still gets the first go on everything (except the egg custard!) but she's definitely eating with the chick in sight now. I'm going to give her some aloe vera juice via syringe later today and perhaps take the chick away for half an hour and see if I can get her to eat some more. I've made up some cooked oatmeal mixed with Poultry Spice and added a few drops of child's vitamins and Poultry Drink (iron/phosphorus supplement) and will try and get her to take some of that.

I put the Ivermectin drops on Henny and our other adult hen and dusted the chick. We also sprayed both of our coops with Poultry Shield (UK red mite deterrent) and dusted them with both red mite and louse powders. Henny's condition actually seemed to improve overnight. Her comb has some more colour in it and she was definitely eating more the following morning.

So, do I need to do the Ivermec drops again then, and also re-dust the chick? What about re-spraying the Poultry Shield onto the coop? I'm a bit lost about my schedule of treatment for the adults/chick and coop - can any of you help me with exact instructions/timings?

I do hope I've turned a corner now...

 

[threehorses]

In addition to the treats she really needs some balanced nutrition. The foods that she's eating today are empty other than the vitamins and that worries me if she's anemic. She needs fuel, not just vitamins and whatnot. Can you possibly get her to eat her crumbles? Damp?

The poultry shield sounds great, as does the ivermectin. Hopefully that will work for her. And at least she'll be wormed.

I'm very glad to hear she's doing well and her comb is more indicative of health. That's a wonderful relief.

On the dusting you do that again in 7 days. The ivermectin if you used drops should have at least a7 day efficacy. Mine did as I checked it thoroughly. You shouldn't have to respray the poultry shield. Just repeat when you clean your coops for a preventative.

The ivermectin you can repeat twice yearly unless you see mites earlier. don't do it any earlier than 6 weeks.