Broody Hen Thread!

Speckled Sussex and Marans breeds are known for being good brooders. Welsummers "can" go broody but are not noted as such...however I have a Welsummer/RIR mix that is an excellent broody and mother...and her sister, who I think must be a full Welsummer (breeder wasn't sure if she was mix or full) that went broody on me but didn't stay the course.

The best brooders are Silkies. You can almost set your watch by some of them (particularly mine who is my broody staple...the rest I catch as catch can).

Lady of McCamley
 
I have a broody hen, and she has 3 fake eggs under her, I have no cock so there is no resin for her to be broody and I want eggs, should I stop the broody? and if so, how can I fast? should remove the fake eggs?
 
I have a broody hen, and she has 3 fake eggs under her, I have no cock so there is no resin for her to be broody and I want eggs, should I stop the broody? and if so, how can I fast? should remove the fake eggs?
It's pretty hard to stop a brood if her hormones (and genes) are telling her that she wants motherhood. Obviously her hormones are present whether there is a cock or not, but also obviously she won't hatch chicks without the rooster being present....but she doesn't know that.

You can try to discourage it or simply wait it out. [ Or, give her some eggs to hatch or chicks to foster, we can tell you how to do that on this thread
big_smile.png
]

Things that can discourage broody behavior are:
Consistently and frequently removing the eggs from her nest...if that doesn't work
Gently lift her out from the nest, set her in the yard away from the coop, and give her very yummy treats, repeat several times a day . Usually after a week of this, the hen will come running to you when she sees you, and in a few more days she is out in the yard most of the time (this is my favorite method)...over time this has worked for me.

Or you can try...
Blocking her from the nest....if that doesn't work
Moving her to another area altogether that doesn't allow her to nest....(she'll may just try to nest on the ground)

*Keeping her in less light (ie keeping her in less than 12 hours light each day so that she stops laying)
*Putting her in a hanging wire cage (to cool her down)
*Giving her an ice bath or applying ice compresses to her breast (her hormones are body temp related)

I don't like the more extreme methods of the last three...and honestly...I personally never discourage a sincere brood as I use eager brooders to hatch chicks. I only coax those who aren't committed to brooding (what I call sulking rather than really brooding....on again, off again, moving from nest to nest).

Broody behavior is controlled by hormones (linked to body temp and hours of daylight) and the genes, and some birds are simply determined to brood. If you can, let her do it.

I'm sure others will have some comments.
Lady of McCamley
 
Could you borrow a rooster? I've offered to loan mine out on occasion for a gal who is not in a rural location like I am, and is afraid of upsetting neighbors with a vocal roo.
There are also places to buy fertile eggs.
If you DO NOT want her to brood eggs/chicks, I would definitely remove the fake eggs.
 
if I stop her this time and the time after, will she stop for ever?? so maybe in the future I want to hatch fertile eggs, but no broody hen, or no matter hoe many I times I stop her, will there always be a time she will go broody?

I had a roo but it illegal to have one, in my area :(
 
It's pretty hard to stop a brood if her hormones (and genes) are telling her that she wants motherhood. Obviously her hormones are present whether there is a cock or not, but also obviously she won't hatch chicks without the rooster being present....but she doesn't know that.

You can try to discourage it or simply wait it out. [ Or, give her some eggs to hatch or chicks to foster, we can tell you how to do that on this thread
big_smile.png
]

Things that can discourage broody behavior are:
Consistently and frequently removing the eggs from her nest...if that doesn't work
Gently lift her out from the nest, set her in the yard away from the coop, and give her very yummy treats, repeat several times a day . Usually after a week of this, the hen will come running to you when she sees you, and in a few more days she is out in the yard most of the time (this is my favorite method)...over time this has worked for me.

Or you can try...
Blocking her from the nest....if that doesn't work
Moving her to another area altogether that doesn't allow her to nest....(she'll may just try to nest on the ground)

*Keeping her in less light (ie keeping her in less than 12 hours light each day so that she stops laying)
*Putting her in a hanging wire cage (to cool her down)
*Giving her an ice bath or applying ice compresses to her breast (her hormones are body temp related)

I don't like the more extreme methods of the last three...and honestly...I personally never discourage a sincere brood as I use eager brooders to hatch chicks. I only coax those who aren't committed to brooding (what I call sulking rather than really brooding....on again, off again, moving from nest to nest).

Broody behavior is controlled by hormones (linked to body temp and hours of daylight) and the genes, and some birds are simply determined to brood. If you can, let her do it.

I'm sure others will have some comments.
Lady of McCamley

thank you very much!! I just keep taking her out to the yard but she just goes straight back in, I think ill just let mother nature run it's cores.
 
if I stop her this time and the time after, will she stop for ever?? so maybe in the future I want to hatch fertile eggs, but no broody hen, or no matter hoe many I times I stop her, will there always be a time she will go broody?

I had a roo but it illegal to have one, in my area :(
If you stop her now, she will still likely go broody in the future as it is her hormones and genes that determine whether she will brood or not. Be aware some birds are kind of "one time" girls and after brooding once may never again (my New Hampshire was that way). Some have the genetics to brood seasonally each year. Some breeds are considered "annoyingly" broody, like my Silkie, and I can almost set my watch by her...and count on her to be there for my planned hatchings.

Thus, you won't likely prevent your girl from brooding in the future if those genes and hormones are there; however, you can make a poor brooder of her if you discourage that kind of behavior so that she may not be willing to be focused enough to stay on the nest for the 21 days (or so) it takes to hatch.

If you ever think you want to use a particular bird to brood, do NOT discourage them but encourage them...ie let nature take its course and let them pretend to be a momma on eggs. Make them comfortable while they are doing it. Put vitamins/electrolytes in water that is close by, and feed that does not contain high calcium (layer pellet) as they don't need the calcium but instead has high protein (like starter feed) as she will need energy for the long days ahead and the molt that will occur afterwards. If you don't want chicks yet, in time she will give up the nest and go back to flock life.

You can then determine if this is a bird you want to spend money on getting eggs for. Never use a bird that is a fickle brooder (unless you have a back up broody) for eggs purchased unless they were cheap.

I legally can have a rooster but my neighbors are close enough that I choose not to rock the boat...(nobody's noticed that I've got 20 birds in my back yard....give or take with the seasons).
So I purchase eggs from friends with roos (very cheap, mutts, good for first attempts), or network through BYC or my local chicken swap forum for eggs of more specialized breeds (got my Marans that way), or purchase eggs online that I can't find locally (haven't done that yet...may have to for a couple of special breeds I have in mind...that will cost me $ in shipping so only my most faithful broodies will get those.)

Ask around for fertile eggs; connect through your BYC state thread to find local people. With a little effort you can find fertile eggs. Some feed stores offer them from time to time, but usually they are mix breeds (nothing wrong with that as long as they are mixes you want...ie egg layers if you want eggs, not games). Many local farmers sell eggs and they will be fertile if the roosters are present (just check to be sure they are meant for hatching so that they haven't been refrigerated).

You can also put feed store chicks under a broody hen, if she has been brooding for awhile...especially if she is really disheartened that nothing is hatching. However, it is a little trickier as there is some transition techniques with feed store/heat lamp chicks. If you get to that point, post again.

Good luck.
Lady of Mccamley
 
If you stop her now, she will still likely go broody in the future as it is her hormones and genes that

determine whether she will brood or not. Be aware some birds are kind of "one time" girls and after brooding once may never again (my New Hampshire was that way). Some have the genetics to brood seasonally each year. Some breeds are  considered "annoyingly" broody, like my Silkie, and I can almost set my watch by her...and count on her to be there for my planned hatchings.

Thus, you won't likely prevent your girl from brooding in the future if those genes and hormones are there; however, you can make a poor brooder of her if you discourage that kind of behavior so that she may not be willing to be focused enough to stay on the nest for the 21 days (or so) it takes to hatch.

If you ever think you want to use a particular bird to brood, do NOT discourage them but encourage them...ie let nature take its course and let them pretend to be a momma on eggs. Make them comfortable while they are doing it. Put vitamins/electrolytes in water that is close by, and feed that does not contain high calcium (layer pellet) as they don't need the calcium but instead has high protein (like starter feed) as she will need energy for the long days ahead and the molt that will occur afterwards. If you don't want chicks yet, in time she will give up the nest and go back to flock life. 

You can then determine if this is a bird you want to spend money on getting eggs for. Never use a bird that is a fickle brooder (unless you have a back up broody) for eggs purchased unless they were cheap.

I legally can have a rooster but my neighbors are close enough that I choose not to rock the boat...(nobody's noticed that I've got 20 birds in my back yard....give or take with the seasons).
So I purchase eggs from friends with roos (very cheap, mutts, good for first attempts), or network through BYC or my local chicken swap forum for eggs of more specialized breeds (got my Marans that way), or purchase eggs online that I can't find locally (haven't done that yet...may have to for a couple of special breeds I have in mind...that will cost me $ in shipping so only my most faithful broodies will get those.)

Ask around for fertile eggs; connect through your BYC state thread to find local people. With a little effort you can find fertile eggs. Some feed stores offer them from time to time, but usually they are mix breeds (nothing wrong with that as long as they are mixes you want...ie egg layers if you want eggs, not games). Many local farmers sell eggs and they will be fertile if the roosters are present (just check to be sure they are meant for hatching so that they haven't been refrigerated).

You can also put feed store chicks under a broody hen, if she has been brooding for awhile...especially if she is really disheartened that nothing is hatching. However, it is a little trickier as there is some transition techniques with feed store/heat lamp chicks. If you get to that point, post again.

Good luck.
Lady of Mccamley


thank u!! I am letting her stay broody. I think it's best. thank u very much!! very helpful :D :D. very much apresiated
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom