Broody Hen Thread!

Hi all! I am somewhat of a newbie with chickens, I have had them a year and already I had 2 go broody. Together they hatched 12 chicks. I did not separate them so the chicks were staggered and now I have chicks from 3 days to almost 3 weeks old.

I had them secured in a caged area because I lost one of my first to the rooster stepping on it, I think. Well anyhow today I opened up the cage fully intending to leave them all out with the flock. The momma are both good at protecting them for the most part but there are a couple of hens that they did NOT attack when they pecked at the chicks? Should I rebuild the cage? I don't want to lose any chicks but the two broodies are so restless when they are cooped up in it?

They took all the chicks out in the run for about 2 hours and they all looked so happy...it's just that the one barred rock hen really pecked one of the chicks hard? I just don't know what to do? They do have a somewhat safe shelter area inside the coop that I constructed. It is enclosed on 3 sides but there is no door, just an opening where the broodies can protect the chicks but all can come and go. I just don't know if that's enough?

Honestly, it depends on your tolerance to loss.

Any free range or inclusive ranging has some risks to chicks.

The best thing if you want a sustainable flock is to reasonably rid dangers (like water buckets they can drown in, toxins, easy escape routes from property etc.) and let them integrate and freely range.

However, you will from time to time get loss from either stupid chick tricks or predator loss (hawks are a big problem for me).

If you have any overly aggressive hens, you can continue to lock the chicks up, or lock up the overly aggressive hens, or cull those hens.

If you want to regularly hatch and integrate chicks, you will have to manipulate your flock so that you only keep chick friendly members of the flock.

In time, you can then raise and integrate fairly easily.

Having said that, if this is a one time project, then keep the chicks locked up until they are much older, at least 6 to 8 weeks, then let them integrate in a group. The smaller birds will need hiding places as they endure some hazing from the flock. You will also need to have separate feed and water stations so the lower pecking order birds still get enough to eat and drink.

I find that broody mommas are good at integrating the chicks at 2 to 4 weeks of age (lean to the older if you've got any flock issues), after 4 to 6 weeks of age, momma often is hazing chicks to force them to integrate on their own (depending on the hen). So if you want protection from mommas, that will have to happen within that 2 to 4 week window. I find younger than 2 weeks is when I get the most stupid chick losses, so that can allow for growth and still have mom protection.

For my expensive hatches (ie breeder eggs that I paid good money for coveted breeds to add to my flock), I hatch under bantams in a designated broody hutch that is totally wire/netting/tarp enclosed but has flock viewing. I do not attempt to integrate those birds until they are nearly fully grown, usually at 10-12 weeks of age, to avoid loss from predators, accident or over hazing. Usually I simply place those nearly full grown birds in the coop at night and let nature take its course. My roo settles most disputes and they integrate within a few days to a week.

So bottomline is, it depends upon your goals and your tolerance for possible loss, as well as flock temperament.

LofMc
 
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Honestly, it depends on your tolerance to loss.

Any free range or inclusive ranging has some risks to chicks.

The best thing if you want a sustainable flock is to reasonably rid dangers (like water buckets they can drown in, toxins, easy escape routes from property etc.) and let them integrate and freely range.

However, you will from time to time get loss from either stupid chick tricks or predator loss (hawks are a big problem for me).

If you have any overly aggressive hens, you can continue to lock the chicks up, or lock up the overly aggressive hens, or cull those hens.

If you want to regularly hatch and integrate chicks, you will have to manipulate your flock so that you only keep chick friendly members of the flock.

In time, you can then raise and integrate fairly easily.

Having said that, if this is a one time project, then keep the chicks locked up until they are much older, at least 6 to 8 weeks, then let them integrate in a group. The smaller birds will need hiding places as they endure some hazing from the flock. You will also need to have separate feed and water stations so the lower pecking order birds still get enough to eat and drink.

I find that broody mommas are good at integration the chicks at 2 to 4 weeks of age (older if you've got any flock issues), after 4 to 6 weeks of age, momma often is hazing chicks to force them to integrate on their own (depending on the hen). So if you want protection from mommas, that will have to happen within that window.

For my expensive hatches (ie breeder eggs that I paid good money for coveted breeds to add to my flock), I hatch under bantams in a designated broody hutch that is totally wire/netting/tarp enclosed but has flock viewing. I do not attempt to integrate those birds until they are nearly fully grown, usually at 10 weeks of age, to avoid loss from predators, accident or over hazing. Usually I simply place those nearly full grown birds in the coop at night and let nature take its course. My roo settles most disputes and they integrate within a few days to a week.

So bottomline is, it depends upon your goals and your tolerance for possible loss, as well as flock temperament.

LofMc
Thanks, Most of my birds are tolerant of the chicks or the mommas attack them even before they try to approach. And I am just a homesteader who sells the extra eggs. So nothing professional here
big_smile.png
My chicks are mixed , Barred Rock/Blue Cochin crosses.

I am thinking the hen that pecked at the chicks was angry because I wouldn't let her in the coop to lay. Once she jumped in the box to lay her egg, she left without giving the chicks a second look. I am also wondering if that hen is higher in the pecking order than the broody mommas? Don't know if that makes a difference.

Both my roosters have come into contact with the chicks. My submissive roo pecked a couple but then left them be. The other rooster has not even tried to peck at them...he is the daddy and maybe he knows that?

I am having a nervous breakdown because the broodies took the chicks outside the run to free range a little bit ago! I have the shelter area for them and they have their own food and water in there. and everyone is on Chick starter. I just read the above post where one of you stated that the layer feed can make my roosters sick? I feed fermented layer feed and they have been on it for a year now...no issues yet but they free range all day and very rarely touch the feed unless we have snow cover like the last few days. They do eat it all winter though.
 
Thanks, Most of my birds are tolerant of the chicks or the mommas attack them even before they try to approach. And I am just a homesteader who sells the extra eggs. So nothing professional here
big_smile.png
My chicks are mixed , Barred Rock/Blue Cochin crosses.

I am thinking the hen that pecked at the chicks was angry because I wouldn't let her in the coop to lay. Once she jumped in the box to lay her egg, she left without giving the chicks a second look. I am also wondering if that hen is higher in the pecking order than the broody mommas? Don't know if that makes a difference.

Both my roosters have come into contact with the chicks. My submissive roo pecked a couple but then left them be. The other rooster has not even tried to peck at them...he is the daddy and maybe he knows that?

I am having a nervous breakdown because the broodies took the chicks outside the run to free range a little bit ago! I have the shelter area for them and they have their own food and water in there. and everyone is on Chick starter. I just read the above post where one of you stated that the layer feed can make my roosters sick? I feed fermented layer feed and they have been on it for a year now...no issues yet but they free range all day and very rarely touch the feed unless we have snow cover like the last few days. They do eat it all winter though.
Sounds like free ranging will work for you, and you know that some chick loss is inevitable...but you are homesteading, so hatch more than you need to be able to keep enough.

Roosters can be good daddies or poor. Some ignore chicks, some peck or are clumsy, some protect. (My Barnevelder will chase nosy hens away from momma and chicks...doing his little swoop dance to scoop away dangers).

As to the layer feed. That actually is controversial. Some old timers feed layer to all the flock and don't worry about it and never notice any harm to their roosters.

Technically, the layer feed has too much calcium for roosters and can shut down their kidneys at an earlier age. Some on BYC state they have done necropsies on their roosters and seen kidney damage and/or notice early rooster loss.

Most of us who are interested in eggs turn over our flocks fairly often...about every 2 or 3 years. A good rooster is most fertile within the first 3 years, so often we phase those birds out too. I doubt you will see kidney issues within that time frame.

However, if you were breeding valuable birds, you would keep your best rooster for at least 5 to 7 years (with the first 5 being his most fertile), and you would want to feed him optimally to ensure his best health on longevity. In that time frame, you would see kidney issues arise.

Since you've got a sustainable flock that mostly free ranges, you can probably get away with the layer feed without seeing a lot of problems in your roosters especially if you expect to turn over the flock every 2 to 3 years or so anyway for egg and meat production. (Nothing worse than an old cock...tough old bird...which is why the french simmered in wine for hours to produce Coq Au Vin....cock in wine.)

LofMc
 
We had a crazy wet snow storm move through this weekend and BAM! Two of my hens went broody. I have 9 chicks, 9 hens and a rooster but the new coop should be done tomorrow so I would like to support them in their broodiness! The Buff Orp who went broody, Jenny has been in the same nest box since yesterday but the Australorp, Sparkle switched boxes this morning. I have no idea how many eggs they each sitting on. 2-4 I assume. I have 3 nest boxes in the coop they are in and 4 boxes in the brand new coop we hope to finish tomorrow! I can't really separate them off from the other laying hens because of the way the coop is, but I retrofitted 2 boxes on the floor in hopes the 2 will be left in peace! Then I will move the none broody hens and rooster all into the new coop as soon as it's finished. I'm hoping these 2-3 days don't create a crazy staggered hatch or any other issues! I'm really just hoping this brood works out naturally for these two! I left them water and food just below the nests.

Do I need to provide them anything else? I know isolation would be best for these gals but it won't be an option until at least tomorrow! Thanks!!
 
I really want to pull my hair out! I checked on one of my broodys yesterday morning as usual she's setting on her nest but she has a few eggs poking out from under her seems odd since I KNOW she only has 8 and she's a medium size hen seems like it shouldn't be an issue, right? Well this morning I caught her off the nest there's 14 eggs !!!!!!!!!! I went back in the coop and one of my other hens was in the nest laying a friggin egg! Looks like I'll have to block her in her corner of the coop with her eggs she already has food and water right next to the nest.
Oh yea and my hubby thinks my second broody won't hatch any eggs because she refuses to set inside the coop. Her nest is outside in the secure run in the dirt and pine shavings and we live in Northern MI. He says the ground is too cold for her to keep them at a good temp. Any thoughts?
 
I really want to pull my hair out! I checked on one of my broodys yesterday morning as usual she's setting on her nest but she has a few eggs poking out from under her seems odd since I KNOW she only has 8 and she's a medium size hen seems like it shouldn't be an issue, right? Well this morning I caught her off the nest there's 14 eggs !!!!!!!!!! I went back in the coop and one of my other hens was in the nest laying a friggin egg! Looks like I'll have to block her in her corner of the coop with her eggs she already has food and water right next to the nest.
Oh yea and my hubby thinks my second broody won't hatch any eggs because she refuses to set inside the coop. Her nest is outside in the secure run in the dirt and pine shavings and we live in Northern MI. He says the ground is too cold for her to keep them at a good temp. Any thoughts?

For the second broody, she knows what she is doing. Trust nature. As for the first, my brahma is also a collector. She pulls in eggs that are laid elsewhere in the coop. So on Day 2 I picked her up and marked all of the eggs. This way when I catch her off the nest, I know that she either collected a new egg or someone laid in the nest (since it is always the favorite nest) and I collect the unmarked eggs.
 
Honestly, it depends on your tolerance to loss.

Any free range or inclusive ranging has some risks to chicks.

The best thing if you want a sustainable flock is to reasonably rid dangers (like water buckets they can drown in, toxins, easy escape routes from property etc.) and let them integrate and freely range.

However, you will from time to time get loss from either stupid chick tricks or predator loss (hawks are a big problem for me).

If you have any overly aggressive hens, you can continue to lock the chicks up, or lock up the overly aggressive hens, or cull those hens.

If you want to regularly hatch and integrate chicks, you will have to manipulate your flock so that you only keep chick friendly members of the flock.

In time, you can then raise and integrate fairly easily.

Having said that, if this is a one time project, then keep the chicks locked up until they are much older, at least 6 to 8 weeks, then let them integrate in a group. The smaller birds will need hiding places as they endure some hazing from the flock. You will also need to have separate feed and water stations so the lower pecking order birds still get enough to eat and drink.

I find that broody mommas are good at integrating the chicks at 2 to 4 weeks of age (lean to the older if you've got any flock issues), after 4 to 6 weeks of age, momma often is hazing chicks to force them to integrate on their own (depending on the hen). So if you want protection from mommas, that will have to happen within that 2 to 4 week window. I find younger than 2 weeks is when I get the most stupid chick losses, so that can allow for growth and still have mom protection.

For my expensive hatches (ie breeder eggs that I paid good money for coveted breeds to add to my flock), I hatch under bantams in a designated broody hutch that is totally wire/netting/tarp enclosed but has flock viewing. I do not attempt to integrate those birds until they are nearly fully grown, usually at 10-12 weeks of age, to avoid loss from predators, accident or over hazing. Usually I simply place those nearly full grown birds in the coop at night and let nature take its course. My roo settles most disputes and they integrate within a few days to a week.

So bottomline is, it depends upon your goals and your tolerance for possible loss, as well as flock temperament.

LofMc

goodpost.gif
 
For the second broody, she knows what she is doing. Trust nature. As for the first, my brahma is also a collector. She pulls in eggs that are laid elsewhere in the coop. So on Day 2 I picked her up and marked all of the eggs. This way when I catch her off the nest, I know that she either collected a new egg or someone laid in the nest (since it is always the favorite nest) and I collect the unmarked eggs.

What do you use to make the eggs?
 

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