Build a 3'x3' Chicken Coop for $50

[thecoopbuilder]

I started adding a new chicken coop product for my customers that is more affordable for anyone. I thought I might show it to everyone to help them get started on making an affordable coop for about 4-5 chickens.
What I purchased:
1 sheet of smart siding: $22
4 2x4x8 studs ripped in half: $8
Chicken Wire: $10
4x8 OSB: $7.50
Floor Mat Stripping for Ridge Cap: $2
I hope this helps you guys out. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[1dude]

Looks pretty nice! Not sure your location. I'm in Florida and I would suggest some vents and maybe smaller wire to stop snakes.
If the chickens are grown then wire size probably not an issue. Just my 2 cents for what they're worth.

 

[thecoopbuilder]

I never knew much about the snake issue, but it makes sense with the eggs. Is there a recommended wire size needed to prevent snakes from getting in.

 

[coolcanoechic]

I looked at your coops in your album and they are very very nice! My best suggestion would be to switch to hardware cloth on your coops. Chicken wire only keeps chickens in. It does not keep predators out. Anyone purchasing your coops would end up changing out the chicken wire to hardware cloth, for the chicken's safety.
Hope this helps.

 

[jpcode]

Where do they roost?

 

[leadwolf1]

A 3 X 3 coop is only big enough for 2 LF chickens if you follow the 4 sf per chicken rule. Maybe 3 - 4 bantams.

Closeable windows/vents are much needed also.

 

[MadHens]

I agree that that size is better for only 2 standard size chickens, or 3 or 4 bantams. I would also add some kind of window too.

 

[Going Quackers]

I looked at your coops in your album and they are very very nice! My best suggestion would be to switch to hardware cloth on your coops. Chicken wire only keeps chickens in. It does not keep predators out. Anyone purchasing your coops would end up changing out the chicken wire to hardware cloth, for the chicken's safety.
Hope this helps.

I agree. While it does cost a bit more.. the costs with not using it are worse. It does look nice though!

 

[Life is Good!]

Because you're intending to sell these little coops, my observations are below. Overall, it's a cute coop for someone just starting out. But I can see some areas of improvement to make it more user friendly and have a longer life with the owner(s).....

My first observation with this coop - OSB? Really? That stuff swells like mad if it gets wet. So if someone places their water container up top and it gets spilled over, there goes the coop! Spend a couple extra dollars and use exterior grade plywood instead. OSB might work for the walls, but not the floor. (Urine and poo is wet also)

For that size coop, I'd only put in 2 hens, maybe 3 if I used this as a tractor and pulled it to new grass every couple days. With that few hens, you'd only need one nesting area - 3 is overkill and a waste of space.

Re-arrange your floor plan to have the nesting area in the opposite corner as the pop door in the floor (hens like the quietest corner), then you could put a roost-bar in the space of the two nesting boxes you've eliminated. Even if the bar is only 3-4" off the 'floor', the hens will be much happier with a spot to roost. Then, you can have the waterer and feeder up top by the nesting area. Otherwise, how are you planning to have food/water changed daily? And where is it going to go?

I agree - switch to hardware cloth for entire 'run'. Chicken wire is an invitation to have dead hens.

Perhaps look into adding a plexiglass framed-out window in one of the ends of the coop closest to the roost. Our hens like to sit on the roostbar and look out during snowy weather. And then you'll know what to expect before opening the door of the egg-collecting unit.

If you put hardware cloth on the window and make the plexi removable, that would also be beneficial - to let the nice air in and the stale air out, but keeping hens safe during those months that one can do that. Right now, all our coop windows are wide open to allow as much air exchange as possible - it's too hot in an enclosed space otherwise! Dead hens=no fun.

Is the ramp able to be closed at night or you presuming to have it open 24/7? Hinges on the ramp and a cord/pulley system to allow the ramp up and down would definately make it more secure. Would also allow this unit to be sold as a 'tractor' as you could lift the ramp and pull it to new grassy area for the hens.

Lastly, is there a way to get into the run area? If not, that might be an issue if you've got a sick or injured hen, a bully situation or other calamity. Yes, it's a pain to frame-out a little 'door' and it's more of a pain to go in and out of it - but I've learned the hard way to build it in first, as you'll need it!

 

[coolcanoechic]

Because you're intending to sell these little coops, my observations are below. Overall, it's a cute coop for someone just starting out. But I can see some areas of improvement to make it more user friendly and have a longer life with the owner(s).....

My first observation with this coop - OSB? Really? That stuff swells like mad if it gets wet. So if someone places their water container up top and it gets spilled over, there goes the coop! Spend a couple extra dollars and use exterior grade plywood instead. OSB might work for the walls, but not the floor. (Urine and poo is wet also)

For that size coop, I'd only put in 2 hens, maybe 3 if I used this as a tractor and pulled it to new grass every couple days. With that few hens, you'd only need one nesting area - 3 is overkill and a waste of space.

Re-arrange your floor plan to have the nesting area in the opposite corner as the pop door in the floor (hens like the quietest corner), then you could put a roost-bar in the space of the two nesting boxes you've eliminated. Even if the bar is only 3-4" off the 'floor', the hens will be much happier with a spot to roost. Then, you can have the waterer and feeder up top by the nesting area. Otherwise, how are you planning to have food/water changed daily? And where is it going to go?

I agree - switch to hardware cloth for entire 'run'. Chicken wire is an invitation to have dead hens.

Perhaps look into adding a plexiglass framed-out window in one of the ends of the coop closest to the roost. Our hens like to sit on the roostbar and look out during snowy weather. And then you'll know what to expect before opening the door of the egg-collecting unit.

If you put hardware cloth on the window and make the plexi removable, that would also be beneficial - to let the nice air in and the stale air out, but keeping hens safe during those months that one can do that. Right now, all our coop windows are wide open to allow as much air exchange as possible - it's too hot in an enclosed space otherwise! Dead hens=no fun.

Is the ramp able to be closed at night or you presuming to have it open 24/7? Hinges on the ramp and a cord/pulley system to allow the ramp up and down would definately make it more secure. Would also allow this unit to be sold as a 'tractor' as you could lift the ramp and pull it to new grassy area for the hens.

Lastly, is there a way to get into the run area? If not, that might be an issue if you've got a sick or injured hen, a bully situation or other calamity. Yes, it's a pain to frame-out a little 'door' and it's more of a pain to go in and out of it - but I've learned the hard way to build it in first, as you'll need it!