Building a chicken coop with just one sheet of plywood

[Aazard]

ONE OSB / Plywood sheet, interior space is 4x2ft (8sq ft) Suitable for 2 layers and a rooster (3 total, 2x nesting boxes)

1. I made mine from 4x8ft OSB Sheet, in 5/8" (which reduced total coop cost to $40 Canadian)
2. DONT use Particle Board = it will fall apart when wet
3. DONT MDF/HDF its toxic with formaldehyde off-gassing

Coop Review

1. Nesting box is "basic/minimal"
2. Perches are NOT supplied by plan (unless a 1" strip is cut from ramps side & used to make them, thats what I did)
3. Expects a "safe" run area (no large predator's able to rip up the coop door)
4. Its not winterized but winterizing it to R25 would only take a half more OSB sheet and one 4x8ft panel of rigid R12.5 (+ a heap lamp or pv unit)

Not my design, but here is a link https://piwakawakavalley.co.nz/building-a-chicken-coop/

NOTE: Small typo, the designer uses metric and confuses 1200mm is equal to 3ft >> The correction is 1200, is equal to 4ft

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Re-Post of Article/Plan:

For the coop you will need​

1 sheet of 18mm ply​

You can use treated or natural ply wood. If it is untreated then I recommend that you at least paint the outside to help make it last longer.

50x25mm/2×1 inch timber​

I used this to make the perches, you could use whatever you have around – even natural branches work.

Roofing iron​

I used pieces of roofing iron that fitted exactly on the top of our house as they were designed to also go in a roofed run, if they are going to be the only roof be sure to cut it big enough to overlap the walls a little to let the rain run off.

2×4 or legs​

We hung our coops in an existing structure, but you can add legs a high as you like – from a few inches to quite tall. If you want it tall be sure to add some angle bracing, or concrete the posts in to the ground so it doesn’t fall over.

Other bits​

4 hinges, 35mm screws, roofing screws, 2 latches, saw, measuring tap, screwdriver/drill, pencil, tape measure, straight edge to draw lines along and a spare pair of hands for cutting the big sheet.

INSIDE​

Ply Cutting Sheet​

Get the PDF here.

On the edges of the back and sides you will need to cut the thickness of your timber off the edges so that the sides fit inside the front and back, and the back doors have some room to open and shut.

To assemble the chicken house simply use self tapping screws to attach the sides and front to the bottom and to each other.

Cut the nesting box edging from the thin leftover 4inch/100mm strip and screw through the side and front.

Attach feet to the bottom and use hinges and the latches to attach the doors.

 

[DobieLover]

The Simple, Skillion Roofed, Barn-Doored, Two Hen Coop

ONE OSB / Plywood sheet Coop, interior space is 4x2ft (8sq ft) Suitable for 2 layers & a rooster (3 chickens, 2x nesting boxes)

You might get 4x bantams/Rhode Island Red sized layers, putting 2x more nesting boxes and shifting perches to, upper, center area "length of coop" (4x chickens, & a "visiting" rooster), if run is large enough

Video of coop/building it:

1. I made mine from 4x8ft OSB Sheet, in 5/8" (which reduced total coop cost to $40 Canadian)
2. DONT use Particle Board = it will fall apart when wet
3. DONT use MDF/HDF its toxic with formaldehyde off-gassing

Coop Review

1. NO Roof in plan (but a metal roof is cheaper than more wood + proofing it)
2. Nesting box is "basic/minimal"
3. Perches are NOT supplied by plan (see next point)
4. Unless 1" x 48" is cut from ramps side & used, thats what I did
5. Expects a "safe" run area (no large predator's able to rip up the coop door)
6. Its not winterized but winterizing it to R25 would only take a half more OSB sheet and one 4x8ft panel of rigid R12.5 (+ a heap lamp or pv unit)

Not my design, but here is a link https://piwakawakavalley.co.nz/building-a-chicken-coop/

NOTE: Small typo, the designer uses metric and confuses 1200mm is equal to 3ft >> The correction is 1200, is equal to 4ft

-------

Re-Post of Article/Plan:

For the coop you will need​

1 sheet of 18mm ply​

You can use treated or natural ply wood. If it is untreated then I recommend that you at least paint the outside to help make it last longer.

50x25mm/2×1 inch timber​

I used this to make the perches, you could use whatever you have around – even natural branches work.

Roofing iron​

I used pieces of roofing iron that fitted exactly on the top of our house as they were designed to also go in a roofed run, if they are going to be the only roof be sure to cut it big enough to overlap the walls a little to let the rain run off.

2×4 or legs​

We hung our coops in an existing structure, but you can add legs a high as you like – from a few inches to quite tall. If you want it tall be sure to add some angle bracing, or concrete the posts in to the ground so it doesn’t fall over.

Other bits​

4 hinges, 35mm screws, roofing screws, 2 latches, saw, measuring tap, screwdriver/drill, pencil, tape measure, straight edge to draw lines along and a spare pair of hands for cutting the big sheet.

INSIDE​

Ply Cutting Sheet​

Get the PDF here.

On the edges of the back and sides you will need to cut the thickness of your timber off the edges so that the sides fit inside the front and back, and the back doors have some room to open and shut.

To assemble the chicken house simply use self tapping screws to attach the sides and front to the bottom and to each other.

Cut the nesting box edging from the thin leftover 4inch/100mm strip and screw through the side and front.

Attach feet to the bottom and use hinges and the latches to attach the doors.

This is a scabbed together box that will not last long as it is not weather proof.
It has inadequate ventilation that is not predator proof.
The roof has been attached perpendicular to the flow of water.
No windows for natural light that helps chickens navigate them in dim light.
It will be a nightmare to clean.
A coop that size will only ever need 1 nest box so why waste the floor space with 2?

 

[saysfaa]

I rarely watch videos but this time I don't regret it. The plan makes much more sense in context.

This box goes under a higher shed roof that has metal roofing oriented with the flow of water. The perpendicular roof is for bracing more than anything else. And because the builder wanted to darken the box. Fyi for anyone using corrugated panels for keeping the weather out - it is best to put the fasteners in the hills rather than the valleys.

It is in NZ, so predators are much, much less of a concern than in many other parts of the world.

It functions as part of a coop - more like a nest box with a roost section than a coop as I think most people think of it. It is open to a small run (bigger than most walk in coops built for three or four chickens). And they are let out into a much, much bigger space - I think daily but don't remember if she actually said that.

Certainly not enough ventilation - just the pop door and cracks.
Mine don't have a problem with laying in well lit nest boxes. Chickens like some feeling of shelter but token sides or top are enough. Better to let a lot more air in even if it lets light in too.

I think the roost is build the way it is as much for bracing as for being a roost. Only two of the three bars have remotely enough clearance horizontally. It is very low (to the floor of the box) but I don't know how much of a problem that really it. Perhaps not much if it is cleaned often enough - diet might matter, some diets cause flatter poop than others.

It is close to a good plan for its purpose, context, and location.

 

[CapricornFarm]

How many chickens could live in this when they need 4 square feet per bird in the coop?

 

[nuthatched]

Big enough for 1 chicken, maybe.
my chickens are not pets, they are livestock but as my invested in livestock, they get proper care. Proper space, proper feed and proper ventilation.

 

[casportpony]

Thread locked for staff review.