Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
We're in Oregon. My husband wants the chicks NOW....I don't know of any prefab coops that meet the generally accepted guidelines for chicken keeping in a non-commercial environment.
Each adult hen needs:
4 square feet in the coop,
10 square feet in the run,
1 linear foot of roost,
And 1 square foot of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation -- the pop door that's closed at night and any windows that are closed in the winter don't count.
You need 1 nestbox for every 4-5 hens.
The roost needs to be above the nest boxes, the ventilation is best placed above the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
Some rules of thumb:
If it looks like a dollhouse it's only suited for toy chickens (one prefab actually used toy chickens in the advertising photos).
If the measurements are given in inches instead of feet it's too small.
If there are more nestboxes than the number of chickens the coop can house the designer knows nothing about chickens and there are probably other problems too.
Where, in general, are you located? Climate matters when choosing a coop design.
How many chickens do you want to have?
Are you in an urban/suburban area where it will be necessary to adhere to certain aesthetic standards?
My Little Monitor Coop illustrates the minimum space requirements for 4 hens in a design that is well-suited to a warm climate with significant rainfall.
This thread shows a coop designed for the brutal heat of Texas.
That's why I want our neighbor's coop.If you are going to BUY something get a shed. You can pay someone to customize it. A bought coop is useless. They fall apart and are too small.
My husband and I would just hate to end our marriage over the building of a chicken coop LOLFor me building a coop is best in winter. Lumber prices are mostly half the $$ cheaper than summer sales.
Our location is west of Portland, OR. in the Beaverton-Forest Grove area.Carolina makes some pretty coops. If I lived in an HOA-controlled subdivision, had an abundance of money, and no time, I might drop most of $4,000 for a hen house suitable for 6 birds, then bitch and moan that the windows essentially ensure a draft on perching birds. ...and yet, they are some of the best, seemingly, in the business. Its the raised coop design, leaves little room for ventilation on the sides, where they place those windows we people-types find so attractive.
The side of the road "Amish"/Quaker-inspired coops tend to share some of the same concerns, though somewhat less expensive, as they lack the attached run. If you go that route, look for one you can walk into, not only so you can inspect the build quality, but because the walk in allows a lower nesting box, which lowers the perches, while allowing a window (relatively) higher up on the wall. Pay close attention to the long hinge on the nesting box, too - that's a common point of failure (moisture entry).
View attachment 2583737
Don't know your budget, or your aesthetic requirements. Neither do we know where you are in the nation (or the world) so we can guess at your climate needs. Are you space limited (like a suburban back yard)? Do you plan to chicken tractor on a big pasture? How many birds are you planning on?
All of those questions are important to recommending more than simply a "brand".
and full disclosure, I'm part of the "build your own" crowd. Twice. But whether bought or built, the design concerns tend to be the same. Like the nesting box, a side, rather than top, open design is generally superior for weatherproofing, but needs to be located higher up than it is in the picture above for your comfort. Hen houses are a system, it needs to work together to work best, with seemingly small adjustments often affecting other design considerations.
Coops are built, not boughtWould love recommendations of coops folks have bought and were happy with them. Thank you!