California - Northern

OK Brinsea owners or people in the know! This is my 4th hatch in the Octagon 20 w/humidity pump and there is one common thing I find and that the row closest to the wall hatches first no matter what breed. One time I had EE's, the next time Olive Eggers, then Marans and this time Polish. 3 have hatched, another is almost out and the other two have pipped. There is not another pip in the other 18 and this is day 22! I candled them the day of lockdown and everyone was good except one that looked like an early quitter.

My hatches are also always late. These guys were due yesterday and one chick pipped yesterday morning and was out last night. Woke up to two, then another hatched. Now this is actually pretty quick for my hatches because I took some advice from a couple of you here and lowered my humidity to under 40% (39%...I'm such a risk taker
lau.gif
) and raised my temp from 99.6° to 100.0° (Ron said 100.3° but I just did a widdle bit
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) during the first 18 days. I believe that has helped me have so many hatch closer to their due date. Oh, and the humidity at lockdown was 65%. But last night when I thought the pips looked dry I bumped it up to 70%. Do you think I should bump the temp up to the recommended 100.3°

BTW, I added the Oxine to the humidity pump and the odor is gone! Dang that stuff is good!

OK, back to my question....The incubator is in the corner of my living room with plenty of air flow around and is about 10" from the wall. Would that be the reason that row hatches first? Shouldn't the Brinsea be so insulated that being towards a wall not make a difference?
 
I took some pictures of my Blue Australorps today. Two of them are Blue, one Cockerel and one pullet. Chet Hupp said that out of 4 pens and 39 hatched chicks he had one splash pullet and one blue pullet. With mine, I have a Blue pullet and a blue cockerel.... They are beautiful! Hope mine are that pretty. They are monsters at 8 weeks old!
 
Yes, very pretty girls. Thank you for the cracked corn idea. I bought a crumble and they are not eating it. Will mix the two.

for my flock, cracked corn is, well, crack -- they go absolutely wild for it. i mostly save it as a treat to give them when everyone's back in their coop for the evening -- but ethel & dixie got a little extra for their birthday!
 
I have to go catch 8 young cockerels. I have someone taking them all. yeah. I actually dont think they are going to eat them. They let them free range as bug control in there pasture in a mobile coop. may not last too long but hey better than the alternative lol
That's great! I took 10 roosters to the Roseville auction this morning. Boy did that put a dent in my chick numbers!
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All of the EE roosters and one Wyandotte rooster.

I still have 4 bantam BLRW roosters, one bantam buff Brahma rooster and one gorgeous EE rooster (I am keeping him because he is pale blue and getting gold lacing!) If anyone is looking for some show potential bantam roosters. I will also have some extra blue wheaten and splash wheaten Ameraucana roosters in a few months. Some of the Ameraucana roosters will be from the Cree line which is really hard to find.
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That's great! I took 10 roosters to the Roseville auction this morning. Boy did that put a dent in my chick numbers!
big_smile.png
All of the EE roosters and one Wyandotte rooster.

I still have 4 bantam BLRW roosters, one bantam buff Brahma rooster and one gorgeous EE rooster (I am keeping him because he is pale blue and getting gold lacing!) If anyone is looking for some show potential bantam roosters. I will also have some extra blue wheaten and splash wheaten Ameraucana roosters in a few months. Some of the Ameraucana roosters will be from the Cree line which is really hard to find.
wink.png
nice !
 
So my coop should be done enough to the point where it will be safe for the chicks(nest boxes, Windows, etc aren't done but the open spots for them have hardware cloth to keep predators from getting in.)
The run isn't done though...I want to at least start putting them in the coop at night so they stop waking me up every morning in the brooder. Can they be allowed to have free run of the yard when I'm out there with them or do I have to worry about them getting away or anything? Or do most people keep chicks in just the coop for the first few weeks or so to teach them where "home" is?
 
OK Brinsea owners or people in the know! This is my 4th hatch in the Octagon 20 w/humidity pump and there is one common thing I find and that the row closest to the wall hatches first no matter what breed. One time I had EE's, the next time Olive Eggers, then Marans and this time Polish. 3 have hatched, another is almost out and the other two have pipped. There is not another pip in the other 18 and this is day 22! I candled them the day of lockdown and everyone was good except one that looked like an early quitter.

My hatches are also always late. These guys were due yesterday and one chick pipped yesterday morning and was out last night. Woke up to two, then another hatched. Now this is actually pretty quick for my hatches because I took some advice from a couple of you here and lowered my humidity to under 40% (39%...I'm such a risk taker
lau.gif
) and raised my temp from 99.6° to 100.0° (Ron said 100.3° but I just did a widdle bit
hmm.png
) during the first 18 days. I believe that has helped me have so many hatch closer to their due date. Oh, and the humidity at lockdown was 65%. But last night when I thought the pips looked dry I bumped it up to 70%. Do you think I should bump the temp up to the recommended 100.3°

BTW, I added the Oxine to the humidity pump and the odor is gone! Dang that stuff is good!

OK, back to my question....The incubator is in the corner of my living room with plenty of air flow around and is about 10" from the wall. Would that be the reason that row hatches first? Shouldn't the Brinsea be so insulated that being towards a wall not make a difference?
You should not change the temps on the Octagon 20. In fact everything I have read says if anything the temps should be a little lower for hatching, but this is not necessary with the Octagon. I keep the temps at the recommended 99.6 and the humidity at 40% until day 19, then up it to 65%. I get great hatches. I have not noticed one row hatching before another, so I am no help there. I have found that it is always best to go by the manufacturer's recommendations.
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Good luck!
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You should not change the temps on the Octagon 20. In fact everything I have read says if anything the temps should be a little lower for hatching, but this is not necessary with the Octagon. I keep the temps at the recommended 99.6 and the humidity at 40% until day 19, then up it to 65%. I get great hatches. I have not noticed one row hatching before another, so I am no help there. I have found that it is always best to go by the manufacturer's recommendations.
wink.png


Good luck!
smile.png

verify the temperature inside the brinsea with a Brinsea Spot check. I set my Octagon 40 to 100.3 to get the temperature inside the brinsea to 99.6.

Remember to keep the vent all the way open too. Do not trust the digital read out on top.
 

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