California - Northern

I have no evidence of Cocci. I wonder if the benefits outweigh the hazards of medicating when there is no need?  I'd hate to upset the balance of a healthy intestinal flora system if there was no need!  I'm sure with the testing they ran they'd have noticed Cocci.   I'm just learning here so bear with me if I'm way off target.  

I have almost 60 (*apparently* but looks are deceiving!) healthy chickens none of which are over 2 yrs old.  I'm trying to control the urge to just run out and throw medicines at them!  None of them looks skinny, sickly, wheezy, snotty, or even have bugs since I just finished the treatment for bugs.  All clean, bug-free skin :D   I know because I checked last night.  I have a few rough looking from coming out of a molt and some growing back feathers from a rough rooster but other than those few running around sporting blue kote, we keep a beautiful flock!  This loss is most bizarre.

I've culled really hard for the breeding programs so losing a pullet is rough.  I only had 3 EOB pullets!

Corid is just a b vitamin inhibitor not an antibiotic. And now you have me curious qill it kill off other gut flora?

I never thought of that!
 
I have no evidence of Cocci. I wonder if the benefits outweigh the hazards of medicating when there is no need? I'd hate to upset the balance of a healthy intestinal flora system if there was no need! I'm sure with the testing they ran they'd have noticed Cocci. I'm just learning here so bear with me if I'm way off target.

I have almost 60 (*apparently* but looks are deceiving!) healthy chickens none of which are over 2 yrs old. I'm trying to control the urge to just run out and throw medicines at them! None of them looks skinny, sickly, wheezy, snotty, or even have bugs since I just finished the treatment for bugs. All clean, bug-free skin
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I know because I checked last night. I have a few rough looking from coming out of a molt and some growing back feathers from a rough rooster but other than those few running around sporting blue kote, we keep a beautiful flock! This loss is most bizarre.

I've culled really hard for the breeding programs so losing a pullet is rough. I only had 3 EOB pullets!
The report would have said Mareks cancer. I have had one or two of those. If this one has cancer, ask them if it could be from the new virus.

They will check for cocci and always check for salmonella and E-coli.
 
Corid is just a b vitamin inhibitor not an antibiotic. And now you have me curious qill it kill off other gut flora?

I never thought of that!
See, I didn't know that Corrid was a b Vit inhibitor. I thought wrong. I'm learning so much!
 
Calling all cabinet incubator owners... Which one do you have and how do you like it? I am getting a cabinet to incubate in and using my Genesis huvabator for hatching
 
Calling all cabinet incubator owners... Which one do you have and how do you like it? I am getting a cabinet to incubate in and using my Genesis huvabator for hatching
I have a GQF 1550 cabinet hatcher that I use to incubate. It is great at holding temp and humidity constant with a quick recovery time after opening the door. But I don't recommend it for incubating because it doesn't have turners. All egg turning is done by hand. I am watching craigslist for a 1502 Sportsman incubator or the 1500 Professional cabinet incubator. If I had an extra $750 sitting around, I would go ahead and order a new one. I've enlisted DH to design a turner system for my 1550. Maybe it will happen this next weekend!
 
Lost my voice. I an going to go experiment on chicken reactions to it. Maybe my egg laying lecture will be more understandable in these squeaky tones?
 
As much as we wanted them, we just couldn't afford to buy chocolate egg layers straight run from the person I'm buying my chickies from, but we might be able to get just one sexed one one from a local feed store. If I were to buy chicks from two locations(I'm getting them from a member on this forum, and maybe just one from the local feed store) would they need to be brooded separately or could I put them in the same brooder?
 
As much as we wanted them, we just couldn't afford to buy chocolate egg layers straight run from the person I'm buying my chickies from, but we might be able to get just one sexed one one from a local feed store. If I were to buy chicks from two locations(I'm getting them from a member on this forum, and maybe just one from the local feed store) would they need to be brooded separately or could I put them in the same brooder?

How much difference in age? If they are close ( a few days to a week or so) they should be fine together. You might want to figure out a way to mark them so you know which you got from where though Colored zip ties work great!
 
I have a GQF 1550 cabinet hatcher that I use to incubate.  It is great at holding temp and humidity constant with a quick recovery time after opening the door.  But I don't recommend it for incubating because it doesn't have turners.  All egg turning is done by hand.  I am watching craigslist for a 1502 Sportsman incubator or the 1500 Professional cabinet incubator.  If I had an extra $750 sitting around, I would go ahead and order a new one.  I've enlisted DH to design a turner system for my 1550.  Maybe it will happen this next weekend!  


If its just for your eggs not a huge difference. For shipped eggs I have seen different issues. You want a machine that has least vibration as possible.
The only one with auto humidity is the brinsea but people seem to have bad results with their system holding humidity. (4 or 5 upset people over that) wood seems to hold humidity better then metal and plastic. And muffles vibration more.
Brinsea small incubators are clearly the things that get the best results. Then It seems like wooden cabinets with fine details ( if you have one with a hatching tray so you can put shipped eggs on it without turning them that seems to help)
Then the metal with fine detail then the sportsman.

I have heard the best results from dickys about 10 people who have obnoxious results. Of course im partial to these old redwoods but so big!!
As much as we wanted them, we just couldn't afford to buy chocolate egg layers straight run from the person I'm buying my chickies from, but we might be able to get just one sexed one one from a local feed store. If I were to buy chicks from two locations(I'm getting them from a member on this forum, and maybe just one from the local feed store) would they need to be brooded separately or could I put them in the same brooder?

They should be ok as long as the age is close. But chocolate eggs take a bit of finicking to breed a b d the feedstore chickens will mostly lay light to not brown at all. If the eggs are important might wait until you get some cash.
 

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