California - Northern

Thank you! That is great to know. Seems I find more and more things I need to just have "on hand" just in case lol

Ymmv on this one because if it comes back it does do damage. But for a big investment or emotional tie id do it and hope.

This is why mario won't let me have a big dog. When I adopted the cat with no eyelids he becane allergic to vet bills. At least lhasa was his favorite animal!
 
Audio if building stuff really is problomatic have you thought about just using plastic poultry wire and screws for the top of your peach box? It is not preditor proof only if you brood in garage or shed etc. But easy and you roll it up when done.
I haven't gotten the peach bins yet. I can probably handle making framed lids for them with real hardware cloth when I do get them...it's just building the whole thing that would be tough for me. I really need predator proof because it gets too hot in the garage to keep anything in there in the summer. I want something that would be safe out on the back deck in the shade. We have had skunks an racoons mostly, but there have been mountain lions, foxes and possum too. We lost about $1000 worth of koi this past winter in 1 night from racoons.
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For mites, treat once a month with the Frontline spray. Get a permectrin concentrate and make up a spray and spray the coops every two weeks.

Do this until June or July and then start back up with the coop treatments only in the Fall--like October.

Hopefully we will get back to a cool wet winter and the lice and mites will be not as bad next year. We had the warmest winter on record this winter. Not good for keeping lice and mites down.

Treat for worms two or three times a year using one of the safe wormers that Kathy has in her siggy.

Does tractor supply sell the concentrate spray? I need to spray my coops, thank you.
 
Does tractor supply sell the concentrate spray? I need to spray my coops, thank you.
Yes, I bought a bottle there and have been spaying the coops with it.

Try to make sure that bees are not active when you spray though and keep the chickens out so that they do not breath it. It is very save for skin contact though.
 
Yes, I bought a bottle there and have been spaying the coops with it.

Try to make sure that bees are not active when you spray though and keep the chickens out so that they do not breath it. It is very save for skin contact though.
Do you just spray the vent area and under the wings? And which spray? For dogs or cats?
 
Did anyone keep hatching records on the hatches last year (or this year) have actual % of hatch rates for the year?

All these I have 99% hatch rates all shipped eggs will be over 50% people are annoying me and id like to clear my pallet with some good data.

I get overly upset when they say that on pages with newbies who either beat themselves up over low hatches or start badmouthing the poor breeders shipping to them.
I keep detailed records on everything the past couple years. Last year's data:

167 eggs set in 2013 = 52 chicks = 31% hatch rate
26 total not fertile- some in early Spring resolved then again when hot weather set in.
47 early quitters. 42 late quitters.

This year's data is still being collected. I've had more fertility issues than last year. As of 4/7/14:
Dorkings: 11 live chicks out of 47 eggs. 23% hatch rate.
Delawares: 36 live chicks out of 52 eggs. 69% hatch rate.

Almost all the Dorking breeders (even the pros) nationwide are having the same hatching problems.
 
Well...I just killed one of the quail. I had read just enough about them to have in my head that incubation was 16-18 days and these were set on 4/12. That makes them 20 days today. I candled several times and saw no movement and figure they were all goners. I pulled one out and prepared for an eggtopsy. Gently broke it opened on the air cell end and saw no sign of life until I tore open the membrane. Then,,,lots of blood....and a moving embryo.....
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I stopped immediately and put the egg back in the incubator. Then.....I looked up incubation for Bob Whites and it is 23-24 days! I kept checking to poor thing for a couple of hours and saw no movement. I was sure it was dead. I took it back out and opened it up the est of the way to see how far along it was. I got it completely out of the shell....and saw a fully developed chick that had not absorbed any of the yolk....and I saw it gasping for air and moving it's legs slightly. The poor thing was still alive!!!!! I feel terrible!!!
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Do you just spray the vent area and under the wings? And which spray? For dogs or cats?
You can use Frontline spray--plain with just fipronil. It is used once a month. Near the vent and under Each wing for the big old orps. Little birds get less spray.

Seven dust in a garbage bag is good and you can do the same thing with DE. If they have it bad, I might use the seven in the bag--have someone help you and wear a mask!

put the dust(sevin or DE) into the bag and put the chicken in up to the head. Shake to distribute the dust.

Repeat in two weeks

The Dust is better for feather lice. Mites really need the frpronil. Mites will kill chickens as well as sap their egg laying ability.

For long term control you need to treat the coops too with either Permectrin or liquid seven. The liquid is good because you can spray the bottom of the roosts with it. Wear masks and gloves.
 
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Well...I just killed one of the quail. I had read just enough about them to have in my head that incubation was 16-18 days and these were set on 4/12. That makes them 20 days today. I candled several times and saw no movement and figure they were all goners. I pulled one out and prepared for an eggtopsy. Gently broke it opened on the air cell end and saw no sign of life until I tore open the membrane. Then,,,lots of blood....and a moving embryo.....
barnie.gif
I stopped immediately and put the egg back in the incubator. Then.....I looked up incubation for Bob Whites and it is 23-24 days! I kept checking to poor thing for a couple of hours and saw no movement. I was sure it was dead. I took it back out and opened it up the est of the way to see how far along it was. I got it completely out of the shell....and saw a fully developed chick that had not absorbed any of the yolk....and I saw it gasping for air and moving it's legs slightly. The poor thing was still alive!!!!! I feel terrible!!!
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Do not beat yourself up about it!

Stuff like that happens to all of us.
 
@capayvalleychick I love the Dorkings! The Dels are great too, but the roo decided I am the enemy after I broke up a fight between him and the Dork cockerel, so he's in solitary (his girls only go in with him to lay...thank goodness he doesn't get over the fence) until I find him a home or freezer camp. One Dorking is very broody...so tempting to make more of them!
I'm sorry that I haven't answered your email! I still have over 400 emails to read or answer, since my internet was down. The males that you have really should be processed. They were not even close to breeding quality. The one Karen got was the exception. He was my #4 pick. I only let him go because I'm keeping 4 Dork males and didn't want to have so many males ... and because Karen wanted one.

Sorry about the Del being nasty. None here have been that way, except for once when I took a hen away from him and she squawked.

I'm glad that you are happy with their egg laying. I've been happy with that, also. Last year, I started culling the poor layers, so that helps too.

I can't believe you and Barbara have broodies from me! I want a broody and mine aren't going for it.

I am going to make it that direction one of these days to get my crate.
 

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