Can Someone "Approve" My Brooder Plans?

Oh you are probably referring to the wire holder that comes with it. There is a different holder setup for wire cages and the whole thing just slips right in but the clamp doesn’t provide enough pressure to hold the container very well.

There is another clamping system for placing it on a wood post. Once they are out in the run, I’ll put the containers out there.

Very easy to fill with the top flap!
I was.....please post pics of you are using.
 
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It’s on the right about mid-screen. It’s a black holder that clamps/screws to the kennel- one piece of the holder on each side (inside and out). The water container just slips into the holder, but you can see that I have a small clamp holding it in.
 
Okay first hi! And welcome to byc!

Okay so for bedding make sure you use the larger shaving flakes(smaller ones can be eaten and make the chicks sick) and ABSOLUTELY NO CEDAR SHAVINGS.
I usually start newly hatched chicks or just shipped chicks on bedding with a layer or two of paper towels on top of the bedding. Once they're all up and walking we'll remove the paper towels and they should be fine on the shavings. (Don't forget to dip their beaks in the water or show them how to use the nipple drinker and make sure you see them eat. Careful of the nares or nostrils.) This method usually lasts a day or two maybe three tops in a less crowded brooder. Be careful. Very quickly they will start shredding those paper towels and can get caught in them or eat little pieces. Puppy training pads can also be awesome to use even putting them under a layer of shavings about an inch deep when the bedding needs changing just pick up the corners and remove most or all of the soiled bedding. This also soaks up moisture. However chicks may quickly begin shredding puppy pads without shavings on top of them and some will even dig down and destroy them. Again you don't want them eating them especially if they have a gelling substance in them. If the chicks begin damaging the pads remove the pads immediately.

Now don't forget chick grit I usually begin sprinkling some on their feed when they're about 1-2 weeks and periodically after that. This will help them break down anything they eat that they shouldn't and if they are ever going to be on grass or fed anything other than complete crumble or mash feed they need to have grit in their diet to help them break their food down. As adults you will want to have a dish available with grit all the time. Adult grit is of course quite a bit larger than chick grit. Oyster shell is different and is not a grit substitute.

Everyone has already told you about it but your box is going to be pretty small for those chicks pretty fast. Depending on their breeds some chicks are more prone to picking on brooder mates. Being crowded and bored make this much much more likely.

We use stock tanks we have that are not suitable for holding water. Also large plastic totes can be great. Nothing wrong with cardboard boxes and we do use those sometimes as well. Bigger is best and absolutely you can combine boxes with tape; just keep an eye on the tape as heat or moisture can cause the tape to loosen and it can get stuck to birds.

Which brings me to my next couple points. Keep an eye on the bedding whether you completely clean it or just add shavings also depending on the waterer you choose. Be careful to keep an eye on the bedding in the bottom and the bottom of the box. The last thing you want is the bottom of the box to collapse as you carry it from the house or the porch after the chicks are moved out. This is kept from happening with a tote or stock tank but they can get very heavy. Chicks and chickens produce a huge amount of moisture with their breath and poops. They also create an amount of dust that could make anyone insane, just a fair warning.

Whoops I got sidetracked and didn't finish this yet. Let's see if I can remember all of my thoughts.

Okay so brooder plates are great but remember there are alternatives also don't mix tiny bantam chicks with large fowl if the chicks can't reach the brooder plate they can't warm up.

We use regular waterers for chicks the quart ones. As brooder space is usually at a premium a small waterer is best. Especially as the chicks need fresh water daily anyway. Yes chicks can kick shavings into and poop in the waterer. Shavings can be greatly reduced in the waterers and feeder by placing them on a board or plate etc, which also keeps them level. Cookie sheets pie pans etc all work well for this purpose. A paper plate can catch feed that has been scratched out so it's not wasted.

We also use vertical nipples for chicks by applying Teflon or plumbers tape to the threads before screwing it into the container to be used as the waterer. Sometimes they can drip when the chicks peck them but generally they are okay. If you're worried placing a small dish or something beneath the waterer can collect any that falls. Note: I never recommend using a nipple waterer solo until several chicks have mastered it. Once a couple do they will show the others how to use it.

You can also get a quail water base that screws onto the Mason jars they're more narrow than a chick waterer and good for very small chicks. Note: if the chicks are unsteady on their feet when placed in the brooder make sure there are marbles/flattened glass fish pebbles in the waterer as very young/unsteady chicks are capable of falling in and drowning.

Let's see I hope I didn't forget anything.
 
I looked up the BV heating pad and it is an on/off switch, so you won't be able to lower the temperature when needed. Even with the mama heat pad you need to be able to adjust the temp, to keep the chicks happy. If it's to hot they won't want to use it.

The vertical nipples will freeze in winter, even if you heat the water. Your better option would be horizontal nipples. You can put a non floating stock tank de icer in the bucket and the horizontals will not freeze. This gives you a year round waterer.
I'm planning on draping the pad over a mesh wire tunnel and reforming the tunnel, making it taller, as the chicks grow. I'll look for the horizontal nipples, thanks!
 
I use a green recycle tub for the first 2 to 3 weeks, depending on the size of the breed. Then I move them into the coop brooder. I keep the temp at 100 degrees. If they get to hot or to cold they will get pasty butt. Clean them with warm water and feed them ground up rolled oats.
 
Temperature is another thing I'm curious about. I've seen it listed that chicks should be started out at 105 but other places say 95. Thoughts?
 
It's 95 to start, IF you use a heat lamp. I believe you were going to use a heat plate, so brooder temperature doesn't apply.
 

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