Cat/Kitten for Mouse Control

[triciayoung]

Thank you to everyone for some great advice. This is a great learning discussion for me, and I hope for others as well. Since I do not want to take a chance of jumping from the frying pan into the fire; I will dismiss the cat idea. I am learning a lot about 1/2 inch hardware cloth aprons. I really thought I was covered by making sure I had no holes and walls and apron were continuous and the apron covered with rocks. Now I am learning it only works for larger animals. I am going to have to improve my security by digging about 6-inches (mice expert recommendations) around the perimeter with hardware cloth. I am currently placing 10-traps but will increase at least by doubling. I can also improve food containment.

 

[Al Gerhart]

You are practicing the second and third steps of rodent control, exclusion and elimination but not doing the first step, sanitation.

Bulk feed in metal barrels, an actual rat proof treadle feeder using a spring loaded door to prevent mice from pushing the door open and a narrow and distant treadle, and clean up the pathways the rodents are using to get to and from the feed. The idea on the last is to expose them to natural predators while traveling. The treadle feeder does this too as they are forced to find natural food which takes more time and is very risky than eating chicken feeder in a protected chicken coop.

The bottom line is the rodents are there because you are feeding them. Stop feeding them and they have to leave. There will be times with young chicks you can't use a treadle feeder but if you never become rat infested you can probably coast through the six to ten weeks needed to get chicks to a big enough size and weight to use a treadle feeder.

 

[CreativeChicken08]

I suggest buying a bucket trap for mice. Worked well in our shop.

 

[triciayoung]

You are practicing the second and third steps of rodent control, exclusion and elimination but not doing the first step, sanitation.

Bulk feed in metal barrels, an actual rat proof treadle feeder using a spring loaded door to prevent mice from pushing the door open and a narrow and distant treadle, and clean up the pathways the rodents are using to get to and from the feed. The idea on the last is to expose them to natural predators while traveling. The treadle feeder does this too as they are forced to find natural food which takes more time and is very risky than eating chicken feeder in a protected chicken coop.

The bottom line is the rodents are there because you are feeding them. Stop feeding them and they have to leave. There will be times with young chicks you can't use a treadle feeder but if you never become rat infested you can probably coast through the six to ten weeks needed to get chicks to a big enough size and weight to use a treadle feeder.

I appreciate your post, and know I need food improvements. I do not like the treadle feeders - I have had two different types. I find them difficult to clean and a perfect breeding ground for mycotoxins. I am going to go with something homemade. I am going to use Tupperware containers elevated on feed stands that are on boot trays. Then I am going to seal shut the containers at night, clean up the spillage and then double ensure by sprinkling cayenne pepper. I will let you know if this works.

 

[triciayoung]

I suggest buying a bucket trap for mice. Worked well in our shop.

We have one bucket trap and have had no success (I think husband operator error, to be honest)

 

[AGstudy]

You are practicing the second and third steps of rodent control, exclusion and elimination but not doing the first step, sanitation.

Bulk feed in metal barrels, an actual rat proof treadle feeder using a spring loaded door to prevent mice from pushing the door open and a narrow and distant treadle, and clean up the pathways the rodents are using to get to and from the feed. The idea on the last is to expose them to natural predators while traveling. The treadle feeder does this too as they are forced to find natural food which takes more time and is very risky than eating chicken feeder in a protected chicken coop.

The bottom line is the rodents are there because you are feeding them. Stop feeding them and they have to leave. There will be times with young chicks you can't use a treadle feeder but if you never become rat infested you can probably coast through the six to ten weeks needed to get chicks to a big enough size and weight to use a treadle feeder.

It is true that food is the main attractant that first draws mice to your chicken coop. However, once a mouse has been to your coop, even if you remove all the food, they may continue to come for the following reasons: Safety from predators, water, protection from weather extremes and nesting materials.
If your coop has crevices to hide in or solid objects to tunnel beneath the mice might make your coop into a nesting area and leave the coop to find food.

Rule of thumb: if you can fit your index finger through a hole presume a mouse can get through; If you can fit your thumb through a hole presume a rat can get through.
I neglected to say in my earlier post that a small mouse can fit through a single 1/2in square in hardware cloth. I have witnessed this multiple times. Larger mice cannot do this and need 2 open 1/2in squares side by side to fit through. (1inx1/2in hole)

Also, keep in mind that mice can jump vertically 18 inches.

 

[Lukers]

So, just my 2 cents, I have grown up around barn cats, and chickens, and heres how everyone I know and how I've done it. So, start with the weaned kitten(s) and a momma gen or better yet a muscovy hen with chicks or ducklings and let the kitten live his life and if he's young enough that the prey drive isn't fully cemented, and the hen will take care of the rest. I've seen cats go kill large woodrats, mice, and gophers, and come back and totally ignore chicks, ducklings, and even wild birds because the hen broke him of it when he was young and chickens were never a prey option. I also only ever fed my cat enough to keep him from getting skinny,and he was almost dog like in that I could call him from across my 2 acres and we'd go into the chicken coop and I'd flip feeders and rocks and flood the holes, and we got into the routine, so he'd catch and eat 2 to 6 mice every night, and he lived in my feed shed and i keep my feed in metal garbage cans and the mice in there only have spilled grains to eat, and so he kerps them weeded out of there. So to summarize, cats are an effective tool when combined with trapping and proper storage of feed, and when raised properly, they are worth it.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

We have 8 cats here ranging in age from 1-3 years. We got them from my niece as 8 week old kittens. Her mother cat is a great hunter. Ours have been as well. They have mostly cleaned out the mice, and a few rats, and have continued to look for more. They are spayed and neutered and are well fed, and taken to the vet as needed for shots and care.

They have made a huge difference in the rodents around here. I've had other cats in the past, but not all will hunt so it's important to get them from known hunting parents.

Mine don't bother my chickens. I do keep chicks locked up until they are big enough to avoid looking like they might be tasty.

I read you already dismissed the cat idea, but in case you decide to get one down the road I thought I'd add my experiences.

 

[AntiqueB]

One thing I found that also helped was letting the chickens do their job. I had mice tunneling under my apron, and when a chicken saw one, the mouse would retreat to a safety hole under a stump, brick, or any other object that the mice could make a secure tunnel under. These tunnels came to 3 or 4 feet into the run itself!

Once I noticed that, I started moving things around, and collapsing tunnels. Hole under a stump? Stump gets moved to another place in the run. Once the mice had to run without cover, they stopped coming in.

I know there are some around; mice are everywhere. But they are no longer tunneling into my run.

 

[Al Gerhart]

These are some great tips for using cats. And the clean up advice, part of the Sanitation process is forcing the rodents out into the open where predators can control their numbers.

Mice might continue to stay for all of the valid reasons given but the natural food available in their territory will severely restrict their numbers and having to hustle for food while facing predators will mean that few mice can survive.

Stop feeding the rodents and they will be forced to leave.