Ceiling fan in coop

How many square feet are we talking about?

I use a solar powered vent fan in my tiny office (96 square feet) and it does a pretty good job. It has a lithium battery that charges all day and runs until the battery craps out... in the summer it seemed like it ran most of the night.

Here's the link: http://amzn.to/2iXHvKR
 
If your coop is well ventilated, there won't be major differences in positive or negative pressures created by the fan.


Actually, the problem wouldn't be pressure rather than air not moving anywhere. Inadvertently forcing air into a structure doesn't mean it will travel up to your vents, it might just swirl and force out the sides which does little for temperature removal. Using negative pressure at the top provides a flow path, but I think an even better solution to this problem is going to be a shade cloth/net.

The concern is about temperature, and a second roof (expensive option) or shade cloth would pick up some of the radiant heat from the sun before it hits the coop and keep the temperature a touch lower. Given the high humidity it won't do a whole lot when it's 98 degrees and 85% humidity.
 
Quote: Negative pressure wouldn't work either if there weren't openings in coop for 'make up air'.
Either positive or negative pressure would work about the same as far as airflow.
Negative pressure might work faster for cooling inside of coop if temp outside was significantly lower.
 
Actually, the problem wouldn't be pressure rather than air not moving anywhere.

On this forum, I believe the term "proper ventilation" defines the ability of warm moist air to naturally rise and exit the coop without placing a draft directly upon the birds.

Even a $15 bathroom fan will move about 50 CFM.

If the concern is about temperature, and If your coop was 10x10x8, or about 800 cubic feet, the fan could replace all the volume of air inside with outside air temperature, in about 16 minutes...

I had similar concerns during my summer heat spells.

My solution was to install a big window and keep it open when the conditions are a concern ( late spring through early fall
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).
 
On this forum, I believe the term "proper ventilation" defines the ability of warm moist air to naturally rise and exit the coop without placing a draft directly upon the birds.

Even a $15 bathroom fan will move about 50 CFM.

[COLOR=333333]If the concern is about temperature, and [/COLOR]If your coop was 10x10x8, or about 800 cubic feet, the fan could replace all the volume of air inside with outside air temperature, in about 16 minutes...

I had similar concerns during my summer heat spells.

My solution was to install a big window and keep it open when the conditions are a concern ( late spring through early fall :/  ).


Fans can disrupt the natural flow of things just as easily as they can enhance it. Bathroom fans use negative pressure.

A fan up high will help move the hot air much better than one down low.

The original concern seemed to be temperature during "hot, humid summers" and I'm standing by shade cloth or a second roof. While humidity holds heat in the air, it also allows for a cool breeze. However, the sunlight on the coop only adds heat to a structure filed with hot air. Single sided reflective material (think space blanket) under the roof facing upward would help keep the heat down as well, and could be flipped during the winter.

There are three types of heat transfer: conduction (physically touching an object of greater temperature), convection (heated air), and radiation. Little can be done for convection in humid air, but conduction can be reduced by reducing radiant heat from the sun, which reduces convection slightly inside as well.


Bottom line: There are so many ways to skin this cat and I'm just offering my two cents.
 
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